In this episode, I sit down with the greatest surfer of all time, Kelly Slater, to talk about the impact of plastic pollution in the ocean and the impact it's having on our surfing and surfing culture. Kelly has spent his entire life fighting against the plastics industry, the oil and gas companies, the fishing industry, and other environmental villains. He s won 11 World Championships and is a dedicated advocate for clean water and sustainable surfing. He is also a passionate advocate for the oceans, and has dedicated his life to educating the public about the dangers of plastic in the oceans and the need for a clean and safe ocean. I really enjoyed this conversation, and I hope you do too. If you like what you hear, please HIT SUBSCRIBE on Apple Podcasts and leave us a rating and a review! We ll see you in the next episode! Timestamps: 1:00 - Kelly Slater - 11th World Champion 4:30 - Plastic in the Ocean 6:20 - The impact of plastics 8:00 - The ocean is the canary in the coal mine 9:15 - Plastic pollution is ruining the oceans 11:40 - The oceans are the only place we have any chance to surf 12:20 13:30 What's the endgame? 14:40 15:15 16: How do we fix the oceans? 17:15:50 - What are we need to do about it? 18:00 | What s the future of this planet? 19: What is the end game? 21:30 | What will we have in the future? 22:00 // 21: What do we have to do? 26:40 | Why do we live on this place ? 27:50 | What are our natural order? 25:00 + 27:30 Is it possible? 30:00 Is there a better than this place? 35:00 Can we learn from nature? 32:00 Do we have a better chance of living on this planet ? 33:00 What are you going to get a better life? 36:30 Can we be more connected to the ocean? 37:00 Are we all of this place we can we be a better off? 39:00 We can we have it better than that? 40:00 How much respect for ourselves? 45:00
00:00:00.000This is Kelly Slater, my hero, who is the greatest surfer in world history.
00:00:05.000He's 11 times legitimately, 11 times world champion, and does a lot of other amazing things with his life.
00:00:11.000And really, I wanted you on here because Kelly has been in a battle for basically his entire conscious life.
00:00:19.000With a lot of the same villains that I've been fighting, the oil industry, the plastics industry, the Fanhul brothers in Florida, his home state, the big sugar industry down there.
00:00:32.000And I wanted to talk to you about all that stuff.
00:00:35.000Will you talk a little bit about the effect of clean water in the surf culture?
00:01:00.000It's an overwhelming task to even start to penetrate the pollution that's in the oceans.
00:01:06.000The ocean, 75% of the earth, 70% of the earth, we don't access more than a very small percentage of that.
00:01:13.000So the oceans are just filled with all the stuff, all the fishing debris.
00:01:19.000And, you know, the fishing topic is a whole other thing.
00:01:22.000Industrial fishing, commercial fishing is really, I would say, ruining the oceans.
00:01:28.000I don't think there's anything wrong with somebody going and catching dinner.
00:01:31.000On a line or throw on a net, but when you get into what commercial fishing is and that whole thing, that's another thing.
00:01:39.000You know, you're not going to make any friends talking about it, but it's awful.
00:01:42.000And from what I hear from fishermen, when they say dolphin safe for your tuna, that's not true.
00:01:47.000They just tag that on the, they just stamp that on their cartons.
00:01:52.000So I don't even know where to start with ocean.
00:01:56.000There's so many scary pollutants out in the world, in the air, in the water.
00:02:01.000People dump their oil and there's nothing to spill your gas.
00:02:05.000If you have a leak in a boat, you know, once you're a mile or five miles or 20 miles offshore, you can dump certain or a limited number or anything you want in the ocean because, hey, it's just going to float down to the bottom.
00:02:17.000You know, how much respect do we have for ourselves when we treat our earth that way?
00:02:24.000There's some deep-seated belief that if you can't see it, that it doesn't affect you.
00:02:29.000I think it's in the collective conscience and the psyche of everyone.
