#318: Exploring Life's Trails, Literally and Metaphorically
Episode Stats
Summary
In this episode of the Art of Manliness podcast, my guest today decided to stop taking trails for granted and explore them in depth both literally and metaphorically after his own hike on the Appalachian Trail. After that hike, he decided to hike the entire Appalachian Trail after he graduated from college and why that experience led him to dive deeper into the meaning of trails.
Transcript
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brett mckay here and welcome to another edition of the art of manliness podcast well one of my
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favorite things to do in life is to find and hike a trail out in the wild somewhere my favorite
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place to hike by far vermont i love how a good trail gently leads you through nature you don't
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have to think much about where you're going so it gives you time to think about other things and
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this is great for chewing on deep issues and getting new insights but it also causes you to
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take the trail for granted for example i sometimes forget that a group of people blazed the trail i'm
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enjoying and that another group of people continues to maintain it without any fanfare my guest today
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decided to stop taking trails for granted and explore them in depth both literally and metaphorically
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after his own hike on the appalachian trail his name is robert moore and he's the author of the
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book on trails and exploration today on the show robert shares why he decided to hike the entire
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appalachian trail after he graduated from college and why that experience led him to diving deeper
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into the meaning of trails we then discuss why following a trail is so existentially satisfying
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and how trails are embedded in human thought and communication and provide us with a sense of place
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and orientation in our lives and we end our conversation talking about the idealistic origins
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of the appalachian trail the movement to extend the appalachian trail to morocco yes morocco and what a
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perpetual hiker named nimblewell nomad can teach us about the limits of freedom if you're a hiker
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you're going to love this show if you're not a hiker it's going to inspire you to find a trail this
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weekend and become one after the show is over check out the show notes at aom.is slash trails
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robert moore welcome to the show thank you so much for having me so you wrote a book on trails and
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exploration and it's all about trails and some people might hear that and think well that's kind of
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boring but you found out that there's a lot to trails and trail making and it was a fascinating
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read let's talk about the impetus behind this book it was your exploration of trails was started by your
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own hike of the appalachian trail when did you hike the appalachian trail and why did you decide you
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want to do the through hike where you'd go all the way from georgia to maine yeah so i hiked the
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appalachian trail in 2009 when i was graduated from undergrad and i i had some time before i knew i was
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going to graduate school so i had a nice little break there in my life and if you talk to through
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hikers which is what people who hiked the whole appalachian trail are called they'll often tell you
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that that they were at a sort of a gap in their life they were trying to find the next step forward
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maybe they just got divorced or they just got fired or a lot of people just come out of the military
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a lot of people have just retired and that's where i was in my life i didn't know exactly where i was
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going next i knew i was going to graduate school and so i had a good deadline i had to be back by
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september but i had nothing to do for those five months and it was something i dreamed of doing since
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i was a kid i'd grown up going to summer camp in maine and seeing these through hikers and wanting
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to emulate them and so i i saw my chance and uh i took it yeah so you were a hiker before you did
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the the appalachian trail i was yeah i was i'd done quite a bit of hiking backpacking up to that
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point but never longer than maybe a couple of weeks you know i'd certainly never gone longer than
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a month and so the idea of hiking for five months was a bit daunting but once you start doing it you
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realize it's just the same as any other hike you just have to keep going you know that's the trick
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is to keep going right what was it about your experience on the appalachian trail that led you to
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want to explore trails from a macro view yeah it's funny you say that you know the thing about it being
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boring because that's something that when i was writing this book i ran into a lot people would say
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what do you you know what's your book about and i would say i'm writing a book about trails and
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it just it'd be kind of a blank stare you know because no one has has written a book about trails
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before and the idea that they're not something we think about very much as i write in the book you
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know we kind of tend to overlook them right if a trail is doing what it's supposed to do you don't
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look at it at all it just leads you to where you need to go invisibly and you're looking up and
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you're looking out at the at the landscape but the year that i hiked the appalachian trail was a very
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rainy year uh in the the new york times called it the summer that wasn't because it just stayed cold
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and rainy the whole summer and so i had a lot of time just to stare at my boots and stare at the
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trail and think about it and you know it was by myself and as you do you start to expand upon your
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own ideas and i and i was noticing that the trail first of all was not a static thing it wasn't what i
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thought it was you you think of it almost as a paved path but it isn't because as anyone who hikes a
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hiking trail knows when people don't like the way the trail goes they take a shortcut right if if
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there's a big long switchback going down a mountain then people will just make a shortcut go where they
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want to go and that becomes the new trail and so there's a kind of liquid quality to trails that i found
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really fascinating and then as i was hiking along farther i started to realize that we weren't alone
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on this trail in fact animals were following the trail as well if you paid close attention you'd start
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to notice little hoof prints and little footprints on the trail deer bear and other animals and so
