#473: The Solitude of a Fire Watcher
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Summary
During the dry summer months, wildfires pose a serious threat to the U.S. Forest Service s efforts to fight them. As soon as they start, the agency relies on fire towers spread throughout the area that are each manned by a lone individual. My guest today wrote a memoir about the unique experience this job offers. His name is Philip Connors. He s a writer, one of the country s few remaining fire watchers. Today, on the show, we discuss what the life of a fire watcher is like and what it s taught him about nature, solitude, and time along the way.
Transcript
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brett mckay here and welcome to another edition of the art of manliness podcast the gila national
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forest covers about 3.3 million acres in southwest new mexico during the dry summer season wildfires
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pose a serious threat to that area to spot wildfires in this vast landscape as soon as
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they start the u.s forest service relies on fire towers spread throughout the area that are each
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manned by a lone individual my guest today wrote a memoir about the unique experience this job
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offers his name is philip connors he's a writer one of the country's few remaining fire watchers
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today on the show we discuss what the life of a fire watcher is like and what it's taught him
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about nature solitude and time along the way philip describes the virtues of listening to baseball
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games by radio and the value of slowing down in an increasingly rushed world after the show's over
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check out our show notes at aom.is fire watch philip joins me now via clearcast.io
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here you go philip connors welcome to the show thanks it's great to be with you so you're a writer
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but you found yourself in an interesting seasonal career as well a couple years ago as a fire watcher
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on a fire tower in the gila national you know wilderness area in new mexico before we get to
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your experience i don't think a lot of people know about fire towers in america and like what they do
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so can you give us like a kind of a history of a brief history of fire towers in the american west
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yeah they really took off as a phenomenon early in the 20th century with the advent of the u.s forest
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service and there were some massive wildfires in the northern rockies around 1910 that kind of
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encoded in the dna of the early forest service a desire to stamp out forest fires as quickly as
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possible so one of the ways of doing that of course is early detection and so fire towers were
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built on many a mountaintop in the american west some had already been in place in the east even before
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then but by you know 1940 or so there were probably about 8 000 fire towers across the country and the
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idea was you place a human being up on a mountaintop with a 360 degree view and that person by staying
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vigilant will give you you know quick detection of a forest fire and allow firefighters to jump on it
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right away and stamp it out so they pretty much lived up there for months at a time by themselves
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right yeah the early fire lookouts would typically go to a mountain well away from a road and just stay
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there for the duration of fire season from when the snow melted in the spring and until weather changed
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in the late summer or fall that fire danger would finally be lessened you know there's some great
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writing that's come out of the job norman mclean in his book of stories a river runs through it wrote
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about being a fire lookout in 1919 in montana and he yeah he basically went up and lived in a tent
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climbed a tree several times a day for a look around and that was the job and he would use a
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crank telephone to call in fires to the ranger station below and uh jack kerouac also did that right
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he did he spent one season in the north cascades washington state and he made much of that experience
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in in multiple books of his he's probably the most famous literary fire lookout of all
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even though he only spent 63 days on desolation peak and seemed to find it a disagreeable experience
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too much solitude right we'll talk about that solitude here in a bit your experience with it
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another interesting i remember reading through i collect old men's magazines from like the 50s and 60s
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i think it was true magazine they had a feature about one thing that some couple newlywed couples
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would do back in the 50s was for their honeymoon or shortly after they got married was they would go
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and just do a fire watch for a couple months and that was their honeymoon that was an interesting
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article yeah you know i met someone who did that on the mountain where i work back in the early 50s
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i just happened to run into her in a restaurant in a very small town in southern new mexico and she
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started talking to me and i told her where i was working i was just on days off from the fire tower and
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she said oh my husband and i spent our honeymoon there back in 1953 when she was you know 17 or
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something and he was 20 years old so yeah yeah it was a thing yeah it'd be funny hey honey we're gonna go
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be alone for three months for four months on a mountain yeah if you want to test the strength