00:02:33.000Luckily, there are people like yourself and the people you work with and great people around the world who are doing their best to educate, fix those situations, put them out there in the media and let it be known.
00:02:45.000But we do have to find solutions for these things.
00:02:48.000This year was the first year I've ever surfed anywhere.
00:03:16.000We'll take a boat from Bali over to Zimbabwe or to Nusa Lumbagan or whatever.
00:03:21.000We go through the channel between those islands and We actually had to slow the boat down to an idle speed just to go through some of the garbage which lodged out together in the middle of channel, you know, 10 miles from land.
00:03:37.000And, you know, I don't know what the endgame is.
00:03:41.000I really don't know what we're going to do.
00:03:44.000All our food's filled with plastic if we're eating anything from the ocean.
00:03:49.000There's poisoning of the food and water all over the place.
00:03:53.000We're becoming so much more disconnected from nature and our natural order that it just really scares me for our kids and grandkids and the future of this planet.
00:04:05.00050 years from now, I can't imagine what it'll be like.
00:04:07.000I just can't even imagine if it keeps going this way.
00:04:10.000Why do humans have the right to just this place up so bad?
00:04:17.000I just don't, I mean, I always say, what if ants and every other creature out there and whales and, you know, lions, what if all the other creatures that live on this planet all treated this place like we do?
00:04:29.000What if they all had buildings and roads and cars, you know, relative to their size?
00:04:36.000What if all the aphids that could cover the whole United States and two or three inches of aphids every year all had some kind of infrastructure they needed to build and take over and own and We're just so disconnected and people forget we are part of nature because that's what we have become through society and through business and all this stuff.
00:05:01.000I'm a human and I travel on planes and I build surfboards and clothing and I'm a consumer of plastics and things.
00:05:11.000I do my best to limit what I have and to recycle what I can.
00:05:15.000But then you hear In Hawaii, something like 90% of the recycling ends up just going in a landfill and doesn't get recycled because they don't have the infrastructure to deal with it.
00:05:25.000I think we'd all be fine if we got rid of plastic.
00:05:27.000I don't know why you go to the store and you see a perfectly good fruit that then is also wrapped in plastic when it has a covering around it, like a banana.
00:05:36.000And there's some cellophane wrap and some foam.
00:05:45.000You know, in this country, we subsidize trash disposals, so there's no incentive for the producers to even put that garbage into the stream of commerce to remove it.
00:05:55.000In Europe, the person who puts a box into the stream of commerce, the company that does that has to show that it has reclaimed it, or it has to pay for its disposal.
00:06:08.000In our country, the taxpayer pays for it, and that's why You know, they don't really have landfills in Europe, and in our country, the fresh hills of landfill is the highest point on the East Coast of North America because it's like all the worst pollution.
00:06:23.000It's always about a subsidy, about a fat cat using political clout to escape the discipline of the free market and force the public to pay his cost of production.
00:06:35.000And, you know, it's possible if we rationalize the market to encourage people, to reward people For doing good things and punish them for doing bad things, for waste, for inefficiency, for pollution, that we could clean up the planet very quickly.
00:06:52.000But I think we need to make that happen.
00:06:55.000You know, I had a friend, she's my physio, does some massage on me and trains me in the gym, lives here in Hawaii.
00:07:05.000She moved here, she had worked with Kareem Abdul-Jabbar At the Lakers and a few people around Hollywood and lived in LA and she went, you know, the air quality is not good here.
00:07:18.000The life's not super great because all the traffic and all these people and it makes you a little bit crazy.
00:07:24.000And so she moved to Hawaii like 30 years, 25 years ago.
00:07:40.000So he mixes this, some kind of plant killer with paint thinner.
00:07:45.000He puts on a hazmat suit and goes and is spraying everything around his yard and stuff.
00:07:51.000And the wind is blowing straight into her house.
00:07:54.000She comes home and she said, she's like, Kelly, it looked like a cloud of smoke going into my house.