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that notion it started to crack there's cracks started to form in what my understanding of what a
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trail was and it started to widen and then i started noticing ant trails and then i started
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thinking about metaphorical trails why that phrase the trail or the path is so prevalent across languages
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across religions across cultures what is this very fundamental thing that we're all following yeah
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no let's follow that idea of paths and trails being a metaphor that we use in language because one of the
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arguments and you you make in the book is that trail making is one of the animal world's first forms of
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communication yeah i think that's that's true i mean it's really definitely one of the simplest forms of
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communication and it's a little bit complicated you know because i i went to find the oldest trails on
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earth which are in newfoundland and these fossilized trails something called ediacra biota which were
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565 million years ago and yet when i started to think about what those were they're not really
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trails because they they're they're traces you know they were left behind in the movement of these
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animals these very very early animals but unless someone else is picking them up and following them
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then it's not really a trail that was where my definition of a trail came in is is that it's in that act
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of following something someone else has left behind and then you leaving a trace in your passage that
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someone else can follow and and when you do that you set up a sort of evolutionary uh sequence that
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becomes it begins to streamline over time but if you look at it very simply that's what a trail is an
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animal has gone somewhere and left this very simple message on the ground saying hey there's something
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worth going to here you know if you stumble upon a game trail in the forest
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that's a pretty good indication that there's something there because enough animals have gone
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there and and decided that this trail is worth following for it to remain for it to perpetuate
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right so uh trails are they they externalize it's a way to externalize information in the outside it is
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yeah it's it's a way to externalize uh information it's almost an external form of memory you can almost
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look at it as an external memory when when you look at insects for example that's
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kind of how they're using trails if you look at fire ants for example they'll they'll go out from
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their nests they'll find food they'll come back and they leave a message and that that message is
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in pheromones that they're of course invisible but they can detect them very clearly and so if they
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find a big store of food they're going to go and leave a very strong trail right they're they're going
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to they get excited they leave a lot of pheromones that then sends a signal to the other ants
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that there's a lot of food there they go find the food they leave a very strong trail that that signal
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keeps amplifying until the food is gone and then they don't leave a strong trail this the trail
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begins to diminish to evaporate the signal lessens and somewhere else there's a stronger signal so the
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ants very quickly stop following that trail and start following a new trail which allows them to
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create these ever updating networks of of information that are that are incredibly intelligent and
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incredibly efficient yeah i thought it was interesting when you were describing the ant trail
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researchers which is surprising you know there's people who dedicate their lives to researching how
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ants make trails but it's really fascinating how you said that in the beginning the trails would be
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very sporadic but over time they got more and more refined and more and more straight it was sort of
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this up you know bottom up approach to uh trail making yeah it's it's a streamlining process you know
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and i think this is familiar to anyone who who does any sort of creative process you know that
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your first draft is not very good and and that's true of ants as well when they go off and they
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find a piece of food finding a way back to the nest is is difficult you know the the landscape is a chaotic
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place this is a theme that runs throughout the book is that trails are a way of managing the chaos of
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landscape and so they're trying to find their way home and they're making all sorts of errors and
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they're leaving this really wiggly really strange trail on their way back one of the anecdotes that
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i recount is is this guy richard fineman the famous physicist he did a little experiment on his own on
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his bathtub where he set a lump of sugar and he watched the first ant go off and find the lump of
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sugar and make its way back to the nest and it was making all sorts of mistakes but the second ant
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came found the same sugar and it was following the first ants trail but as it was going along it was
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making little adjustments you know it was shaving off the inside of the curves and it was cutting off
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unnecessary bends and the trail got a little bit straighter and then the third ant comes and the
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fourth ant and over time the trail gets straighter and straighter and straighter because of course
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they're trying to optimize to get home while using as little energy as possible you know minimizing
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their caloric expenditure and that's where this elegance comes from it's a really simple system but
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it's really effective and how do more complex animals make trails so the ants leave pheromones
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behind say something like buffalo or hogs or something like that how do they go about making trails is it
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is it the same sort of bottom up are they off are they a little more deliberate about it
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certainly yeah there well it's hard to you know that's that's something i i asked a lot of animal
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researchers is if animals know what a trail means you know if there's some sort of semiotic content to
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a trail for an animal meaning it when we walk through the woods and we see a trail you look at it and you
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say that's a trail that goes somewhere and i and it's unclear whether most most mammals look at a trail
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and say that's a trail or whether they just think something along the lines of there's less vegetation