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of the relationship i guess that would be one way to do it that's the way to do it so there were 8 000
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of these towers at one point but they've been declining how many are there in existence today
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and why are there so few so the numbers that i've been hearing in the last few years are that
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somewhere between four and five hundred are still staffed mostly in the american west there are other
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countries of course that use them too australia and places in south america but in the united states
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it's a few hundred and there's a variety of reasons why the number has declined partly it's just
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significant development into formerly forested areas you know once upon a time it was only a
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lookout could see a fire in certain places in say california but with home construction and
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development into those areas it's just as likely that someone you know standing on their back deck
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will see the fire as quickly as a lookout would and in other places they've just gone to different
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detection methods like over flights with airplanes and you know there's just a continual push to use
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more technology in place of actual human beings i mean we see that across our entire society but
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it's also true for lookouts that people dream of using um you know infrared cameras linked with
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pattern recognition software or satellites maybe unmanned aerial vehicles drones so all of those things
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have um pushed lookouts not not to the brink of extinction but we are definitely a dwindling
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threatened species right well let's talk about how you got connected with this when did you start
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working a fire tower in new mexico how did that happen so my first year was 2002 16 years ago and
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i just got lucky i um i got a note from a friend of mine an old friend from the university of montana and
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she wrote to me and said that she had got a gig as a summer lookout down in the gila in new
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mexico and that i should come visit at the time i was working as a copy editor in new york city at
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the wall street journal so she sort of teased me and said you know get your flabby white keister out of
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that cubicle and escape the canyons of lower manhattan for a view from a mountain in new mexico so
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naturally i couldn't resist that invitation i flew to albuquerque and drove south from there a couple
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hours and met up with my friend and we hiked into this fire tower many miles from the nearest road
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she was on days off when we met up and i spent 72 hours there and just absolutely fell in love with
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the view the landscape the lifestyle the essence of the job and she had been there by then for months
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and was kind of itching for more action than one typically sees just living on a mountaintop she
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wanted to go fight a fire so she talked her boss into letting her do that and allowing me to slot in
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as her replacement for what remained of that season and the rest is history i've gone back
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every summer since 2002 and how long so you start in the summer how long are you there how long does
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a fire season last so our fire season starts pretty early because we're so far south we typically kick off
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with fires in april and i'll be on the mountain typically until sometime in august every year
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we get a monsoon rain weather pattern that puts an end to fire danger here usually starting in
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sometime in july and extending into august so most seasons i'll work from early april to at least mid
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august okay and so you're in the gila national wilderness area correct yeah it's the gila national
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forest which is 3.3 million acres and inside of that is a protected roadless wilderness area of half a
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million acres gotcha and why are there still towers there is it just because it's so large or is it
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more susceptible to fires actually both it's a very large landscape like i said 3.3 million acres
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the gila national forest is as large as some small eastern states and it is very susceptible to
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lightning caused wildfires the nature of the landscape it's very dry it's very arid forest
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and it gets hit by more lightning than any other landscape in america aside from the gulf coast region
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so combine those two things very uh arid flammable fuels and lots of lightning and so every season we see
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typically hundreds of wildfire starts in the gila and because it's not very uh settled there aren't
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many towns nearby or within the forest it still does require eyes in the sky to
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detect wildfires there so you're not the only tower there there's other towers in the area that's
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correct there are 10 of us actually still staffed in the gila which probably is more than any other
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forest in the lower 48 well and so whenever you see a wildfire so i mean i imagine you see the smoke
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first what what goes on how do you all triangulate where the fire's at how does that work yeah so we um
