Developing Your Personal Uniform
Episode Stats
Summary
The Personal Uniform is a look that you settle on as your regular get up. On the show today, I talk to style writers David Coggins and Michael Williams about all things concerning this stylish yet bandwidth saving approach to dressing. We discuss what a personal uniform is, how to develop one, why that development comes with age, and how to find inspiration for yours. We also talk about establishing the base pieces of your personal uniform, buying multiples of its fundamental components, and refining your look over time.
Transcript
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brett mckay here and welcome to another edition of the art of manliness podcast the personal
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uniform is a look that you settled on as your regular get up today on the show i talked to
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two style writers david coggins and michael williams about all things concerning this
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stylish yet bandwidth saving approach to dressing we discuss what a personal uniform is how to
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develop one and why that development comes with age how to find inspiration for yours we also
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talk about establishing the base pieces of your personal uniform buying multiples of its fundamental
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components and refining your look over time after the show's over check out our show notes at
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awim.is slash personal uniform david coggins michael williams welcome to the show hey brad good to be
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here yeah thanks for having us well david long-time listeners are likely familiar with
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you and your background because this is your fourth time on the podcast this is a rare you're for peter
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this is a rarefied group you're you've joined but for newer listeners can you briefly tell us about
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your background in the world of menswear and style and you've i mean why have you spent so many years
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writing about it yeah i don't like to do the math on these things and look back at how long i've i've
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been writing about this stuff but it's great to be back on the show great to talk to you i i i started
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out because i was just interested in in clothes and why why we like them and how they're made and
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the people who make them and people who wear them in an interesting way and as i get older i that my
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views evolve the same way we the way we dress evolves over time and so and also half the magazines
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i wrote for have gone out of business the way print magazines tend to do these days so as a matter of
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fact i even wrote a lot of my early style stories for a continuous lean a site michael knows a lot
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about so that was a good starting point for me and it's nice to be talking with you guys today
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yeah michael let's introduce you to our listeners uh what's your background in the world of men's
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clothing and menswear yeah so i i started a website called a continuous lean back when websites like
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that were called blogs no i i started a men's style blog i was like randomly one of the first people
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if you meet me you'd kind of think like wow this is the guy that started the men's style blog i
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maybe wouldn't have guessed that but it's all it's all in here it's it's in here somewhere but
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i basically was interested in all these things was you know reading about menswear online and and a lot
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of like what was out in the magazines not what caggins was doing per se but just what was out in
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general kind of wasn't exactly the aesthetic or the point of view that i was looking for and i thought
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well i should just do this for fun as a creative outlet and started that site and it became this
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you know i sort of was in the right place at the right time with the right point of view and and
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it sort of just kind of became this popular thing and then that has sort of propelled me along to
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you know just my career has sort of followed you know the growth of acl and then you know i do
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marketing work and write about other stuff on you know my whole career has sort of evolved around
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that but i sort of just fell into it but i'm still very interested in you know much of what
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caggins was saying too it's like the people that make these things or how things are made or what
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goes into the things we wear every day and that's something i'm still pretty passionate about yeah
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continuously i i remember finding something upon that back in 2008 or 9 and i'm sure if like if if a
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guy's listening to this podcast and they own a pair of wolverine 1000 mile boots or a pair of
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selvedge jeans from was that north that north carolina mill they probably have you to thank
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yeah that stuff was coming sort of mainstream when i was championing it so i don't know if i if they
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had me to thank but i definitely helped sort of propel that you know for better or worse and yeah
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the denim factory which is no longer uh is is called the white oak factory but yeah that stuff you know
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i think part of my idea behind doing what i was doing with acl was this stuff isn't going to be
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around forever and especially if people don't start to appreciate some of these things and a lot of the
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stuff sort of has come and gone but then other things have gained incredible popularity so it's
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kind of been interesting to see on both sides so you guys uh a while back ago david you did a
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newsletter on your sub stack about finding your personal uniform and this is something you and michael
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talk about on your podcast that you have it's a recurring topic let's start out there like what
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do you guys mean by a personal uniform is this something that you're supposed to wear every day
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like steve jobs and his black turtleneck and jeans and new balance shoes well i think the uniform is
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fascinating to me because it combines sort of self-expression and ease and that's a lot of what
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we're talking about when we're talking about how to dress it's something that reflects who you are
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but also something that makes your life easier especially in the morning when you don't want to
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make major decisions about how to present yourself to people you work with or people you're meeting
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with and so i'm fascinated with especially as we get older it seems like we arrive more clearly at a
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sense of kind of who we are and the clothes we need to reflect what we're doing in the world and so a
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uniform i i think for some people it it might intimidate them because it seems like you're committing
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to something but i find it really liberating in a way because it just takes another thing out of