00:08:01.000And this guy who told me he was going to do a little spraying to kill some plants around his yard is wearing a hazmat suit with a full breather.
00:08:10.000You know, he might not know, given the benefit of the doubt, he might not have known how bad it would affect people over there, but he knew in his immediate proximity how bad it was.
00:08:20.000Her husband's dealing with cancer behind his eye that they found at like stage three or four.
00:08:27.000She had a brain fog and a brain injury.
00:08:33.000This is just one person's situation on one pollutant in one neighborhood that happened.
00:08:38.000You know, I was part of the legal team that's Monsanto, or Glyphosate, but Monsanto, and you think of Kauai as one of the most kind of pristine, you know, Eden-like place, but Kauai is the pilot testing island for all of Monsanto's pesticides.
00:08:59.000The people on that island are some of the most contaminated people in the country.
00:09:16.000You know, and even a topic like that, you know, because how many people have Roundup in their garage?
00:09:21.000I would bet half the people in America do to spray something in their yard.
00:09:26.000No one realizes the harm that can be done from these things.
00:09:30.000And then the effect on The migration of butterflies, monarch butterflies, for instance, that eat the milkweed and that's all getting sprayed on the side of the freeways and stuff.
00:09:52.000The scientists have no idea what they're going to do about Fukushima.
00:09:54.000That thing's 10 years old now, and the millions of gallons of water that are flowing full of radioactive waste into the ocean every single day.
00:10:38.000I have some friends that go across the ocean in boats, and they said that They were taking water samples every 20 miles or something, the whole length of that journey to test that.
00:10:48.000And I didn't hear the results on that, but it's obviously a concern.
00:10:52.000And you would think it would dilute as it goes out, but over an infinite amount of years, that's going to get less and less diluted and just build up in certain areas.
00:11:02.000I have a clothing company called Outer Known, and it was formed for two reasons.
00:11:07.000One was to look after the people who build our clothes and know that we're not using any kind of slave labor, that people get a fair living wage.
00:11:16.000So the social compliance was number one to me, and a close sort of second, right, with it was the environmental concerns of our supply chain.
00:11:24.000A lot of people would have no idea that in China there are literally blue rivers from the denim industry.
00:11:33.000You would know a lot more about that than I do, but I... I wouldn't let our company make denim until we could figure out a factory that could make it without polluting the waterways at all, which we found in Vietnam.
00:11:46.000And I think because of the awareness and education around it, we're seeing more and more people who are, you know, the average person, I think on some level, if it's available to them, if there's people out there making that infrastructure, they will do it.
00:12:03.000You know, if you have that recycling bin and you have that bin, well, you know, the average person, oh, that's easy enough.
00:12:09.000But we need more and more of those people.
00:12:11.000So what I did recently, I'm not saying this to try to pat myself on the back.
00:12:55.000And so the kids took it upon themselves to go and do a beach cleanup with their teacher.
00:13:01.000And now they've adopted this beach in Ocean City and somebody just donated $100 to the class the other day and the kids are all excited and proud of it.
00:13:12.000So now, like you talk about that incentivizing.
00:13:14.000And so like I think it's going to be on the people, you know, like a teacher in a class or some kid who's got a science project or something, you know, just any way where people can go, look, here's some problems.
00:13:31.000I mean, look, maybe somebody creates a crypto coin that goes crazy because people start collecting garbage and recycling.
00:13:38.000I don't know, like use technology, use foresight, use the problems, come up with solutions.
00:13:45.000So I'm really proud of this class because they just took it upon themselves.
00:13:48.000They went, you know what, we're going to go down and clean this beach up.
00:13:50.000And a bunch of them started playing music now and have bought ukuleles.
00:13:54.000And so it's really, I think, our obligation as stewards of this planet is to just have fun with it, really.
00:14:07.000It's easy to get caught up in How painful and scary and frightening this is for the future.