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there so it's easier to walk but when it comes to the larger and smarter mammals especially elephants
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it's pretty clear that it is a a deliberative process both the making of the trails and the
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following of them when they elephants have incredibly powerful memories and incredible sense organs so
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when they go somewhere they they tend to know where they're going and they pass down their trails from
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generation to generation so once they're disrupted i've spoken with researchers of uh who study
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forest uh forest elephants and they told me that the the if you start breaking up the forest elephants
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trails through logging for example you completely disrupt their communal memory you really screw up their
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ability to find forage to find water to find mates it's that they rely upon those trails and so you know he
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compared it to imagine if you went into a major city like dresden that's been totally bombed you know
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and you grew up there and you knew you're you knew how to find your way to school but suddenly all the
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blocks have been blown apart and everything's in chaos you couldn't find your way to school anymore it'd
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be much more difficult so i think that among larger mammals it's it is a deliberative process but
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there's still a there's still something very simple about it which they they keep in common with the
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smaller insects and smaller mammals so let's talk about humans when did humans start making trails
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or do we have evidence of when humans started making trails and what do they base their those
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initial trails on yeah we don't we don't have any good archaeological evidence for when the earliest
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human trails are and part of that i found out while i was researching this book is because archaeologists
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until very recently did not study trails they studied roads and they studied other things that were made
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with your hands and there's a kind of bias for things that are made with your hands rather than things
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that are made with your feet um the many of them would not consider trails to be an archaeological
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artifact whereas if you made paving stones then that was an artifact but the the the basic way that
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trails are made i mean you know it's the same as animals but what becomes interesting with humans
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is that very early we begin weaving our trails together with our understanding of the world and so
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for example with folklore you'll find that folk tales ancient folk tales you know indigenous folk tales from
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from many places are woven together with the trails the stories will actually follow ancient pathways and
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describe things that took place along the way and so the story is pegged to certain places in the
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landscape it's it's not just an abstract idea like a girl walked through a forest and you know there was a
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big wolf following her it's a girl walked through this forest and stopped at this watering hole and picked
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this plant and all of those things tend to follow a trail because of course that's where you would that's
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that's where the people would be walking and telling these stories and that's what the the the way that
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their landscape would be stitched together as it were and so i spent a lot of time talking to people
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a lot of native american communities about their trail traditions and in fact i found a man
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in north carolina who's trying to map all of the ancient cherokee trails that existed there and one of the
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things he found is that it's woven together with their culture in a really kind of an inextricable
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way yeah that thought was interesting because i live in oklahoma so you know the western cherokees
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are here right this five civil life tribe that's right right here we're pretty much in um tulsa like
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that's like we're like in the heart of it but i thought the interesting point you made was that the
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the cherokee who still live in north carolina when they tell these stories they talk about specific
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mountains right the western cherokees in oklahoma they have those stories too but they just talk about
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kind of a general mountain or a general river yeah that's right the the stories have been have
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been cut off from the place and and one of the things that that someone told me who who studies
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these she said that you know you can hear this story there's one story in particular that she was
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talking about which was about a race between some turtles and she said you can hear that story in
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oklahoma and it's still a powerful story it still conveys a lot of information and wisdom but when you
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tell that story in north carolina and in fact you stand on the mountain that the story is describing
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you can look out across the landscape and the tops of the mountains the green tops of the mountains
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look like turtle shells and actually you can see the story taking place in the landscape and she said
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it just has so much more power there yeah and so i mean yeah it's trails then in a way situate us not
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only physically right but also existentially like it gives us a sense of meaning in our in our life
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yeah i think that's right i think i think they they give us a sense of of meaning and coherence you
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know you're the world is a confusing place and if we didn't have any trails either physical or
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metaphorical we would be just totally lost right i thought it was interesting how you talk about how
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we with the information age removing less from like a a trail-based culture because like if you
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look back if you go back what i thought was interesting you go back to the human all of like
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in america a lot of the trails and roads we have today they basically follow uh buffalo herding
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migrations that native americans followed to hunt and then when white people came here from europe
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the white people began to follow those trails that the native americans had blazed by by following
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these herds it was all this very up bottom up organic approach and even the roads we have today
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often follow these trails that began maybe millions of years ago but today we we take a much more top
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down approach to our road making or trail making how how do you think that has detached us from