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we're all equipped with two essential tools one is a two-way vhf radio so we can communicate with
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other lookouts and with dispatchers and with firefighters on the ground and we have um this
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tool that really hasn't changed in 100 years called the osborne firefinder which is essentially a sighting
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device it's almost like a gun sight and what you do with it is you zero in on the precise location of the
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smoke and you're right it is typically smoke you see first not flames and when you do that it'll give
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you a compass reading expressed in degrees from zero to 360 that is the is what we call the azimuth
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which is basically a straight line between your location and the smoke and then what we can do with
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that is talk to other lookouts and say my azimuth is say you know 90 degrees from my location
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that other lookout if he or she can see the smoke will also come up with an azimuth reading and then we
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turn to these maps of the forest which are typically on a drop-down board on hinges
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within our fire tower and we just cross our lines on those maps using compass rosettes that are
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affixed to the map and it's a simple case of triangulation and if we have at least two lines
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from two different locations to the smoke then we can pinpoint it with great accuracy so you said
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there you see you know a couple hundred of these lightning started wildfires uh are do you get
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like an adrenaline rush still like anytime you see smoke and like you get excited you feel your heart
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go fast or have you gotten used to it where it's it's it's just it's just like part of the job yeah
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you'd think after 16 seasons and many dozens of fires called in from my location it would kind of get
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to be old hat but it is the case that for me anyway i still do get that adrenaline rush partly it's just
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knowing that i'm the only person in the world seeing this natural phenomenon and uh i'm about to
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sound the alarm and give the fire a name all of those play into uh the adrenaline rush and sometimes
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you know you can go weeks maybe even a couple months staying vigilant and nothing happens
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and then all of a sudden one day it's there so yeah it never does fail to be thrilling
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yeah that was another thing i didn't know fires get names and the person who sees it first gets to
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name it sort of like a hurricane gets a name right yeah we typically try to give it a name
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that's based on a local landmark so you know a river or a canyon or a the name of a peak or some
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other prominent local landmark so you know usually when you hear fires in the news it's because someone
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spotted it and you know a lot of places where there aren't lookouts it'll be the firefighters or the
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dispatch center that gives it a name but still here on the gila it's the lookouts that name the fires
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so let's talk about one of the i mean i think the thing i found most fascinating about this was
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your experience with solitude in nature because this is something that i think a lot of people
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today don't experience um so before that we get to the specific instances of that let's talk about
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like your accommodations to give people an idea of what your day-to-day was like so there's a fire
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tower like where did you sleep is there like a cabin on top of the tower that you you slept in
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at my mountain there's a cabin down below the tower unconnected with the tower a lot of lookouts
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have live-in towers that are roomier they're say you know 12 by 12 or 14 by 14 feet often with a catwalk
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around the exterior my tower is one of those bare bones utilitarian spaces that's uh seven by seven feet
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and not really a livable space it's just big enough to hold the osborne firefinder and allow one person
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to walk around the outside of it and so there's a cabin that's been there for many many decades
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where i live and it's just right below the tower okay and so when you went there like what how far
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away were you from like humanity i mean were you was it hundreds of miles away i mean how how alone
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were you not quite that extreme i'm five miles from the nearest road and that road will take you to
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a town with um adult beverages and a lunch spot in about uh 40 minute drive so you know it's it's
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relatively isolated just because of the distance from automobiles but you know if i hike real fast
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down the down the hill to my truck and speed off away i can be having i could leave my tower and be
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drinking a beer in like two and a half hours gotcha we're gonna take a quick break for your word from
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our sponsors and now back to the show so how long did you go without seeing or talking to anyone
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during this when you're up on a season uh it varies quite a bit i'm there for 10 day stretches
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at a time and then i get four days off so during those 10 days i live there stay there sleep there
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during the four days off i hike out and go home but during those 10 days i might see nobody for 10 days