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your you've resolved something very important and easy on a daily basis so i think that's what what we
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talk about when we talk about uniforms yeah i mean i think the the reason steve jobs was doing it
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is maybe a little bit different than why david and i champion it i think he was like trying to just
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eliminate the effort in you know choosing what to wear every day and it was it's almost like if you
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you could not eat and just have soylent if you just needed the nutrition right and you can like
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get rid of eating as a as a time you know as a something that you spend time doing or energy on
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thinking about and just you know get the nutrition from something else you know there you could do that
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but it wouldn't really be much fun and i think that a lot of times like i think about steve jobs
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and i think he was doing it maybe for a little bit of a different reason yeah i think you guys i mean
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you guys aren't approaching the personal uniform as a chance to not care about aesthetics or how you
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look and you know it's also it's not like a star trek thing where everyone's wearing the same uniform
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because of its you know its functionality but you guys do care about aesthetics and you do care about
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how you look and you know you've you've dialed in into your own unique aesthetic and what you think
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looks good on you what looks best on you and then you replicate it so you're not just being utilitarian
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about it but i mean it does save bandwidth in figuring out how to dress beyond that are there
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other benefits to having a personal uniform well i mean dressing to me still reflects some sort of
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self-knowledge so if i see someone who's has arrived at a uniform i know that he knows himself
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which is always going to be appealing and reassuring and also that he's at ease with himself
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it communicates something that puts other people at ease and so we're not talking about a uniform in
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some way that like all men wearing the gray final suit it's like someone can wear a gray final suit
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and look like himself someone can wear a chore jacket and and khakis and look like himself but you
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kind of wanted you do have to make decisions to arrive at the point of not making decisions right
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it's sort of like if you master a meal that you can cook when you have company it took you a long time
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to arrive at that but now that your friends are coming over you know exactly what to do and how to prepare
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it i i guess i need to be clear here like when you're talking about a uniform i think a lot of
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guys would say well i've got a uniform i wear t-shirt and jeans and flip-flops every day it seems like
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that's not what you guys are talking about it's like not like a default you're trying to be intentional
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about it am i am i am i right about that i mean i would have encouraged anyone to avoid something that
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involves other people seeing their toes i don't think that's going to win any awards uh unless you're a
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lifeguard but um i i think that we're talking about something that you're like go out in the world
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and it's not because you ran out of ideas it's because you have a really good idea and then that
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is that's specific to you i mean maybe uniform is even i don't know if it's giving the right
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connotation but when i see and i know when you meet certain people like a certain creative director
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you're like oh i get it this is how what he does he's got like a very specific t-shirt a very
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specific pair of sneakers maybe a fancy watch and like jeans that i don't know what they are but i
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know they probably cost a lot i'm not saying that's for everybody but i was like that guy has arrived
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at that point of view and that in it and he's at ease in it and it works for him almost every day
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and that you know that that communicates even a certain sort of power in a way or at least resolve
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that he knows what makes sense for him i think it's interesting everyone can have a different
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opinion about this and there's no right or wrong and the way coggins sees this could be very different
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than the way i see it and it still could work so there's like you know there's no there's no right
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or wrong answer with this stuff i see the uniform as like a refinement of your personal style say you took
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your music collection that you've accumulated your whole life and you had to strip it down to like the
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top 25 records or whatever and you're kind of like all right this this is the stuff i enjoy the most
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and i want to sort of like continue to have in rotation so for me it's like if i you know feel
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like oh i look good in unstructured sport coats and they're casual enough for me and they're
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comfortable enough and i and they work for meetings and they work for travel and they work for all this
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other stuff and i feel confident in them then i'm going to keep that in my my sort of rotation or and
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make that part of my uniform and so everything i wear is kind of like has has that sort of basis where
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you know you look good and you feel confident in it and it feels like you are representing yourself
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and so every your uniform is made up of all the things that you've sort of tried over the years
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and feel like you look good in and give you confidence and and present you in a way that you
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feel is accurate to how you see yourself and that to me is like is the uniform that's you know it's it's
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an evolutionary process in a way like i don't think you could do it if you're very young you can't just
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be like all right this is my uniform because you kind of haven't tried everything you need to know
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you know sort of go through that process and figure out what what works best for you and what you what
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makes you feel the best and it's sort of like stripping away all the noise and just keeping that
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important the important things that serve you sort of the best or make you feel the best
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yeah david i i follow you on instagram and my parasocial relationship that i have with you
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i sense like every time i see pictures of you it doesn't you have like there's a there's a
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continuity of what you wear it doesn't matter if you are fly fishing or at a book signing or you know
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with michael watching the pga tour it's and it's kind of weird because all those situations there