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our sense of place by going from a top-down approach yeah that's that's a big question i mean that
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that that that that organic approach that you describe is you know has a lot to speak for it
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because it it it creates trails that are very um that are very elegant and very situated in the
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landscape and then when you build a culture around that it creates a culture that's also situated in
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the landscape and so we've as as everyone knows we you know we've been pulling away from that since
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at least since the era of industrialism and if not since some people would say since the era of the
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invention of of agriculture we've been changing our approach to land and and so one of the reasons why
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we make this shift in our trails why we for example build highways is because a trail evolves to suit the
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needs of the people who follow it so if you're you know if you don't need uh on a foot trail you don't
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need a whole lot a whole lot of infrastructure you don't need a whole lot of planning they can evolve
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organically and by evolving organically they they become very elegant and very beautiful
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and they they uh disappear right when you stop using them they just fade back into the landscape
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but you can't drive a semi-truck along a trail you need infrastructure you need planning and so you end up
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creating these new forms of of trail making uh that have a totally different character and and one of the
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effects of that one of the the reasons why we do it is to go faster right let's go faster to carry more
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freight and in doing that we are uh moving more and more quickly through the landscape we're not engaging
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with it in the same way anyone who's ever taken a road trip and then gone for a hike you you know you
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get out of your car and you go for a hike and you can feel your brain transform you can feel the the mode
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that you're in shift because this landscape's not sliding past you at high speed anymore you're
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actually in it in and it's all around you and you're having to navigate it in a much different
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much more intense way and of course you can imagine how much more profound that would be if you had
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been walking across that same landscape for weeks or years or generations um so i think we we
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everybody knows we're more cut off from the natural world than we used to be that's that's a very
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common um trope i think in in nature writing and but i think that the one of the ways that that's
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happening that we don't think about very often is the way that we move through the world whether
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we're walking on trails or we're walking driving on highways or riding on a shinkansen bullet train through
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japan yeah that when you were talking about the highways it made me think if you've seen cars
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right the disney pixar movie i have not no oh there's this like scene that's like it gets you
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in the fields every time you watch it so like there's like this little town called radiator springs
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in the middle of the desert and route 66 like ran through it and like route 66 if you've been on
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route 66 it's very curvy and it goes through the landscape and it's it's it's a nice drive but then i-40
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is built and it bypasses radiator springs and the no one comes to visit radiator springs anymore
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it's all sad it reminds me of that that's true yeah i was just out on route 66 actually in new
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mexico and you do see that that whole towns will dry up or they'll migrate to follow those yeah those
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gigantic trails yeah well let's talk about like walking on a trail i love trail hiking because
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it's just so soothing right like when i get on the trail it doesn't matter what trail it is
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i just feel great uh what's going on there is it because i'm in nature or is there something more
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going on because i'm on a trail yeah there's a lot going on there the the the first thing is that
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walking on a trail is i think it is kind of existentially soothing and the best way to
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understand that is to go off the trail every once in a while right to go on a hike for two or three days
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where you don't walk on a trail and that's depending on the landscape it can be easier it can be very
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difficult out west it's a lot easier in the desert you can do it i've you know i've been on hikes in
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new mexico and wyoming and and montana that that are okay uh off trail but if you try to do it in
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the east where there's a lot more vegetation it it gets tough really quick and actually that's true
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here where i live as well i live in the pacific northwest and if you have a really heavily forested
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area uh man you as soon as you go off trail you're you're wishing for that trail again i went
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for a hike in newfoundland that i described in the book uh where i was fighting my way through
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these these stunted trees for hours and hours on end and when i finally found my way back to the trail
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after this three-day hike that just took everything i had uh i was you know i wanted to weep for joy
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because you start following the trail and all that weight of not just having to fight your way
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through the vegetation but worrying am i lost am i am i going to die out here you know there's this
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real dread and this fear that follows you when you go off trail because you don't have that assurance
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all of a sudden and so the trail allows you it just lifts that weight from you and it allows you to go
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into a more i think just a more peaceful meditative mode of walking than this very heightened fight
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your flight awareness that you have when you're off trail yeah and i love the other thing i love
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about trail make or the following in trails like the decision's already been made for me right like
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i don't have to make the decision of where i'm going yeah i just follow the trail and i i think in
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our culture that really puts a premium on choice like man choice is exhausting and like sometimes i
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just want to be told what to do and where to go yeah this is a dichotomy that would really serve
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everyone well to think a lot about because you're right we grow up in as kids in america you grow up
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with this this this belief that the pathfinder and the trailblazer is heroic and everyone else are just