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it's pretty rare that that happens but it has happened and other times i'll see day hikers
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you know when the weather's nice in the summer i might see day hikers three or four days in a row
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you know maybe a couple one day and three or four people the next day and then i'll go four or five
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days without seeing anybody so it's pretty variable it often depends on just how good the weather is and
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how much people decide they want to get out and take a walk but it is still possible for me to go 10
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days without seeing anybody which is always rather delightful for me yeah was that i was gonna ask
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you was that unnerving but sounds like you actually enjoyed that solitude yeah on the contrary for
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years and years every time i heard hikers coming up the hill having a conversation with each other or
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maybe just see saw them appear through the trees at the edge of the meadow my heart would sink because
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i'd think oh geez i gotta exercise my vocal cords and uh give my little public relations speech about
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wildfire and what this place is all about but over the years i found if you're willing to hike five
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miles uphill for the sheer pleasure of it you're typically a quality human being and so i've come to
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treasure my my interactions with strangers who show up there unannounced and just accept that that's part
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of the deal you know it's i'm lucky i get to live for months each year on a piece of public land that's
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owned by all of us and so i you know i don't need to get all possessive about it it's owned by every other
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american too so if they want to come and enjoy it take a hike see the view from a mountain they
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should absolutely do that and uh i'll try to be as welcoming as i can uh while they're there i'm
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curious do you notice like do you like go through a transition from you know there's a there's a you
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that is you before you know fire season where you're you're interacting with people probably more
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regularly than you do when you're on fire season like is there a difference between that you and
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then as you go further further deeper into the season where you're more and more alone like do
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you change at all do you notice a change in your brain does i mean you know you know something trying
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to ask here yeah you know i do my wife would probably tell you that uh come you know late february
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early march early march of every year i start to get a little uh anxious
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a little um maybe even a little unpleasant to be around and it's it's because i'm looking forward to
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this incredible experience that i keep having summer after summer and keep loving more and more
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the more i do it it's interesting because i have that 10 day stretch of work there and then four days off
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it's not like i unplug so radically from the world for a really long stretch of time
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i come to treasure that balance between solitude and sociability so on my days off every other weekend
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you know it's kind of fun to get together with friends and
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catch up and you know sit down and gossip or have a couple beers and and then uh then i get to escape
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again and go hang out by myself for 10 days at the end of the season i do always find it's really hard
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to let go the season is always too short no matter how long it extends you know i'd probably prefer to
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be there about 10 months a year instead of five but you know it's just part of the deal it's a
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seasonal job living there in the winter would probably be really brutal anyway because it'd be
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really cold up above 10 000 feet so i try to i try to just remember all things in moderation and all
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things in balance you know the solitude and the social ability the high country bliss and the
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neon plastic valleys it's all it's all part of my life and i try to try to remain pretty balanced about
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it how has your connection to nature changed since working as a fire watch because this you're an
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interesting position because you're observing nature from a very macro level it's not like you're like
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looking at an individual leaf like a botanist but like you're looking at an entire landscape so imagine
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that's changed the way you perceive nature in some way yeah it has it's interesting because i get to
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spend more than 100 days there every year i can spend a whole afternoon like down on my hands and knees
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if it's if it's a cloudy day and fire danger is really low like geeking out on short-horned lizards
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and salamanders poking out of their holes in the meadow below my tower so i can you know spend time
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focused on the micro world and the micro life that i share the mountain with and at the same time i'm
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mostly looking at a piece of country that's really big from from my tower i can see
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oh if you went to the horizon and drew it out on a map and and lined it you'd probably encompass an
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area of close to 20 000 square miles i mean it's it's a phenomenal view you can see forever