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they they call for varying degrees of formality and you do change the formality but there's an overall
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like yeah like there's that's david's uniform how would you guys describe your respective personal
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uniforms these days well i mean i should say i've spent a lot of time thinking about this more than
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most people should ever do if you're writing about it stories and books then and newsletters you're
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going to be spending too much time and also if you're slightly tend to be self-absorbed which maybe
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someone has said about me at one point in my life for more than one person then you have some sense of
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who you are and what you want to how you want to communicate yourself and i think i i generally like
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traditional tailoring and but then loosened up slightly and i think there's a way to be comfortable
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i like things that are old that i've had for a while i don't like to look like i'm just wearing new
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clothes and i don't generally think people look their best in new clothes because it's just a little
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squeaky and that i would say that about things in general and so to me if you have a an easy going
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sport coat that you've had for a while and like an oxford shirt that not a dress shirt just an oxford
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collar shirt and a knit tie that will get you looking pretty good in most places at least and
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i feel comfortable in those clothes and i can kind of ratchet it up slightly into more kind of flannel
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and a suit if i'm if i'm going somewhere that neat i think requires that and if i'm in the countryside
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i can kind of loosen that up with chinos and something like a short coat or something and that that
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kind of makes sense for me and i still feel relaxed in those situations and i think i mean i'll just put
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a word in for tailored clothing i think a lot of guys try to wear a suit or a sport coat and it's
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often doesn't fit well and they they get which isn't even their fault they just get it from a place
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that doesn't specialize in those things or doesn't have a person who helps them get to a point where
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they feel more comfortable i mean most people get a suit it doesn't feel good and they reject it and
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they never feel comfortable in it or they don't ever want to wear it but if you get one that does fit
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well and that you are comfortable and then you just literally wear it four or five times you get
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to a point where you're like oh i can do this i can i can be myself in this and then kind of evolve
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from there so i will put a word quick word in for tailoring there because i think so many men look
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good in it and they often don't don't get to the point where they would be like driving a manual
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transmission car and you stall once and you're like forget this i'm sticking with an automatic
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yeah i think i have a similar view to david but i think it's a little my approach i think was formed
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a little differently than his was so part of what i have always strived to do is like i i always
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thought about if i look back if i took a photo of myself now and what i'm wearing and i looked back
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at it in 10 years or 15 years how am i going to feel about that right and what i'm wearing is it going
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to be relevant to that time in 15 years or am i going to look like a clown and you know i think so
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part of what i've been always trying to do with my personal style is think about that you know
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trying to be sort of neutral in a way but still representative of my personality the other thing
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i've tried to do which i think coggins does really well and i think you know if you talk about the two
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of us going to the masters together and what we were wearing versus what everyone else was wearing
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i really try not to give into the sort of social pressure of wearing a certain thing in a certain
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place and i really try to stay with who i am and what my personal style is and not feel like i need
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to go into some other zone because i'm going to an event or because something's happening i really
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try to keep it focused on you know what i feel comfortable in what i feel like represents me
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and you know try to stay in that zone in a way and not sort of give into the social pressure of
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you know dressing a certain way which i think there's actually a lot of in the world there's
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like a lot of pressure to look a certain way and i think you know i'm always just trying to
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look like myself and that's kind of my goal and those two things together have sort of you know
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driven me into this place where wow i you know have a pretty defined uniform which i feel great about
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so like okay the masters example all right most people there i don't even is there like a dress
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coat of the masters i mean or is it just like you wear nike golf clothes is that what it is
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it's a very funny situation because it looks like they're gonna these guys think they're gonna get
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handed a emergency golf situation and they're gonna have to run onto the course and uh hit it on the par
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three i was thinking about this i was at a golf tournament this weekend i think people also don't
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know what to wear there because of it's you know augusta national and whatever and so i think they
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just think well it'll be really safe if i just wear golf clothes you know and they just so a lot of
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people wearing golf clothes i think is just based on that but then there's also just people wearing
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golf clothes which doesn't make any sense and then there were coggins and i we did not we were not
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fitting into like anyone else but it was you know i think we perfectly looked like ourselves
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so what would you guys wear like would you be easy to spot i think we would be i mean i i've been
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reminded of this photos that were taken of us so i mean just the age of social media people
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send this picture to me and ask what coat i was wearing or where that it was i had a master's hat
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for one thing they have a rope hat different uh one every year and so that's always what we look
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for together at least what i look for and i was wearing i think some sort of sunglasses and a
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just a chore coat but i was wearing a knit tie and so i don't know it had a particular look to it and i
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thought it looked like we were having fun i mean i love the masters but i'm not really a golf person