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kind of sheep you know they're just lemmings and and there's a real shame attached to that and so
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whatever field you're in for example in the field of writing i always put this enormous premium on myself
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as a college student you know as a high school student to try and do everything completely
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originally i i would not read the old classics because i thought that's already been done you
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know i need to be a trailblazer and that's actually too much pressure to put on yourself unless you're
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someone who is a complete genius you know just a a sweet generous talent um comes along once in a
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generation it's it's overwhelming it's like fighting your way through this tangled wilderness and in fact
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once you find a trail what you find is by following it you know by following the tradition by following
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the wisdom of people who've come before you you're not just following you're also creating right because
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every person who follows a trail changes that trail a little bit and so that can be a very very
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productive way of doing things but then also you have to keep in mind that some trails become ruts
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right sometimes the trail degrades because too many people have followed it and it's not useful
00:25:05.980
anymore and so you you do have to break off into the into the weeds of life every once in a while
00:25:11.720
and try and blaze something new right yeah i love that idea of not disparaging if you're just following
00:25:17.340
a trail like i remember we go to vermont my family goes to vermont every summer the appalachian trail
00:25:21.980
goes through that actually we'll talk about that how the long trail in vermont was sort of the
00:25:26.020
impetus of the appalachian trail um but i remember think when i was on a trail um hiking thinking boy
00:25:33.080
i'm really grateful for the people who come and maintain this trail like if it weren't for these
00:25:37.100
folks like yeah i wouldn't be able to enjoy this thing and i'm glad they're there and they're sort of
00:25:42.200
the unsung heroes of of trails yeah i'm really glad that you had that realization because most people
00:25:48.960
don't most people don't even think about trail makers at all and that's something that on the
00:25:54.400
appalachian trail there's a little festival in the middle of it called trail days for hikers they
00:25:59.740
all get together in this town in virginia and they you know have a big bonfire and party and get to
00:26:05.340
meet one another right because you're all strung out along the trail and you're this community but
00:26:09.360
you never really meet each other and one of the things they do is just after that you get together
00:26:14.560
and all the hikers will go volunteer with this incredible old guy named bob peoples and they'll go do a
00:26:21.300
weekend of trail building and it's your way of kind of paying back the good karma that's been
00:26:25.980
paid to you by all these trail makers and one of the things that you realize is that most through
00:26:32.160
hikers don't think haven't even thought about the fact that someone made this and if they have
00:26:37.220
the only thing they've been focusing on is wow the guy who made this did a really crappy job you know
00:26:42.280
the person who did this didn't build a good bridge for me or didn't uh you know just took me out of
00:26:46.920
my way you start to get this very begrudging weird mindset when you're a through hiker because
00:26:53.240
you're trying to cover so many miles each day that you don't want to screw around you don't want to
00:26:59.280
have to go in the wrong direction so oftentimes you'll find the trail journals which are these
00:27:03.360
journals that people leave in uh the the shelters along the way and they're sort of communal journals
00:27:08.920
people will write in they'll just complain about the quality of the trail but when you get out there
00:27:13.560
and you start building it yourself and you realize that every inch of this trail that stretches from
00:27:19.280
georgia to maine has been built with someone's hands not with power tools most of the time with
00:27:24.280
with hand tools by volunteers you really realize what a what a beautiful incredible thing that is that
00:27:31.440
that people have put all that time and energy into building this thing for for nothing for no profit
00:27:36.540
uh just for you know just for the sake of it these trail makers like what did you discover like
00:27:42.360
what makes for a good trail and for someone who has walked the appalachian trail and lots of trails
00:27:47.180
what do you think makes for a good trail it's a very complicated process building a good trail
00:27:52.620
because you have to it's a kind of uh it's almost like predicting the future you need to guess where
00:27:59.780
people are going to want to walk right because trails are an expression of desire so if you build a bad
00:28:06.240
trail people are going to go off trail they're going to go wherever they want and one of the really
00:28:10.640
funny things is to see how trail makers fight with hikers right one of the guys i talked to
00:28:18.280
works at the atc told me you know this whole hiker management thing would be a whole lot easier
00:28:23.640
without the hikers and what he means by hiker management is that hikers don't always follow the
00:28:28.880
trail as we've said so sometimes to stop them they'll do things like install jagged rocks on the side
00:28:35.540
of the trail they call those gargoyles or they'll dump a big load of of branches or sometimes one guy
00:28:41.640
i read said he would dump a bunch of poison oak leaves on a side trail that people were trying
00:28:47.480
to take to get them to stop going you know you want the people to go where you want them to go
00:28:52.700
and the reason why is that a hiking trail doesn't just have to be efficient doesn't doesn't just have
00:29:01.380
to get you from point a to point b and in this way it's a hiking trail is totally different from
00:29:05.600
any trail that exists on earth because a hiking trails its impetus is to be sustainable it's to
00:29:13.780
shed water efficiently it's to not destroy a whole lot of sensitive vegetation so they take on these
00:29:20.300
really screwy shapes and when we're walking a trail you can feel that that's why we make those
00:29:25.340
shortcuts is because you there's a very deep animal part of you that says this isn't right this isn't the
00:29:30.540
most elegant way to get up or down this mountain i want to go where i want to go and so the the task
00:29:37.940
of a trail builder and this is something else i think is a really powerful metaphor for anyone who
00:29:43.800
works in in you know a field where you have to deal with people but especially people who work in the
00:29:48.740
world of sustainability the job of a trail builder is to get the hiker to go where the hiker should go
00:29:55.600
based on everyone's communal best interest rather than where the hiker naturally wants to go based
00:30:01.400
on their own self-interest and that's a really tricky task the best the best hike the best trail
00:30:07.780
builders that i've met the real master trail builders do it in such a way that they make the
00:30:14.060
hiker want to stay on the trail because the trail is so beautiful that they don't want to get off the
00:30:19.220
trail you know they're enjoying it so much so for example if there's a waterfall that you can hear
00:30:24.860
you have to make the trail go to that waterfall because if you don't people are just going to go
00:30:29.140
there anyway the best trail builders know that and they they use your desire as a hiker rather than
00:30:36.940
trying to thwart your desire right so again the idea of trail trail making as communication is being
00:30:42.960
displayed right here yeah it's it's a kind of communication it's a kind of it's almost a kind of
00:30:47.460
narrative i mean it's it's it's a little bit profound if you think about it as a trail builder
00:30:53.320
what you're doing is you're building an experience for another person yeah and i thought was also
00:30:59.580
interesting about the book is that this idea of like hiking right it's a new idea like people if you
00:31:06.660
think about it yeah people in the 1600s probably didn't like would even imagine like i'm gonna hike
00:31:14.160
from georgia to maine like that wasn't like or i'm just gonna go out into the wilderness to be out
00:31:18.460
in the wilderness that wasn't their thing when did like being out in the wilderness and going hiking as
00:31:23.180
a as an as a pleasurable activity something you would do just to pass the time when did that become a