00:14:13.000But I think that if you can have fun with it and go, hey, let's just do this and try this.
00:14:19.000You know, now these kids are going to, you know, I would guess one or two of them is going to spend their whole life just working on a pollution problem, pollution solution.
00:14:29.000And maybe all of them are going to remember that moment when their teacher took them down the beach and they cleaned up.
00:14:34.000So I'm going to actually do another thing with them.
00:14:37.000I meant to do it this weekend, but she and I couldn't organize it.
00:14:39.000But I'm going to get back with that class and I'm going to donate a little money to them too so they can create little projects and just say, here's something where you guys go out and figure out how to use it for good.
00:14:52.000It's not like doing homework for these kids.
00:14:54.000They actually, she said that all of them have been totally engaged and really enjoyed it and been doing it in their free time and talking about it and how fun it's been.
00:15:01.000So I think it's presenting something that That is enjoyable for younger people.
00:16:35.000I've always liked math and understanding the English language and grammar.
00:16:41.000I wasn't a big history buff so much in school.
00:16:45.000I didn't love science, but those things I actually really enjoy now.
00:16:50.000I like the idea of holding two different thoughts and challenging each of them.
00:16:56.000And so by that, you generally will get people label you right away that you think something other than they do, which they believe is truth.
00:17:12.000I'm happy to be shown what the truth about something is.
00:17:16.000But I think that's learning and educating yourself.
00:17:20.000And how has that impacted you during the last year, during the pandemic?
00:17:28.000What's your life been like and what's your thinking about it like?
00:17:33.000Well, my life's kind of settled down a bit throughout this whole thing.
00:17:39.000So I've been sort of spending seasons in different places where normally I spend like 10, 12 weeks, sorry, 10 or 12 days, maybe two weeks in a certain place.
00:17:57.000I spent three months in California and then three months in Bali.
00:18:00.000And I've been in Hawaii for five months.
00:18:02.000So that's really been the whole cycle of COVID. As far as how it has shaped my thinking, there's been so many views out there on what is happening both scientifically, medically, politically, socially.
00:18:19.000It has really shown a lot of division within society.
00:18:28.000I think to a certain point, I've become almost a little bit hopeless that people can see eye to eye on things because there has been so much civil unrest around the world, but primarily in America.
00:18:44.000Everyone seems to just disagree, and their sets of facts tend to be in line with their political affiliation.
00:18:54.000So it seems harder now for people to be objective about things after the past year, if I'm just sort of looking at it from the outside.
00:20:03.000I'm kind of sitting back and watching.
00:20:06.000I think all of us are, you know, mourning that loss of social discourse of sort of civil debate of what used to happen in the public sphere.
00:20:18.000And there's increased polarization that is driven a lot, I think, by the algorithms on social media platforms, which is the way we communicate with each other.
00:20:31.000And those platforms tend to reward us for confirmation bias.
00:20:35.000For reinforcing views that people already have rather than challenging orthodoxies.
00:20:45.000You know, the first time I met you, you and me and Al Merrick all got the Waterman of the Year Award from the Surf Industry Manufacturer Association.
00:20:56.000I think it was in San Diego, although maybe it was in Santa Barbara.
00:21:15.000And then you got up there and your relationship with him was so charming and adorable and You know, the deference that you showed him and the kindness and respect.
00:21:30.000And Al Merrick, for those of you who don't know who he is, he's probably, would you say he's the best or most famous board shaper, at least in recent history.
00:21:45.000Well, yeah, I think you look at the whole history of surfing and Al is definitely at the top.
00:21:51.000His influence, both personally and professionally, on surfers throughout generations was probably unmatched.
00:21:59.000You know, he's shaped for Tom Curran, who won amateur and then professional world titles.
00:22:05.000I think Tom was probably The single most influential surfer on any generation during my lifetime.
00:22:12.000And, you know, Al was highly responsible for that and Tom lived with him.