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i'm just a master's person if such a thing exists and so we were out there enjoying ourselves
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and that photo i mean i guess we did stand out but that's only if you care about these types of
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rarefied exercises anyway michael what were you wearing i i was wearing khakis and an oxford
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button-down you know like i wasn't wearing i was just wearing something really simple which i wear
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most days you know i was like very much in the zone of what i typically wear i think we would have
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stood out a little bit but i also don't think like anyone walking by us would be like what are
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those guys wearing i think if you really stopped and said like who's different here it would have
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been you know we might have stood out in that way but i don't think like we were sort of raising any
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eyebrows like walking around the place you know yeah i know i know the picture you're talking about
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and what's yeah you're right like you guys didn't look like weirdos like you actually look you know
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david was wearing a tie like he looks comfortable like that looks appropriate for the masters with the
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ball cap and then you know michael was like yeah he looks he looks well put he looks put together
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and he looks comfortable as well and you didn't look like you were wearing that weird synthetic
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golf stuff that everyone every attorney dad wears these days so david your general when i i describe
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your uniform is like i think country gentleman that's what i see yeah he just looks relaxed doesn't
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look overtly just you look comfortable it looks well worn and comfortable would that be a good
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description like you're ready like it looks like you're ready to go out for a fly fish i think
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at any moment it's funny when you put when you start to put words on these things because then it
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sounds like i think one of the points of what we're talking about is trying to be relaxed and
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when we like dial it in what the recipe is then it sounds more contrived but that's what we're doing
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so i would like to think that it's like a maybe a country person who comes into the city right so
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you've got a little bit of a foot in both worlds so but you can handle being having kind of a
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serious lunch or you could handle like going outside and uh you know looking at birds or
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something or fly fishing like you mentioned and so i i think you want to have like you i always like
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people who are interested in kind of two different worlds like i like english guys who love italian
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tailoring because they they try to dress like italians but they end up just looking more english
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but i love that and italian guys who love the traditions of being english you know these italians
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revere the english traditions and when they try to dress like them i mean they can't look english
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are just going to look more italian which i love that so i i'm into all those worlds kind of coming
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together and and with a certain amount of ease i mean i used to like things that were fancier maybe
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or i thought i had to get really serious dress shirts or really serious tailored clothing especially
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when i worked more in midtown but i don't it's too hard to keep that stuff up for me i don't want to
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get all that stuff laundered and pressed and so i found or even if i'm traveling it doesn't travel so
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well so i like fabrics that can kind of absorb heavy wear and i just i like to have you know nice enough
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things but i like to wear them and live in them and if they elbows start to get a little thin that's
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fine with me all right so michael how would you describe yours uniform david's like country mouse
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goes to the city what would be yours uh i don't i don't know that i have a setting uh i really love
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uh well-made classic american things like i a lot of times wear jeans and a oxford cloth button down and a
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you know navy merino sweater and you know that's kind of like my zone i you know i have a couple
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jackets that i figured out that i love like i'll wear a barber coat or i'll wear
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a chore coat or i'll wear you know unstructured sport coat but i don't really i'm not as tailored maybe
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as david but i do love these sort of tried and true classic things the shetland sweater and
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you know leather you know leather brogues and things like that so that's kind of my zone canvas sneakers
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i have like one canvas sneaker i'll wear and one pair of leather shoes that i wear and one pair of
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boots and you know one type of jeans and one khaki and so i just kind of figured out like all those
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classic items and i like really well-made things i like to think about value in a different way where
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you maybe spend a little bit more up front and buy something of better quality that'll last you a
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long time and like david i love to wear my things a lot so you know i love to like you know wear
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things over and over and and really you know spend time with them and live in them and that's to me
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very comforting so you guys are in your 40s and you mentioned earlier this is like a uniform isn't
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something you can really establish in your 20s so how did you kind of decide like i've arrived this is
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this is it this is the look i'm gonna have until i'm i'm buried in the ground well it evolves you know
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and i think one thing that's interesting when you look at this is that you you can tell different
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times in your life and different things you're trying to do so when i i think when i really had
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to when i was working in advertising and was in midtown a lot i and i had to get up and get dressed
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for serious people i was looking for making the fewest decisions but with the rough core of what
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i was trying to do so for me that was like gray flannel trousers a blue shirt a light blue shirt and a
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solid tie or a knit tie and then the only decision i had to make was what sport coat i wanted what
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pattern sport coat so that pattern was the was a kind of variable and everything else was set and i
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really started to think a lot about it at that time i was probably in my mid-30s then and then as i
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evolved i that was a little more tailored than i wanted to be i i like to not worry so much about
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taking care of the clothes i just want to be able to toss them in the wash i don't even want to iron