00:31:27.960
thing yeah this this is this is something that anyone who's gone hiking in another country
00:31:33.800
probably realized because not only is hiking a very modern thing it's a very western thing it's a very
00:31:39.760
european and north american thing you know when i i went on a hike in tanzania once and the maasai
00:31:46.440
tribesmen that i met told me that they refer to hikers or as westerners you know who most of them
00:31:52.240
they see are hiking as people with heavy luggage looking for problems you know because they would
00:31:58.420
see these people walking along with these giant bags on their back and there would be a big mountain
00:32:03.580
and there'd be a trail going around to the left and trail going around it to the right and they would
00:32:07.720
walk straight up the mountain and and that was just kind of hilarious right why what is wrong with
00:32:12.560
these people that they take the path of most resistance all the time so so it is kind of absurd
00:32:18.360
i mean before the the beginning of the romantic era when when we began to appreciate mountains
00:32:24.820
as these beautiful things as these sublime things before that they were ugly people referred to them as
00:32:30.400
pustules you know they were and they were dangerous and and the reason for that is largely because
00:32:35.140
they had no value they had no economic value you couldn't grow crops there you know it was dangerous
00:32:41.320
unless there were minerals to be gotten why would you go there you know and also many people believed
00:32:47.780
and many cultures believed that it was the abode of spirits right that was where uh the storm god lived
00:32:53.940
so if you go there you're you're tempting fate and so that changes around the time when you start
00:33:00.280
seeing this shift in culture that we were talking about before when you with the rise of industrialism
00:33:05.540
and the rise of urbanism suddenly people need to get out of cities they need to get out of their life
00:33:11.680
as it is and get into something that feels to them a little bit wilder a little bit more natural
00:33:17.660
and you start seeing this rise in poetry and painting in in various art forms describing these wild
00:33:25.100
mountains and these forests as beautiful and with that comes the beginning of hiking and hiking has
00:33:31.980
gone through a number of phases throughout the years you know it was not always what it is currently
00:33:37.160
at one point hiking meant you'd go off into the woods and you'd cut down a bunch of trees and build
00:33:42.300
yourself a little shelter for the night you know that that was the style of hiking was very high
00:33:46.480
impact but in some ways it was more you might say more natural than sleeping in a you know in a nylon tent
00:33:52.400
and so the the current mode that we have of hiking is really funny because we think of it as going
00:33:58.900
back to nature when in fact it's this very modern very unnatural thing to do which is not to say it's
00:34:06.320
not worth doing i still love it but you know you sort of have to understand what it is right so the
00:34:11.140
wilderness would not be possible without civilization like it could not exist like you need one it does
00:34:16.420
not exist i mean yeah it's it's a it's not the concept doesn't make sense without without a fence
00:34:22.960
unless you have a farm and a fence around it then what's outside is not wilderness it's just the world
00:34:29.060
you know there there's no concept of it well let's talk about the appalachian trail because this is the
00:34:34.220
whole thing that kicked off your exploration and what's funny is for some reason i assumed that the
00:34:38.860
appalachian trail had been around for hundreds of years that it was some sort of native american route that
00:34:44.340
you know went from georgia to maine and then white people used it for transportation but that's not
00:34:49.640
the case actually didn't start until the 20th century so who was the who had the idea of create
00:34:55.940
this long continental through trail from georgia to maine yeah yeah i mean you're right in that there
00:35:02.220
were trade routes up running up and down the atlantic coast but they would never have gone the way the
00:35:07.080
appalachian trail does as we said because it goes over all these mountaintops it would be much too slow
00:35:11.380
so the first person to make that realization is a guy named benton mckay and the story he tells
00:35:18.040
is that he was in the around 1900 maybe 1902 he was sitting on top of a tree on stratton mountain in
00:35:26.240
vermont and he was looking out over the appalachian mountains going south and he suddenly had this
00:35:32.460
epiphany where he realized that actually the same mountain chain runs all the way to georgia
00:35:36.500
and he thought you know how incredible would it be to have a trail connecting a hiking trail
00:35:42.280
connecting all of these mountains and this was during an era of kind of feverish uh trail building
00:35:47.960
and and he had been on that very hike you know following logging roads following hiking trails kind
00:35:53.880
of stitching together the existing trails that's what he realized that was his real genius was that
00:35:58.940
you wouldn't have to build 2 000 miles of trails you just had to connect the ones that were already
00:36:04.440
there and give it a name and give it a story and give it a mythology and that would be enough
00:36:10.060
to build this thing but in the meantime you know he didn't he that was in his 20s took him another
00:36:16.240
20 years to even get the proposal together he went off and did other things and in the meantime one of
00:36:22.140
the things that springs up as you mentioned earlier is the long trail which runs the length of vermont
00:36:28.260
and that was the first real through through trail you know it's it's it's not nearly the length of the
00:36:34.900
appalachian trail but it starts getting people in the mindset of walking these long distances because
00:36:41.000
previously what you would do is you go to uh these for example you go to these grand mountain hotels in
00:36:46.960
the late 1800s you'd stay in the hotel in in a valley in the in the cat skills or the adirondacks and
00:36:53.120
you go on hikes along the trail network but you wouldn't hike for days and weeks on end in one
00:36:59.340
direction that was kind of an odd idea and in fact it's not really even possible before the invention
00:37:05.160
of the automobile the automobile and the appalachian trail are are intertwined in a really funny way
00:37:11.400
because the the automobile allows you to get out to the mountains and allows you to hitchhike back
00:37:16.860
but it also makes urban spaces so chaotic and so polluted that more people want to get out into
00:37:24.040
the mountains so the history of backpacking you can't tell without telling the history of cars as
00:37:28.960
well but finally benton mckay comes back to this idea the appalachian trail that's been growing in
00:37:34.640
his mind all this time and by the time he comes back to it he's spent a long time in the world of
00:37:40.820
landscape architecture he called it geotechnics you know planning on a large scale and he had all
00:37:48.160
these grand dreams that had grown up around the appalachian trail he wanted it to be a kind of
00:37:52.980
socialist communal space where people would escape from the urban centers of the united states that
00:37:59.680
which ran up and down the atlantic coast predominantly at that time get out of there go to the woods go work
00:38:05.940
on communal farms go hiking he wanted to have sanitariums massive sanitariums for people suffering
00:38:12.060
from depression and various mental illnesses and it was going to be this this beautiful commune in the
00:38:19.200
mountains and so he proposed it to people and what resonated with people was the idea of the hiking
00:38:24.680
trail the rest of the stuff didn't really click and so over time the trail idea got more and more
00:38:31.220
support and everything else kind of fell away again got streamlined away and what was left with
00:38:36.660
was what he had originally which is a trail going from georgia to maine yeah i thought it was interesting
00:38:42.460
like he uh kind of this was all happening this cultural background that was happening in america
00:38:46.920
at that time sort of this revolt against modernity yeah right that industrialization is bad this is like
00:38:52.700
when boy scouts started getting going the ymca the strenuous life teddy roosevelt's strenuous life
00:38:59.180
i think even makai said something about like creating new barbarians or something like that
00:39:04.320
that was like a thing he wanted to do with the appalachian trail that's right yeah he there was
00:39:08.700
a feeling that he he called people who lived in cities civilizees and and he wanted to have a revolt
00:39:15.020
against the civilizees he felt people were becoming over civilized and you know since this is the the art
00:39:20.920
of manliness podcast it's worth talking about the fact that it was actually quite a a gendered understanding