00:22:15.000I spent periods of time living with Al myself and he shaped my boards for 20 years and most of my world title boards.
00:22:25.000And he's just a really great human, just a really wonderful person to know.
00:22:31.000What is the stamp that you've put on surfing?
00:22:34.000I don't want to talk the whole time about surfing.
00:22:36.000I actually did want to talk the whole time about surfing.
00:22:49.000Funny enough, my corporation is called Tailslide.
00:22:51.000Which my ex-stepfather named because he started my corporation for me.
00:22:56.000But when I was about 16 or so, 14 to 16, somewhere in there, we started doing what we call tail slides where you'd kind of do a carve and hit the lip of the wave, but then you'd slide the fins out.
00:23:07.000And that became kind of my signature move.
00:23:19.000First or second week of my senior year of high school and I won my first big pro event and I signed my Quicksilver contract which lasted for 20 something 24 years 23 years I signed on the beach at that contest and I we made a movie that started there and all sorts of stuff so there's a real sort of big launch pad for me but the my style of surfing that was coming in then with not just mine it was our group of guys because there's a big group of us that were surfing together and There's now a movie called The Momentum Generation that
00:23:49.000kind of outlines, documents what we were doing and our approach and our friendships.
00:23:56.000And what we were basically trying to do is jump on tour and take surfing to a different level, which was beyond just the power surfing and tube riding.
00:24:07.000It was not just on the face of a wave.
00:24:10.000It was up in the air and it was doing rotations, 360s and 360s in the air and that kind of stuff.
00:24:17.000So it was an evolutionary time in board design and the approach to surfing way.
00:24:24.000So that kind of the start of my career.
00:24:27.000I wonder why You call Tom Curran so important because he only won, I think he won two world champions.
00:24:36.000He won three world titles but I feel like Tom was kind of an underperformer and he kind of shied away from the limelight and having to focus on him.
00:24:45.000He won world titles in 85 and 86 and then had a four-year layoff and then won again in 1990.
00:24:55.000I remember he had to come back The ranks, because they wouldn't let him immediately qualify.
00:25:02.000He got wild cards in all the events, but he's the only person to ever come from the trials, the early part of the events, or the wild cards, and win a world title.
00:25:12.000So that's something that will never be matched again, I'm sure.
00:25:34.000And probably in our lifetime, or at least with the way that the tour works now.
00:25:39.000But Tom was just, he was a real blend of art and sport.
00:25:46.000And I still don't think that that's ever been sort of Perfectly matched as Tom seemed to do it.
00:25:54.000And I think Tom would probably disagree with me.
00:25:57.000You know, number one, he's a really humble guy.
00:25:59.000Number two, he's probably a little bit, you know, as many top people are in their fields, they're their own biggest critics.
00:26:07.000And, you know, Tom has said things like his surfing had an expiration date and things, you know, because surfing was changing a lot at that time, the approach to surfing, the aerials and all that kind of stuff.
00:26:19.000But I think he underperformed for his talent in a way, but at times he was completely untouchable and he had this just beautiful style and it looked like the way he rode a wave, it was like a dance and it was like a wave was meant to be ridden, like a wave traveled 5,000 miles to be ridden like Tom rode a wave.
00:26:41.000And all the kids in the 80s just tried to copy his style and surf just like him and get a Channel Islands board and I'd come to California and I'd be like, oh my God, all the kids surf like Tom Crone out here.
00:26:51.000So it was a really cool experience when I was young.
00:29:18.000The first one that became famous was a Pororoca in Brazil, in the Amazon.
00:29:24.000I actually was jumping on a flight to go there once from Australia and I pulled out because I was just, it was just too much of a mission to fly two days to get there and two days back to surf a couple days.
00:29:44.000And basically what it is is on a full or even a new moon, I believe, when you have more drastic tides and certain times of the year when the sun and moon are in the right place to create more of an effect.