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them i just want them so then i got into more like corduroys and moleskin trousers and oxford cloth shirts
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like michael was saying and that started to make sense sometimes you don't realize it until you've
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worn it for a while i mean i talk a lot about how much we can learn about our clothing and dressing
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when we travel because we have a limited number of things and so sometimes that sets you off towards
00:22:25.220
the uniform because you just have one sport coat or a couple pairs of whatever it is and you start
00:22:30.500
to wear them on most days you know like oh wait a minute this is something i can do this you get
00:22:34.760
back to to new york or wherever you live and you're like oh i just want to stick with this this is
00:22:38.820
very reassuring i don't want all the clothes that are sitting in my closet i want to just stick with
00:22:42.660
what i had and that's that can be a good good way to to know how little you need or to learn about
00:22:48.220
what suits you we're gonna take a quick break for your word from our sponsors and now back to the
00:22:54.980
show here's a question i've seen that i've noticed in the past i wouldn't say like five years like my
00:23:00.400
second half of my 30s you know i mean 40s one thing i've noticed personally is i'm starting to pick
00:23:05.020
up stuff that my dad part of my dad's uniform that i remember i'll pick it like this looks good
00:23:09.940
and i'll put it on like i look like my dad when he was my age because my dad had a uniform his
00:23:14.100
uniform he was a federal game warden so he had to go in the office it was pretty casual it was like
00:23:18.020
wrangler boot cut jeans with a pair of cowboy boots and a peak polo shirt from lands in with
00:23:23.120
this like awesome looking belt and it just looks solid like i got pictures like that's just a just
00:23:27.260
it's a solid solid look and sometimes every now and then i'll pick up a polisher like this looks
00:23:31.220
awesome then i look at it oh this is why i think it looks awesome my dad had a shirt just like this
00:23:35.460
i'm curious did your dads have personal uniforms and how do you think they've influenced your own
00:23:40.380
personal uniform cognizant i think you can my i didn't really i'm not like very influenced by
00:23:46.040
what my father wore although he definitely wore you know very much the same thing all the time but
00:23:51.100
my dad was like very in a very different sort of line of work and career and and basically did
00:23:57.160
you know owned a construction company and so for me it was like it was a very different
00:24:01.500
thing than what my life and whatever now so it doesn't i don't i don't feel like i'm gravitating
00:24:06.720
that direction but you know i think a lot of these things you know because i never learned any of it
00:24:11.120
from my father i feel like it's a lot of it's just like inherent in people right you're sort of you
00:24:15.680
just like have it or you don't in a way but i i'll throw that to you i'm sure you have a good
00:24:21.280
well my i mean it's funny my dad is very stylish and a great dresser but he's much more adventuresome
00:24:27.900
than i am often it's the other way around where the the child is more adventuresome but he he loves
00:24:32.580
color and pattern and he'll wear all sorts of things that i are way too bold for me and he kind
00:24:38.360
of gives me a hard time he thinks i'm too conservative he thinks i'm overdressed which again
00:24:42.840
is not the way these things generally are and i think i like the fact though that as a as a young man
00:24:48.140
he as a boy really he took me to you know the polo store in minneapolis where i grew up and and there
00:24:53.460
was a man who worked there and a guy named paul and you know they they taught me things and put
00:24:57.940
me into clothes that i didn't know if i was ready for and i have this old herringbone sport coat that
00:25:02.900
was you know union made in america thing is like crazy now if you see it huge shoulder pads but it
00:25:08.580
and i didn't like it as a kid and now i see it i actually had a friend take the shoulder pads out and
00:25:13.480
i'm still you know wearing it now you know 35 years later and i think it's good to learn i mean
00:25:19.520
what i learned from my dad is is a lot of lessons and and the importance of knowing lessons even if
00:25:24.960
ultimately you react against those kind of guardrails and i think now we don't take the time to learn
00:25:31.960
sometimes we don't take the time to learn those lessons and to know what we're reacting against i feel
00:25:36.680
like people it's sort of a free-for-all out there and it helps to kind of know the history of some of
00:25:42.300
these things and often we do like you're saying where i'd come back to stuff our fathers did or
00:25:45.840
something you'd see or you're like oh right i like this from that movie or that era maybe it's time to
00:25:50.220
look at this more clearly and then you know you go on ebay for a few hours and you you try to get to
00:25:55.020
the bottom of it you know there it is interesting like and and we're saying you know you theoretically
00:26:00.540
you can't have a uniform if you're young but it's like anything else like you can it is possible
00:26:06.700
and a lot of times like and especially if you look at you know the people that i know that grew up in
00:26:11.740
italy and the culture of dressing in italy and fathers and sons and the way that that education
00:26:17.800
happens between fathers and sons uh it can you know really shape someone's personal style to the
00:26:23.860
point of like they are very young and they know exactly what they like and they have sort of a lot
00:26:28.360
of perspective and you know that's a big cultural thing that happens in italy so it can happen and
00:26:33.520
it can happen here in america it can happen anywhere someone could figure it out very young and just
00:26:38.460
be like this is what i'm gonna wear and and they have it so you know i think it's it's anything is
00:26:43.080
possible it doesn't there's no perfect path to any of this stuff or right or wrong way to do it
00:26:48.500
no and i think something too i've noticed as i've gotten older so when i was younger i was more willing
00:26:53.800
to take risks with things i'd buy something like that looks cool and it's kind of flashy or whatever but
00:26:58.900
now i don't i'm not drawn to that i'm not i'm not about like blending in but like i don't want to
00:27:04.960
like stand out too much does that make sense oh of course i mean that's a huge you know there's a
00:27:10.940
time in your your life when you experiment more when you try to discover more things which is
00:27:15.480
really exciting i mean i i think about you know what if you live in new york and you start to you
00:27:20.100
go to a lot of concerts and clubs and you try movies that you don't you know haven't given a
00:27:24.920
lot of thought to because maybe there was a good review but you didn't even think much about it and
00:27:29.280
now it's like wait a minute if i'm doing something i'm researching what i do am i going to
00:27:33.320
commit to watching this tv show or to buying this thing or or and that's that's just part of i think
00:27:39.200
how we um yeah how we invite new things into our lives we just have so much already there that you're
00:27:46.940
not going to start reading a biography on someone that's going to take you three weeks if unless you
00:27:51.680
really are ready for it yeah when i was in high school i went through a the neo swing movement thing
00:27:58.600
and i was like i just had like gabardine you know camp shirts and like bowling shirts and i had a
00:28:03.760
pair of i got these things they're they're hideous well i thought they were pretty cool at the time it
00:28:07.960
was a pair of black and white wingtip doc martens but like the white part was black and white check
00:28:13.580
and i thought i thought it looked awesome i think i wore them to a prom
00:28:17.300
well i mean the the classic situation is when someone looks like they've got it all figured out and
00:28:24.460
they're like 17 and they're walking out and you can tell they feel like they're the coolest person
00:28:29.160
you know in in the zip code and you're just like wait till you see the photos of this in five years
00:28:35.180
yeah yeah wait can i just say that i i was looking at i found some some profile on tiktok and this kid
00:28:43.500
he talks a lot about fashion he's got like a fairly significant amount of followers and his his videos
00:28:49.220
get a lot of likes and he you know i'm i was kind of interested as you know someone that feels fairly
00:28:54.780
well versed and in the stuff he's covering you know what he was saying and and he you know he's
00:29:00.320
confident in what he's talking about and again he's like got a good following and then there's one thing
00:29:05.560
where he does a tour of my room and i think it's like his dorm room and it's you know in a way like
00:29:11.540
it's it's cute and like it's cool that he's doing it but also like it's very much like a college