00:39:26.740
of uh what the problem was they felt that boys were becoming weak you know they were living in cities
00:39:32.860
and they were getting too pampered and their hands were getting soft and they were getting sick too
00:39:37.700
much and they wanted to toughen them up and so what you see are these places springing up tons and tons
00:39:43.940
of summer camps devoted to the strenuous life you know and devoted to swimming in cold water and hiking
00:39:50.060
big mountains and you know all of these things to toughen these kids up and to get them out of this
00:39:56.020
urban environment that was seen as corrupting and that's actually the summer camp that i went to
00:40:01.880
was a place that was founded in 1902 it's a little camp called pine island and it really hasn't changed
00:40:07.340
much since then it was you know they still use kerosene lanterns there's no there's no electricity
00:40:12.220
there's no running water you're still you know bathed in the lake and so i i had a weird kind of
00:40:18.640
instinctual understanding of this because i it was almost like i went in a time machine every summer
00:40:23.340
and that's really where the appalachian trail springs out of that sense of old timely old
00:40:30.560
timey uh masculinity tied in with wilderness that those two things needed one another in a certain
00:40:38.900
way right right but that that that connection couldn't exist with again without civilization
00:40:43.880
that's the irony and yeah people wouldn't be going out there right they wouldn't have the reason to go
00:40:49.900
out there unless civilization had become what it had become yeah right okay so uh what i thought was
00:40:57.860
really interesting and kind of preposterous is this idea that people are trying to do with the
00:41:02.380
international appalachian trail so this is the idea that the appalachian trail currently goes from
00:41:08.380
georgia to maine there was a movement saying well part of the appalachian mountains goes to canada
00:41:13.640
okay that makes sense but now there's like folks who are like well it goes all the way to morocco actually
00:41:19.280
yeah so he tells us about this movement and do you think it's going to be ultimately successful
00:41:24.080
yeah so that it starts with a guy named dick anderson uh who's a real character he lives up in
00:41:30.440
maine and and the story he told me was that he was driving along the highway one day and he said
00:41:35.420
you know he was driving up i-95 i think and he's heading towards the canadian border and he realizes
00:41:41.780
that the appalachians of course don't stop at the border even though the road stops the mountains
00:41:47.120
keep going and and he's a he's a guy who who'd worked in a variety of fields you know land
00:41:53.260
management for a long time so he he knew his geology he knew that the appalachians kept going
00:41:57.760
up through quebec and actually up to the northern tip of newfoundland he thought why doesn't the
00:42:02.980
appalachian trail keep going you know who cares about the border so he started a project to continue
00:42:08.580
the appalachian trail up to newfoundland it then becomes called the international appalachian trail
00:42:14.660
because there's a bit of a there's a bit of a rivalry or a bit of an enmity between the
00:42:23.860
canadian faction and the american faction and you know the people who are invested their life's work
00:42:29.100
in the appalachian trail want it to end in maine they don't want it to keep going forever but this
00:42:35.200
this new trail started getting built people in in quebec and new brunswick and newfoundland they all
00:42:41.340
were on board with it and so they extend the trail up to the northern tip of newfoundland but as
00:42:45.780
they're doing this dick anderson's friends are coming to him and saying well you know if you
00:42:50.400
really want to be strict about it the appalachian geology continues throughout europe because when
00:42:57.600
there was a pangea when there's a megacontinent that was one mountain range right it was actually
00:43:02.400
it kind of split if you imagine a piece of paper that's been folded and then it's been
00:43:06.900
torn in half that's what happened to uh north america europe and north africa when the megacontinence
00:43:14.460
split apart that the appalachian trail was the seam along which we split apart so the other half of
00:43:20.620
the appalachian trail as it were is across the atlantic and so he started thinking about that and he said
00:43:27.280
well yeah why not why not can build it's the international appalachian trail already we've already
00:43:32.140
gone to canada why not go to greenland and then down through western europe to north africa so we
00:43:38.280
started reaching out to other trail clubs there and just like benton mckay he realized you wouldn't
00:43:43.240
have to build a whole lot of trail you just have to connect the trails that are already existing and
00:43:48.680
people just kept jumping on board he said it was surprisingly easy and so he has trail clubs now in
00:43:55.800
most of the countries i think almost all of the countries that he needs to build this incredible
00:44:01.740
15 000 mile weird post-modern discontinuous trail called the appalachian trail right but can you
00:44:10.400
like yeah that begs the question like can you really call a trail a trail if there's like these gaps
00:44:14.640
right like you have to get on a boat or an airplane it's it's it's a really it's it's a new
00:44:20.440
conception of what a trail is i don't know people always say well how is a trail if you can't walk
00:44:24.920
there right are you gonna walk are you gonna walk on water are you gonna get on a on a ferry and
00:44:29.080
walk in circles you know how are you but that's for him it's not about walking uh it's about
00:44:35.980
it's about the the the line it's basically a line on a map and that's why i call it post-modern is
00:44:43.220
it's more about this this sort of text and the idea than it is about the physical structure i don't know
00:44:48.780
i mean i think it's it's a worthwhile project in the sense that it will connect all these countries
00:44:54.960
together and make them work together and create something people can walk a line people can follow
00:45:00.980
because you know the appalachian trail no one really walks it continuously anyway right you you go and
00:45:07.660
you you hitchhike into town once every five days you come back some people skip portions or they do it
00:45:13.820
over the course of years the shape of the appalachian trail changes every year i mean you can't really be
00:45:19.760
a purist about this stuff because as i said before trail is is much more liquid than we think
00:45:26.260
it is so once you start messing with the definition of what a trail is it's not such a leap to say that
00:45:33.580
this is one trail it's just you know got some pretty sizable gaps in the middle of it yeah well in your
00:45:41.180
epilogue it was one of my favorite parts because you you follow this guy nimble well nomad this guy who
00:45:46.860
he's like forest gum just decided to start walking one day and he's been walking ever since
00:45:51.340
but you tell us about him like what insights about nature and trails that we can gleam from his approach
00:45:59.260
to hiking yeah nimble well was a guy i wanted to talk to because i i i kept thinking about when i came
00:46:07.260
back from the appalachian trail what it what would have happened if i had kept hiking you know the one of
00:46:14.560
the things that people don't tell you very often is that you you go on these long hikes thinking
00:46:20.640
they're going to be transformative and they are you you are transformed right your body completely
00:46:26.180
changes your mind changes you you lose weight you lose the sort of all of your stress and your thinking
00:46:33.080
becomes clear and you're happier but then when you come home you transform back right because we're all
00:46:39.640
just in large part creatures of our environment you adapt to your environment so if you go back to
00:46:44.760
the same old environment you're going to become basically the same old person so i thought well
00:46:49.760
maybe if i want to keep that mental clarity and that happiness and and that fitness i should have just
00:46:55.460
kept hiking forever and so i looked around and said well who's someone who did that is there anyone
00:47:00.400
out there who kind of never stopped hiking and there are there are people here and there there's a guy
00:47:06.900
named billy goat who hikes the pacific crest trail every year and and there's uh some people who hike
00:47:12.680
the appalachian trail almost every year but the person who i found most fascinating was a guy named nimble
00:47:17.700
will nomad because he had just taken it to such an extreme you know people would tell me stories about
00:47:23.420
him they say oh he had all of his toenails surgically removed because he kept getting fungal infections or
00:47:28.680
he he only you know he only has this backpack with like 10 pounds of gear in it he doesn't own
00:47:34.640
anything else that's that's all he owns and and so i i looked around for him and i found him online