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and one of the interesting things about the experience of being there as long as i have is
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i've seen changes changes that are happening on a landscape scale the fires keep getting bigger and
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hotter a lot of the old growth forest that you know has been there since who knows it's probably been
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there in some form or another you know burning and regenerating for 10 000 years a lot of it's going
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away now and it doesn't seem like it's going to come back because of climate change so yeah i toggle back
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and forth between that that real close-up micro attention to the world around me up there and the big
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picture view which to me is rather scary watching it change on a landscape scale relatively quickly
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is like besides the site is there something about the sound like is it just like supremely quiet up
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there or is actually pretty loud with the wind ah depends on the season and the day the springtime
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tends to be very windy there and the noise of that can be deafening and actually challenging for one's
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mental health to live amid that howl day after day i've measured wind gusts above uh 80 miles an hour
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there and so you can imagine hanging out in a a metal tower built in the late 1930s maybe not being the most
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pleasant way to while away your work day and then you know later in the season the wind dies down we get
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toward june and july and into august and yeah there are days of just supreme silence nothing but bird calls
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so i see that place in many different moods and weathers and some i prefer more than others but it's
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kind of an interesting experience to see the range of moods and weathers in a place if you just
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root yourself there and and sit and watch for a while do you get bored up there like you're just
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staring out you know thousands of thousands of acres and you're trying to and i mean i'm sure you're
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does your mind wander like what do you think about like what do you do to while the way the time
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yeah uh people ask me that a lot and it is just the case that i i can't remember a moment there when
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i was ever bored the view is so interesting for one thing there's plenty to do just from a logistical
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perspective you know i wash my clothes by hand and hang them on the clothesline i uh chop wood
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for warmth because the nights get cold in april you know it sometimes gets down into the teens
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and so you know i need a fairly large stack of wood there every season so there's also
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just facilities maintenance that i have to do painting roof repair keeping the gutters tight
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because they catch rain water that filters into my cistern and is my drinking water source
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and then it's also the case i like to read and write so uh i'm blessed i have a job where if i
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look out the window every 10 or 15 minutes and do a 360 scan i am pretty much performing the basics of
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my job and i can multitask you know by tapping away on the typewriter or reading a book and in the
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tower and just staying vigilant while i'm doing that toggling back and forth between these activities
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so there's plenty to see plenty to do and enough to keep me busy that i i can't remember a time where
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i thought yeah i wish i were not here i wish i were somewhere else where there was more stimulation
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because there's plenty enough for me there do you notice that your writing changes when you're up
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there or is it pretty much the same um yeah it's interesting because i use different tools at
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different times and i think that does affect the writing over the years i've done a lot of writing
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by hand there in notebooks and i've also done a fair amount of writing on an old olivetti latera typewriter
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and that feels different than when i come home and use my laptop and it i think it's good for me
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actually because especially the long hand slows me down and i really treasure the ability to
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to actually work and think that way because seems like most of the pressure in our culture is to do
00:28:35.700
everything faster and i just find i'm a a slow thinker a slow talker as you're probably finding in this
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interview and i i think better and more clearly if i slow things down and it's not a luxury most of us
00:28:55.540
have in our jobs i don't think anymore but in mine i have that luxury and i i try to cherish it and use
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it to the best of my ability in my writing to maybe give a different flavor to my writing than you might
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find elsewhere so another thing you do you wrote it's like an addendum to your first book their fire
00:29:17.220
season at least about you listen to baseball games on the radio tell us about the virtues of listening to a
00:29:23.700
game via radio instead of watching it on tv yeah it's a habit for me that goes way back to my childhood
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growing up on a farm in southern minnesota where you know we were often working in the fields uh in the
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tractor or working in the livestock barns and we'd just have a game on the radio all summer long
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so it felt kind of natural to uh revert to that habit when i'm up there on a mountain and
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you know most of my connection to the outside world there happens aside from my vhf radio which is a you