00:29:16.440
kid's room and you know he's like trying really hard to like have this you know sensibility and
00:29:22.640
personal style and you know with furniture and all this stuff and design and you know i can't help but
00:29:28.520
to sort of think it's you know amusing in a way because he's so young he doesn't really know
00:29:33.780
but he's speaking with so much conviction and he feels so strongly about what he's what he's saying
00:29:40.380
in the world and it's not a judgment on anyone it's you know that's i feel like part of youth is you
00:29:45.280
do feel very confident in the things you're doing and then when you look back at them you're like
00:29:48.560
wow money money boss tones like i don't know if that was the aesthetic that i should have been going
00:29:53.340
for no i like that michael like that heuristic you use and trying to figure out your uniform is like
00:29:58.640
will this if i look at a picture of this 10 20 years from now what's my reaction going to be going
00:30:03.440
to be like yeah it looks good or i'm gonna be like oh man that's embarrassing and i think my choices
00:30:08.980
when i was in high school i'm like that was that was dumb but i mean it made sense at the time
00:30:13.080
but so that's that's the famous thing though but as soon as you're explaining to a young person you
00:30:16.760
have to be like actually it wasn't just me everybody was doing this or then you know you're
00:30:20.700
in trouble right because then it's like you're swept up in something and you couldn't pull yourself
00:30:25.060
outside of it or see yourself outside of it where you're like no that's just the lapel width at the
00:30:30.360
time or this band was huge or you should have seen michael cain everyone was doing it and that's
00:30:35.640
usually uh i mean but it's human you know and i think that's what's so great about these
00:30:40.140
conversations i mean i always love when someone gets really obsessed with something because even
00:30:45.040
if it's i mean i remember my friend telling me earnestly in high school he's like i only listen
00:30:49.660
to pearl jam that's the only thing i listen to of course that lasted for like six months but that's
00:30:54.440
what it means to be 16 you know you have these strong feelings and it doesn't stop there by the
00:30:59.360
way because you know guys are saving all their money to buy some watch or car or whatever else it is
00:31:04.260
or sneakers that then they either just sit in their you know closet or they kind of resell them
00:31:08.940
so okay let's talk about how you guys can establish their own personal uniform it sounds
00:31:12.540
like it's an organic evolutionary process but like where do you start say you want to be a
00:31:15.740
little more intentional about this like all right you're 35 40 you want to you want to establish
00:31:20.260
your look where would you guys recommend starting well i mean these are big questions i i think i mean
00:31:26.660
i love certain stores and certain types of clothes and and i think it's important that you have
00:31:31.400
kind of a few basic things that look good on most men and i think michael alluded to like the
00:31:36.260
unstructured sport code and i think that's really a good place to start and i think every every man
00:31:41.120
looks good and you know it can be wash cotton it can be a little more um a little it can be tweed it
00:31:48.300
can be whatever you like but i think an unstructured sport code is something you can wear with with you
00:31:53.200
know dress trousers something you can wear with chinos something you can wear with jeans and so i
00:31:56.480
would i would look for that and you can you can you can go to drake's you can go to j crew you can go
00:32:01.000
to ralph warren but you can or just start the process and find see one that you like and start
00:32:05.720
looking on ebay for cheaper ones if you want but i think that that's a really good place to start
00:32:10.160
because that that's something that that can you know kind of be part of your arsenal in a really
00:32:15.320
useful way and i think people will like how it looks on you i mean there's a reason these clothes
00:32:20.580
have been men have been wearing them for a hundred years like it works it's effective it's like you know
00:32:26.180
why does the martini exist like it's a good equation these things make sense way before we've
00:32:31.080
been around and i hope way after we're around and so uh i mean get a good sport coat all right so
00:32:36.400
start off with the sport coat is your recommendation yeah absolutely but one that you can you know when
00:32:41.600
i say unstructured i mean like not a lot of padding in the shoulders and in the chest and so that means
00:32:46.680
like you can even sometimes roll it up if you're in the south i mean look at sid mashburn site i mean
00:32:51.000
these guys live for that sort of thing not just the formal suiting but the an actual
00:32:55.280
sport code i think is really really something that can that can go with you wherever you go
00:32:59.880
michael how about you like where would be your starting point well i just want to say david's
00:33:04.160
starting point is like personal uniform 301 and i would start it i would start at 101 i think the
00:33:09.140
sport codes like maybe advanced lesson you know a couple a couple courses down the line but you know
00:33:15.480
i think this sid mashburn reference is a great one there are places that you can go to there's a lot
00:33:20.860
of great men's stores left in the united states that you can go into and talk to them about what
00:33:26.980
you feel comfortable in and what you like and they can help guide you like it's pretty difficult to go
00:33:33.000
to astray at sid mashburn they're going to help you my my personal recommendation is like there's a lot
00:33:39.700
of things out in the world that have been fundamentally the same for a long time or very consistent over a long
00:33:46.020
period of time like the barber coat like the 501 like certain you know they're you know certain
00:33:52.620
brands like my favorite shoe companies crockett and jones the shoes have sort of never changed
00:33:57.900
and to me that's like a good bet like it's like find those companies and wear those things that are
00:34:04.220
pretty classic it's hard to mess that up in a way the other thing is you know i think you want to
00:34:09.180
think about when you feel the best and what you you know if it's like figure the mental images of
00:34:15.740
yourself where you look the best or what were the scenarios where you felt like you looked really
00:34:20.840
good and try to build on that and replicate that and expand that i think that's a good place to start
00:34:26.500
i think that's a good idea so you're not trying to play dress up when you're trying to establish
00:34:30.220
uniform you don't want to feel like like you're going to prom or you're going to a black tie wedding
00:34:34.600
i think it's the opposite of that you want to feel like you are yourself you know one thing that
00:34:41.120
that that's a really good point that michael makes about enduring design that have been mostly
00:34:46.220
unchanged and if you're if you're feeling less kind of formal than a sport coat i think of the chore
00:34:50.380
jacket is really a useful thing almost every company makes a good one now and that's something
00:34:55.360
that you can wear most days and you can even dress that up or down i mean i wore it with a knit tie
00:35:00.060
to the masters but i think most people are not going to do that but that's a really nice
00:35:04.300
everyday piece if we're speaking in like you know style terms that you can get a lot of use out of
00:35:10.580
and that that will go a lot of places and i think you also want to when you're thinking about the
00:35:16.000
uniform you're thinking about something that's repeatable so that's like the old brooks brothers
00:35:19.880
oxford cloth shirt and you buy a stack of them but you're also thinking about an investment that
00:35:23.840
michael alluded to earlier that you'd have for a long time so if you get a pair of crockett and jones
00:35:28.220
chelsea boots like that's an incredible thing it's a fair amount of money and then you have
00:35:33.160
them for a decade and that's great or alden's or whatever it is and so you kind of want to pick
00:35:37.180
your spots about something like a lacoste shirt that's great like get a stack of them or if they
00:35:42.640
go on sale or whatever and then you're also getting you know like the best the jeans you really love
00:35:47.320
i feel like when you get something that you talk yourself out of or you save a little money then it
00:35:52.020
just ends up unused and you really want to believe in what you're wearing and care about it and then
00:35:56.920
you're gonna then you're gonna wear it more yeah so david in the the newsletter you had about
00:36:01.880
establishing a uniform you talk about base pieces i guess you for you like a unstructured sport coat
00:36:06.420
or chore coat could be a base piece and michael for you like a base piece could be like that
00:36:11.300
that oxford button down could be a base piece that you can add on to thing that's consistent and you can
00:36:17.440