00:47:40.240
and i wrote to him and he kind of you know told me to screw off he didn't want to meet me but i said
00:47:46.540
no i really i you know i'm just i'm fascinated by you i i have to you know have to meet you so i wrote
00:47:52.680
to him and wrote to him wrote to him over i think it was years i think it may have been two years i wrote
00:47:56.740
to him finally he begrudgingly said okay fine you can come i'm going to be walking down this stretch
00:48:03.020
of highway in texas on this day and if you can find me you can walk with me so i flew down to
00:48:09.480
my sister's place in houston and we drove out on the highway on that day and there he was walking
00:48:14.640
down the side of the road so i pulled over and we gave him some ice cream and he said uh well you
00:48:20.700
found me you know so i got out and for three days we walked together and and i got to see during those
00:48:26.580
three days really what it means to to hone your life down to that single point of interest right
00:48:33.620
to live a life of of true simplicity of the way that we oftentimes romanticize but the reality of
00:48:40.800
it you know is not always as pretty as as you would want you know he he lives a pretty rough life he does
00:48:48.100
not have a whole lot of comforts in his life and he's a guy who's when i think when i met him he was
00:48:53.280
75 74 75 so he's sleeping on the hard ground every night you know he doesn't carry a he doesn't
00:49:01.620
carry a toothbrush so he just has a toothpick so i don't you know he's he's i'm not i'm not sure how
00:49:06.860
good his dental hygiene is but i know his doesn't carry toilet paper right he just uses like water he
00:49:13.420
he has just his life is very rough in a lot of ways and he has no safety net at all you know if he gets
00:49:20.660
sick or something happens to him out there he's probably gonna just die and he's fine with that
00:49:25.860
he said i'm you know my my grandfather died in the woods and my dad died in the woods and i'm working
00:49:31.220
on it he he really has gotten rid of his fear of death in a way that i find admirable but in other
00:49:37.080
ways you know his life is not something i'd want to emulate he he kind of just skims across the surface
00:49:44.080
of a lot of things his relationships with people are very thin he he he only talks to people for a
00:49:50.100
day or two and then he moves on you know and he doesn't have those deep connections those deep
00:49:55.580
rooted connections with the community that a lot of us need to feel a sense of belonging and purpose in
00:50:02.740
our lives he's he's totally free and being free is not a completely positive thing it's it's actually
00:50:10.920
quite a complicated thing right well being free isn't like you there's constraints right you have
00:50:16.840
yeah yeah there are constraints to his freedom as well there's there's always sacrifices you have to
00:50:22.660
make and i thought was interesting too is that his approach to nature you know we were talking earlier
00:50:27.820
about this dichotomy there's like there's civilization sort of man-made stuff and then there's
00:50:32.420
nature which is sort of this untouched by man but it seems like nimblewell sees things as just
00:50:38.760
part of like it's the world like everything like even the man-made stuff is part of nature
00:50:42.440
and doesn't bother him that he he'll follow a road and he has no problem with that um a lot of purists
00:50:49.140
were like well no you need to go out into the woods but he's like no it's a trail i'm going to follow it
00:50:52.460
yeah he doesn't draw that distinction at all and i thought that was really fascinating he that's actually
00:50:58.180
quite a that's a debate that's been going on they call it the great new wilderness debate is you know
00:51:03.840
the in the 1980s people like william cronin started deconstructing our understanding of
00:51:08.860
what wilderness is and what nature is and saying these are these are concepts these are historical
00:51:14.220
and cultural concepts that you know are not necessarily real these are things we've these
00:51:20.020
are sort of useful fictions and he's someone who's come to that without any academic background
00:51:26.240
and he just has come to that conclusion through his living he says you know if you got to go up onto
00:51:31.220
some big mountain in washington in order to feel happy and feel at peace then you've missed the
00:51:36.440
you missed the point entirely you got to be down there on the city streets seeing it the same way
00:51:41.500
you have to come to every aspect of your life with that same appreciation that most of us have when
00:51:47.880
we're in the wilderness he doesn't see it he doesn't see a distinction he walks out of the wilderness
00:51:51.860
he walks onto a highway he walks into a shopping mall and he's looking at it all as natural things
00:51:57.320
right because people are are natural humans are natural animals as well we're all everything in a
00:52:02.560
sense is natural to him and so he's outlook on life is really beautiful in that way but also uh
00:52:09.680
you know he it's funny because certain things don't bother him as much as i think they should you know
00:52:16.900
he he's not terribly bothered by pollution one day we were we we stopped to fill up our bottles with
00:52:22.760
water and this it was in the town of port arthur texas which is a oil refinery town and the water
00:52:28.180
just smelled foul it smelled like like kerosene and i was outraged you know i said these people's
00:52:33.420
groundwater is poison and he's like yeah that happens around here you know and and just sort of shrugged
00:52:39.300
it off and we got into this big argument about pollution and environmental regulation and climate change
00:52:44.220
and he you know for a guy who spends all his time outdoors and he's he's really uh quite a i mean he's he's
00:52:51.760
pretty far right when it comes to a lot of those issues and that a lot of that springs from the
00:52:56.920
factory says well lou you know this is that's the world we live in it's you know what are we going to
00:53:01.560
do so are we going to go back to the days of of you know the the wagon and you know plowing a field
00:53:07.360
with an ox if not then you have to come to grips with that which is you know that's that's a tough
00:53:12.480
stance to take and it's not something i agree with but he that that complex outlook on on wilderness
00:53:20.640
and on nature is something that i've found really useful to have to grapple with right yeah for him
00:53:26.640
the oil refinery is just like a volcano yeah it's just yeah yeah or it's or you know or or maybe it's
00:53:32.500
like how you look at a you know i don't know a castle or something in another country because when you
00:53:38.680
do take that step back and you just appreciate it for what it is an oil refinery is kind of beautiful
00:53:45.520
you know it's industry can be can be beautiful and and you know it's also kind of monstrous in
00:53:52.600
in the same way that a that a castle or a volcano can be monstrous well robert this has been a great
00:53:58.280
conversation there's a lot more we could talk about so i encourage people to go get your book where can
00:54:02.680
people learn more about your work well there's a couple places you can go on my website robertmoore.com
00:54:07.980
i don't update it very often of course i've got a twitter feed but you know most importantly i'd say go out
00:54:13.260
and buy the book right right now is a really good time the paperback comes out july 4th so i think a
00:54:19.460
lot of places have the hardcover on sale and the hardcover is a really beautiful object you know the
00:54:24.700
the the book as an object is something i care a lot about and the people at simon and schuster did an
00:54:30.260
incredible job it won the or was listed as one of the top 10 book covers of the year by the new york
00:54:36.440
times so it's just this beautiful beautiful object so i'd say go out find the hardcover start there
00:54:41.200
awesome well robert moore thank you so much for your time it's been a pleasure thank you this has
00:54:44.800
been great my guest today was robert moore he's the author of the book on trails it's now available
00:54:49.360
in paperback on amazon.com so go check it out get that it's a really great book great summertime read
00:54:54.500
you can also find out more information about his work at robert moore.com that's m-o-o-r.com no e at
00:54:59.540
the end also check out our show notes at aom.is slash trails where you can find links to resources
00:55:04.080
where you can delve deeper into this topic well that wraps up another edition of the art of
00:55:20.440
manliness podcast for more manly tips and advice make sure to check out the art of manliness website
00:55:24.280
at artofmanliness.com if you enjoy this show i've got something out of it i'd appreciate it if you
00:55:28.140
give us review on itunes or stitcher that helps us out a lot as always thank you for your continued
00:55:32.000
support and until next time this is brett mckay telling you to stay madly