00:29:59.000So it's a few days every month, but there are certain times of the year that are better.
00:30:04.000But basically when the tides are the most extreme is when the water pulls out the river.
00:30:08.000And then as the ocean starts to rush back up the river, it sends this sort of almost looks like a standing wave, but it just rolls and rolls and rolls for miles.
00:30:17.000There used to be one on the Petticoatiac River.
00:30:21.000One of our first water keepers was Petticoatiac Waterkeeper that's up in the Maritime Provinces.
00:30:30.000And it comes in, it's fed by the Bay of Fundy, which has the highest tides in the world, so it has a 50-foot tide.
00:30:38.000And it comes in like a funnel, and it creates a wave that goes 60 miles up the river, so you can literally fight it.
00:30:45.000They dammed the river back in the 70s.
00:30:50.000And one of the first huge victories we got in Canada was we got them to take down that dam.
00:30:56.000But it had changed the configuration of the river, and the river is now restoring itself.
00:31:02.000And I always told the community up there, which is a very, very tight French-Canadian community, that when the title war comes back, which they're now starting to see, that I would come up and surf with them.
00:31:42.000I have a friend up there, like a business partner friend who surfs and knows all the waves up there and stuff, and he sends me pictures of surfing a tidal bore up there.
00:31:51.000The one he surfs is not very big, but it goes for really long waves.
00:34:27.000But when we were teenagers, when I first met Jack and we His dad's best friend, who's basically become my godfather, he had this Martin guitar and he taught us all how to play guitar on that guitar.
00:34:39.000Myself and Jack and Rob Machado and a whole bunch of our friends all learned to play on that guitar that he bought for five bucks at a flea market.
00:34:46.000We used to go down to the beach and he would bring down his songbook and we'd literally make a bonfire and learn how to play like an Eagle song or a Van Morrison song or whatever.
00:34:54.000That's really how Jack got into music, but a bunch of us did too.
00:36:28.000Let me tell you the real reason that I invited you on here, because you've been promising me for many years that I could come to a surf ranch.
00:36:38.000And that will make me a hero to my kids.
00:37:38.000No one wants the thing, essentially, because there's actually a water ski lake right next to it.
00:37:45.000Literally, The two properties are side by side in the same kind of footing.
00:37:49.000And there's one there that was a viable business.
00:37:54.000And so this property was going to sit there, but it already had a house on it and some storage and some of the very few essentials that we needed.
00:38:03.000So we bought that property and then started to build.
00:38:06.000And essentially what we came up with was we have a foil.
00:38:10.000It's essentially like How would you describe it?
00:38:14.000It's the most inefficient ship hull or boat hull you can make.
00:38:18.000So, you know, a boat hull just gets to a planing as soon as possible and alleviates all that stress on the engine, right?
00:38:26.000And makes it efficient, kind of glides above the water.
00:38:29.000This thing's intended to do the opposite and to push water in an efficient way.
00:38:34.000It pushes water as efficiently as possible into a perfect line that comes off with a wave.
00:38:40.000And it was a really brilliant design developed by a guy named Adam Fincham, who was a USC professor.
00:38:46.000When this first happened, one of my partners in the business was Bob McKnight, who I think you've met Bob before, but he was the president and CEO of Quicksilver.
00:38:54.000He was a USC alumni, and he had sort of deep connections into the school through funding and stuff.
00:39:01.000And he said, why don't you go there and meet some of these professors and talk to them and So we did that.
00:39:07.000Me and my partner or two went in there.
00:39:09.000I think Noah, my manager at the wave company.
00:39:13.000And I know there's a couple of us went in and talked to these old professors there.
00:39:17.000And then Adam was the younger of the three that we talked to.
00:39:20.000And the older two kind of debated how the energy of wave gets transmitted from one thing to another or what type of wave we're looking for.
00:39:29.000And we went through this whole process of You know, do you want a Kelvin subcritical wave or do you want a critical wave?