add on to it or take away from it to vary the look depending on your situation yeah i i would say
00:36:23.500
you know even if you want to go to uniqlo and buy button down shirts and khakis from uniqlo and
00:36:28.580
socks and underwear and whatever else and then you maybe spend a little bit more money you know to
00:36:33.240
david's point like buying a shirt jacket or buying a nice sweater or buying a nice pair of shoes or an
00:36:38.700
accessory a bag you know those things where you can i think you can sort of step up and then you know i
00:36:45.240
think then your uniform becomes like the base is like the a couple types of pair of pants that you like
00:36:50.660
and then you mix them with like a couple shirt jackets a sport coat a you know a sweater all
00:36:56.480
these things and and that's how you sort of like build the the variety of your uniform that's that's
00:37:02.420
my take on it i have to say like when i was a young guy and moved to new york like i was living in
00:37:07.600
in men's stores even though i wasn't couldn't afford those clothes like i and i think there's
00:37:12.100
something to be said for that and now we've got the you know instagram in our pocket but i i like to go
00:37:16.840
to barney's and i like to go to bergdorf goodman and i would talk to the guys who work there
00:37:20.360
and and they understood what my stage in life and they didn't put pressure on me and at a good store
00:37:26.360
they won't put pressure on you and if you if you go into to ralph lauren and look at the way the the
00:37:31.060
they have the kind of mannequins rigged up or what the what's in the windows it gives you a sense of
00:37:35.900
kind of how they view things and and you can see what you like from that you can see how much it costs
00:37:40.100
you can see what you think is makes sense for you or what doesn't make sense but it's good to do
00:37:44.820
those things i mean i i go on the sid mashburn website even at this stage in my life and look
00:37:49.480
at how they have a clever way that they show each kind of sport coat if you scroll over it it's got
00:37:54.960
a shirt and tie and then if you scroll over it again it's like with no tie so you can kind of see it
00:37:58.540
worn two different ways and i still get ideas about that or see what i like and ask myself well why do i
00:38:03.400
like that so much or what that's interesting and i'd never thought about doing something that way and i
00:38:07.980
think that that's a good thing that you can still learn and see and and even surprise yourself i mean
00:38:14.020
like you probably look better in a light pink shirt than you think i mean a lot of guys do and i didn't
00:38:19.240
wear pink for a long time and then i did and then i was sort of changed my life or i didn't wear brown
00:38:23.160
and now i wear brown almost exclusively like you do want to give yourself room to evolve and i think
00:38:27.820
that's what we're talking about it isn't like once you set your your uniform you can never change of
00:38:32.820
course these things can rotate or you can wear something and just make a little change i think when i was
00:38:37.140
talking about like if you have a corduroy suit or cords are good like that's a good fabric and i
00:38:42.740
recommend like finding cords that you like and as maybe a corduroy sport coat that you like and then
00:38:47.500
you just it's not something you have to be delicate with or depending on where you live like a harris tweed
00:38:52.180
coat like these are things that are are great and you can get cheap ones on ebay and and really kind
00:38:56.980
of live in it for a while and and get it dirty throw it in the laundry i do all sorts of stuff i've put
00:39:02.760
seersucker coats that seem too kind of precious i just threw it in the laundry and then they were
00:39:07.180
twice as wrinkly and then i was felt better about it oddly so you mentioned that getting inspiration
00:39:11.820
like going into men's stores like for me early on like you know late 20s early 30s i would go to
00:39:17.120
blogs i would go to continuous lane i take ivy dye workwear dye i mean i and that's where i would
00:39:24.040
get my style inspiration i feel like that is has it all moved to instagram now where's your guys
00:39:28.540
like where do you recommend guys going to get solid inspiration because i even i feel like
00:39:32.660
a lot of the magazines they're not like the style advice or it's just it's not very good i don't
00:39:38.300
that's my it's just like here are the 20 boots you need this winter and it's like this is not useful
00:39:43.460
for me because i think it's kind of all over there's there are still sites like dye workwear that are
00:39:49.620
interesting there are still sites out there that have a much more edited point of view which i think
00:39:55.780
is more helpful if you identify with that um and then it's like a mix of of instagram and all these
00:40:02.620
other things that will help serve as an inspiration point i think it's the mainstream fashion media is
00:40:09.000
a little bit different now than it was and it's driven by different things and part of that's like
00:40:12.960
commerce and part of it's much more fashion with a capital f than maybe it used to be used to be much
00:40:19.380
more about like service and educating guys and sort of classic style and now it's much more fashion
00:40:26.040
driven so i think but you need to find the people that you can identify with and if that's like matt
00:40:31.140
pranick and william brown project or or whatever it is and and then you sort of figure out all right
00:40:35.860
these are the people that i feel like i want to model my personal style after you can sort of go
00:40:41.200
from there i think that's a really good point that michael makes and i also think the danger of
00:40:46.260
instagram like i really love the original photos when i say original like 15 or 20 years ago photos from
00:40:52.520
piti womo where it was actual italian men and what they were wearing or japanese buyers and what they
00:40:57.700
were wearing now with social media kind of accelerated to such a speed those things feel
00:41:04.600
often very mannered very theatrical very self-aware and very ridiculous to me so i think you have to be
00:41:11.740
careful like you don't want to dress like you were expecting to be photographed like that's that's
00:41:16.300
craziness you know that that's not a way to live in the world unless you're really you know nick
00:41:20.220
wooster and there's only one nick wooster so you can look at these places but you it's sort of like
00:41:25.380
you look at them and then you pour little milk on it to like mellow out the coffee right because
00:41:30.280
it's just too some of these things are very intense and these guys are are getting closed and experiencing
00:41:36.320
them in a way that isn't really you know it's like they're living in a photo shoot and if you're in a
00:41:40.660
photo shoot some things make sense and then when you're out in the world they make a lot less sense
00:41:44.440
you know and i think you want to i think one of the things we're talking about is like where you where
00:41:49.220
you're comfortable and what your life requires like are you going to meetings are you you know
00:41:53.880
physically active the way your dad was brett if he's you know going out as a you're working in
00:41:58.680
the forest service or whatever it is that people need to use or are they going to be walking in mud
00:42:03.880
are they going to be in a boardroom are they going to be reassuring investors and then they're going to
00:42:08.080
be doing things very differently and that's um i mean if people say things don't matter the clothes
00:42:14.140
don't matter just think about the people that you want working for you and how you would want your
00:42:18.020
lawyer or accountant to dress if you're getting your your uh your your taxes done do you want the
00:42:23.580
guy to be wearing a metallica shirt i'm not sure i i think it's like the if you have good personal
00:42:28.700
style it's a bonus for you if you know i think it's not it's not about losing points or you know
00:42:34.400
it's it's about you have an opportunity to present yourself as unique or special or different or
00:42:39.760
whatever that is that to me is like the big win with having good personal style it's not about like
00:42:45.740
conformity and fitting in and making sure you're dressed appropriately for your role
00:42:50.380
uh when you guys find a piece of clothing that you think is going to be a part of your uniform
00:42:54.280
for a while do you buy multiples of it of course i mean that's like a huge deal like when it or if
00:43:01.360
something seems like it's going to be shut down or i mean or if you just know something's great like
00:43:06.240
when they were still making brooks brothers oxford cloth button-down shirts in in america and you you
00:43:12.340
knew that and maybe there that was a delicate balance there i got a stack of them i mean it has to do
00:43:18.460
with where you are in your life and and what your priorities are in your budget but if you find a
00:43:23.160
bottle of wine you like man get some and if you find if you're traveling and you see espadrilles or
00:43:27.940
if you even master's hats it's yeah get on that i like the wine reference that's pretty interesting i