00:30:05.220
know a forest service agency radio where we just talk business it happens via fm radio and am radio
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because i can pick up signals from long distance so yeah over the years i made a habit of you know
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tuning in games that i could find on the am radio often out of denver or phoenix the rockies the
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diamondbacks and you know it kind of seems to fit with the throwback nature of the job you know yeah most
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people who geek out on baseball are watching watching it on television maybe they have the mlb network
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package or whatever and i certainly enjoy doing that from time to time but i have always liked having
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a picture painted in words for me and imagining the game playing out in my head because it takes me back
00:31:00.580
to uh you know the late 70s in southern minnesota where i would stay up late with a radio under my pillow
00:31:08.660
listening to twins games on the west coast after i was supposed to be in bed just one of those
00:31:15.860
delightful uh kind of antiquey things about our culture that you can thankfully still do you can
00:31:24.580
still do yeah i've done i've listened to football games on the radio and yeah it's it's kind of it's
00:31:30.900
mentally or cognitively taxing because it's not something you have to you have to imagine
00:31:35.220
with your brain without seeing it what's going on based on what some guys describing it that can be
00:31:40.900
hard yeah i think it's more it's a more active mental experience than watching on tv tv seems to
00:31:50.100
allow you a passivity because it's just coming at you in images whereas if you're listening you've you've
00:31:57.380
got to create the images they're not they're not there right in front of your eyeballs so during this uh
00:32:03.460
you know these 16 years you've been watching fires have you ever seen a massive wildfire on the gila
00:32:11.060
yeah more than one really starting in about 2011 we started to see larger fires in 2012 i witnessed the
00:32:23.940
largest fire in new mexico state history which was more than 500 square miles almost 300 000 acres
00:32:33.460
burned up most of uh a very large mountain range called the muggy owns and then the very next year i had
00:32:41.220
an experience where a similar fire about half as large burned most of the mountain range where i work
00:32:50.580
and forced me to flee in a helicopter evacuation because it was clear that the fire was gonna burn over
00:32:58.580
my mountain and all around it so i saw it when it was a single tree struck by lightning putting up a
00:33:05.620
little puff of white smoke and then i watched from afar i was actually reassigned to a different tower
00:33:14.740
20 miles away for the rest of the season and and watched as it burned all around my mountain so we're
00:33:21.700
seeing yeah we're seeing mega fires now on a scale we have not seen before certainly in uh in recorded
00:33:30.020
history anyway what has been your biggest takeaway about life and wilderness working the fire watch all
00:33:36.660
these years i mean you're coming on two decades of doing this oh the biggest takeaway is probably that
00:33:43.940
the healthiest land is the land with the least human impact to it you know i the gila is a mix much of it
00:33:52.420
is grazed a lot of it has roads through it some of it has mining claims on it there are very small human
00:34:01.540
settlements here and there and yet a lot of it is roadless wilderness where you can only travel by horseback
00:34:11.620
or on foot and the further you go into that part of the landscape the wilder it is the healthier it
00:34:21.380
feels the more wildlife you experience and i just love being out there because it's it's so beautiful to
00:34:31.140
experience that web of life that's been existing there for millennia it's it can be a challenge to you
00:34:39.460
know come down off the mountain and drive back into a city like el paso where i live now and see what
00:34:45.300
we've done to the landscape there because um it's an urban planning catastrophe uh we're chewing ever
00:34:53.300
more into the desert with new housing developments and it's a stark contrast to the beauty and complexity
00:35:03.380
and biodiversity of a place like the center of the gila wilderness which feels you know probably about
00:35:11.940
like it did when it was inhabited by uh the muggy own native culture a thousand years ago and i love the
00:35:21.780
feeling of being in that landscape and i cherish it more and more all the time because it seems to be under
00:35:29.300
threat everywhere those type of landscapes if there's someone listening to this podcast and they're
00:35:35.140
they're hearing like they think i want to do that i want to be a fire watch are these jobs pretty
00:35:40.260
competitive like since there's so few of them now yeah they're extremely competitive you know as
00:35:46.260
mentioned i've been doing it for 16 years and i've found that i'm still the rookie in the gila because
00:35:53.700
all my uh colleagues started before me and have kept at it for in many cases decades i have one colleague
00:36:03.700
who uh the upcoming season will be her 37th year 37th or 38th i can't remember another colleague who's
00:36:12.100
been at it for 29 years so once people get these jobs they do find it hard to give up because they're
00:36:20.740
so precious and so groovy and there just aren't very many of them and the ones that do open up the
00:36:29.540
battle for them is sort of competitive and the forest service has a program where it privileges
00:36:36.820
those with military experience so you have hiring preference if you're you know coming out of a
00:36:43.140
military background so if you have that you have an advantage in those jobs that do open up but yeah
00:36:51.940
just because there's a few hundred of us and most of them are most of us are clinging to the jobs we
00:36:58.500
have it does make it really hard to break in well philip is there some place people can go to learn more
00:37:03.300
about your work yeah uh i have a website www.philipconnors.com has some links there to my
00:37:12.580
books and my other work including photos from my location so that that's a good place to start and
00:37:20.180
branch off from there well philip connors thanks for your time it's been a pleasure oh the pleasure
00:37:24.260
was mine thanks for having me on the podcast my guest it was philip connors he's the author of the
00:37:28.420
book fire season field notes from a wilderness lookout it's available on amazon.com and bookstores
00:37:32.580
everywhere you can find out more information about his work at philipconnors.com also check
00:37:36.500
out our show notes at aom.is firewatch where you find links to resources where you delve deeper into
00:37:41.060
this topic well that wraps up another edition of the aom podcast check out our website artofmanliness.com
00:37:58.020
where you find thousands of thorough well-researched articles about social skills physical fitness
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