00:39:36.000And that's all the scientific jargon for what surfers call wind swells or ground swells.
00:39:42.000The groundswell is kind of a misnomer, but the groundswell is essentially a swell that's been created far away by a lot of wind over a long period of time.
00:39:51.000And now it's gone through the ocean and groomed in these perfect lines that we call corduroy.
00:39:55.000When they get near the shore and you're up on a hill, you know, if you're in Malibu or Palisades and you look out and there's just corduroy to their eyes.
00:40:01.000And that's what we long for in surfing.
00:40:05.000But what they are is they're basically called solitons or solitary waves or in the critical realm.
00:40:13.000Those are waves that basically can travel unlimited distances and hardly lose any energy.
00:40:20.000They will lose energy because obviously the Earth's a globe and it's curved so as it goes it spreads out you know it emanates from a sort of single point and eventually the swell lines if they were left on their own to go around and around the Earth a million times that there would be no energy left in them but they run into a to land somewhere and start breaking.
00:40:44.000Adam started to work for us, but then we ran out of money.
00:40:47.000And it was sort of a godsend because he started studying and going back in the books and trying to figure out, okay, how can I describe the energy of a wave?
00:40:55.000And then how can I turn that into a mechanism of some sort or a curve?
00:41:02.000And essentially, that's what he found.
00:41:03.000There was some sort of a mathematical law which described the energy of a wave.
00:41:22.000That's a long version, but basically he made this foil that has a certain shape on the front edge of it and it pushes through the water and right off the front edge.
00:41:32.000Let's say you're looking straight down on it with a drone like this.
00:41:35.000The foil is going this way and it's pushing a swell that it looks like it's The line of the swell is coming off at a certain angle.
00:41:43.000So it sort of looks like it's going that way, but the swell is moving this way.
00:41:46.000It's moving off at an angle, sort of 45 degrees to the foil.
00:41:50.000And then we built a reef on the bottom.
00:41:51.000And when you have the wave energy, a swell line, rise up any kind of a bottom contour to it.
00:42:00.000Based on how deep the water is and the size of the swell, the amount of energy in it, at a certain depth, the wave will start to break.
00:42:06.000So the surfers kind of understand Generally, if the water's about as deep as the wave is high and it drags for a certain amount of time, it'll break.
00:42:18.000You can actually very specifically, scientifically identify what those numbers are.
00:42:24.000And I think a wave will break in water that is quite a bit deeper than the height of the wave that's going to break.
00:42:32.000But it needs to travel over a certain distance of rise first in the bottom contour in order for it to break.
00:42:39.000So this is really a long way to say we made a wave off a foil that hits a reef that we made out of cement and it barrels.
00:42:49.000I mean, all of the videos I've seen of it, it's always barreling.
00:42:54.000We generally don't show the less exciting wave, which is, we call it like a Malibu wave.
00:43:00.000It just kind of comes in and rolls and it lasts for over a minute.
00:43:04.000In fact, if you take off from the very beginning of it and ride it to the very end of the other end of the pool, which is I mean, the whole length of pool is 700 meters, but the wave doesn't, or 700 yards, but it doesn't break that whole length.
00:43:15.000It needs maybe a couple hundred yards to get going, and then it stops 100 yards before the end, but the wave will keep going after the foil stops.
00:43:24.000So that small wave, the smallest size wave will run, will break for about a minute and a half from start to finish.
00:43:31.000The bigger, more exciting wave barrels every time, pretty much, at least in one or two of the sections it does.
00:43:38.000The depth of the water changes over different parts of the reef that we built.
00:43:43.000The middle section is somewhat shallow.
00:43:46.000Both the ends are very shallow, and in between those transitions is a little bit deeper.
00:43:52.000Deeper water lets the wave be a little bit softer and mushier.
00:43:55.000It'll get a taller wave, but it won't be as hollow.