00:43:34.140
mean you'll be happy if you buy a few cases of some wine that you love you'll be happy in five years
00:43:38.940
that you did it for me like buying a couple or buying things in my uniform all depends on
00:43:44.480
with the brand and what it is and what it costs but i know that you know like brands like patagonia
00:43:50.160
if you love something from patagonia they phase out things all the time so if you if there's a jacket
00:43:56.320
you love and you wear it all the time it's worth buying a few because they probably won't carry it
00:44:01.400
through the other time i'm buying like multiples is you know i wear these canvas sneakers from muji
00:44:06.700
and their website they rarely have them in stock and the stores are it's always like sporadic if i
00:44:14.540
can find them so when i do find them i buy five pairs at the same time and they're not expensive
00:44:18.980
but i'm like i don't want to risk you know i don't trust them enough almost to be able to always have
00:44:25.100
them you know so and like i i used to buy this sweater every year from this store in alabama that i
00:44:31.140
love called harrison limited and they would sell this like super super soft lambs will shetland
00:44:36.400
sweater and i would buy every fall i would buy one it was like my annual thing and i would sort of call
00:44:41.160
the shop and be like what colors do you have and then i'd say all right send me the green one
00:44:44.940
and they'd mail it to me and then they stopped carrying the sweater and i'm like all right now i
00:44:50.280
need to figure out like who made the sweater where else can i find it and you know i would have been
00:44:55.060
better off just buying a few at you know not just dragging it out yeah i had a pair there's a pair of
00:45:00.560
runners or sneakers that i got they're like a replica of some vintage french army sneaker and i
00:45:06.900
love it and they stopped making whoever decided to make it stop making it i can't i need a new pair
00:45:11.360
and i'm out of luck it's and it was a good look it's that's like a classic situation where you
00:45:17.080
you think something like and for me even like fishing gear like certain waiters that when i was
00:45:23.340
younger they seem like too expensive and then ever since then the waiters have been getting crazy so
00:45:27.660
i'm like on a mad hunt to find these 20 year old waiters which of course doesn't work or
00:45:32.040
waiting boots and and if you see something you like well i mean it's actually interesting because
00:45:38.020
michael was talking earlier about these companies that continue to have the same product that's like
00:45:41.880
a good barometer of the values of a place if they do something well and they you know that they're
00:45:48.140
going to continue to have that it's the same way if you go to some beloved restaurant and you know
00:45:51.960
you can get this great dish that they're going to keep doing that and that that that that's a sign
00:45:56.340
of of what they how they want you to interact with them that you they want you to trust them that they
00:46:01.000
want you to come back and that you can always get this barber jacket these red wing boots these 501s
00:46:07.520
that that tells you a lot about those places how do you know if your personal uniform should change
00:46:13.460
is it something intentional or does it just kind of happen naturally you just find i'm wearing this
00:46:17.740
thing a lot this year this is part of my uniform now is that how it happens yeah i think it's i think
00:46:23.540
part of that is like recognizing the wins when they're happening and saying you know that i feel
00:46:28.440
good wearing this you know i should just i should stop thinking about i should stop spending time
00:46:33.940
thinking about you know what i'm going to wear all the time and stick with the things i feel good
00:46:38.560
about i think you just start to sort of be it's a very liberating sense in a way where you're like i've
00:46:44.120
arrived at this and i know i like it i don't have to worry about it's one less thing i need to worry
00:46:48.660
about from now on right and you start to start to just drop things away and then you know repeat the
00:46:55.220
things that work really well for you yeah i mean sometimes i notice that my clothes have shrunk now i
00:47:00.420
know it's just like your body changes right it's not the clothes obviously and you you make some change
00:47:05.680
about what makes sense for what you're doing i mean if you have a kid or you're traveling to us and
00:47:10.640
you're in a hot place and something works or something doesn't i mean some of what we're
00:47:14.580
talking about is like where design and function converge right and when something makes sense
00:47:21.380
because it i don't know you're carrying a camera in your pocket so you need bigger bigger pockets i
00:47:26.100
mean that's literally how some of these things happen a lot of the clothes we're talking about
00:47:29.920
have existed for a long time and that's why you know a safari jacket or a chore jacket or something
00:47:35.360
that the army developed was to solve certain problems and you might have those problems you're
00:47:41.000
carrying certain things and you need clothes that meet your purposes and maybe your you know your
00:47:46.500
coloration changes like my beard is gray now that's great and that changes things like what colors i
00:47:51.720
should wear i don't look the same as i used to and those and you want to and that's all right you want
00:47:56.540
to evolve that way and i think it's natural that your clothes change as you get you know get older and
00:48:02.200
your your kind of place in the world changes and that's something to be embraced i think so let's
00:48:07.000
say some guys listening to this and think okay i want to start developing my personal you know refine
00:48:10.620
it parting advice like where's one thing they can start doing today to start making that happen for
00:48:15.420
themselves well i think you got to think about what you like your comfort level and what you're
00:48:20.500
trying to do i mean i always encourage guys to dress up a little bit i just think it's it's nice to
00:48:25.580
try harder than to try less hard and if you try a little harder than in the long run all that will
00:48:30.440
become easier you set a higher bar for yourself and so i think it's nice to dress up a little bit
00:48:34.860
i mean i i think it's you know it doesn't mean you have to live with it forever i think one of the
00:48:40.960
things we're talking about is is a little bit of experimentation which is natural and then finding
00:48:45.160
a new level for yourself you know i think a big part of this is you know what what you could do today
00:48:50.040
is be open-minded to looking better and to putting in a little bit more effort and and dressing a
00:48:56.620
little bit better and starting to do it and make it a ritual and and i think once you do you'll
00:49:02.340
appreciate that you have put in that effort and i think that goes a long way and just being maybe a
00:49:07.260
little bit more introspective about who you want to be and how you want to project yourself i think
00:49:12.040
would be a great place to start well guys it's been a great conversation is there some place people
00:49:16.360
can go to learn more about your respective work well yeah i mean my my book the optimist uh the case for
00:49:21.560
the fly fishing life which we discussed on a previous episode i've gotten a lot of good feedback
00:49:25.500
about that oh oh that's sweet i'm glad to hear that thank you that's that's out now still out and
00:49:30.200
the paperback is coming soon and then my newsletter the contender comes out every week and then i have
00:49:35.960
the podcast with michael central division our conversation every week too which you can get
00:49:39.960
from either subscribing to the contender or his newsletter a continuous lean michael i'll lead you
00:49:44.780
right into it yeah oh thank you david that was very very well done i wish i had a book to say that i
00:49:50.100
had written but uh all i have is a newsletter and it's just acl.news is my newsletter well michael
00:49:56.600
williams david coggins thanks for his time it's been a pleasure thanks thanks brett my guests today
00:50:02.860
were david coggins and michael williams check out the respective newsletters david's can be found at
00:50:06.920
the contender.substack.com and michael's can be found at acl.news if you subscribe to either of the
00:50:12.780
newsletters you can get access to their podcast central division where they talk about style fly fishing
00:50:17.480
golf you name it they discuss it and make sure to check out our show notes at aom.is slash
00:50:22.640
personal uniform we've linked to some of the brands and clothing pieces mentioned in the show
00:50:26.380
as well as that iconic picture of david and michael at the masters we discussed check it out
00:50:33.140
well that wraps up another edition of the a1 podcast make sure to check out our website at
00:50:44.320
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00:50:48.100
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00:51:16.220
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