PREVIEW: Epochs #226 | Magellan: Part VII
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Summary
Ferdinand Magellan and his crew set out on a circumnavigation of the globe in the early 16th century, when they set out to find the opening to the Straits of Magellan. But how did they find it? And what was it really like to be on the other side of the world?
Transcript
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Hello and welcome back to Epochs, where once again I shall be continuing my story, the narrative
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of Ferdinand Magellan's terrifying circumnavigation of the globe, the first man ever to sail around
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the world. Last time, if you remember, I think we left off just about where his four remaining
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ships had found the inlet or the mouth, the opening to the Straits of Magellan. Obviously
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now they're called the Straits of Magellan, then it was just an uncharted strait. They
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were looking for a way through South America to get to the ocean on the other side. They
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knew there would be an ocean on the other side, the Pacific, but no one had ever really
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gone, no one at all had gone round the bottom of South America, which actually Drake does
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a bit later in the century. What is it, the 1570s? Drake does that? Drake doesn't take the
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Straits through Magellan, he just sails all the way around the entire bottom of South America.
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But Magellan's looking for the fastest way through, convinced that there's a straight through,
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which there is, and so they've found it now. They're reasonably sure. There's various ways
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to tell the way the tide flows and if the water is deep enough and if it's salty, if it's fresh
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water, then it almost certainly won't be a straight through to another ocean. There's various ways
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to tell and they were convinced, rightly, that this was a straight through the South American
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continent through to the other side. So let's pick up the story from about there. Or actually,
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quickly, just to say, I think last time we left off, they hadn't quite reached that straight.
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So a few little details about how they finally find it. There was a few more weeks from leaving
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Port St. Julian, if you remember that, there's still a few more weeks sailing down the south
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coast, sorry, down the east coast of Argentina, southwards. And one of the other survivors,
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other than Pigafetta, that wrote an account of it was San Martin, and he wrote this, quote,
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and he's talking about on October the 11th. Quote, an eclipse of the sun was awaited.
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They already knew when eclipses were going to be. An eclipse of the sun was awaited,
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which in this meridian should have occurred at eight minutes past 10 in the morning.
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When the sun reached an altitude of 42 and a half degrees, it appeared to alter in brilliancy
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and to change to a somber color as if inflamed of a dull crimson, and this without any cloud
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intervening between ourselves and the solar body. Its clearness appeared as it might
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in Castile in the months of July and August, when they are burning the straw in the surrounding
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country. And then throughout October, they experienced more storms. October 1520, we're
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talking, 1520. Now that region is very, very stormy, extremely stormy, sort of non-stop,
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almost, an exaggeration, but even in summer. Again, these are the, oh wait, it's not summer,
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is it? Okay. And so eventually, after more weeks of sailing south, the wind changes and
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they catch the wind and it blows from the north to the south, where they've had to tack into
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the wind for the longest time. Now suddenly it's plain sailing and the sails are billowing
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and they're speeding along, and Magellan is sort of scrutinizing every inlet. And finally,
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they find a cape with what is called a broad sandbank strewn with skeletons of whales. It's
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obviously a migration route for the, for whales. And this is, this is the inlet to what later
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becomes called the Straits of Magellan. And one other person who survived and wrote about
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it, someone called Vasquito Gallego wrote, quote, as the way became narrower, i.e. this
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inlet, which they hoped was the strait, but could still be a river. As the way became narrower,
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we thought it was a river. Continuing that way, we found deep seawater and strong currents
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appearing to be a strait and the mouth of a big gulf that might be discharging into it.
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Burgreen says, Magellan ordered his ships to sail into the gulf, and when they were well
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within its embrace, he saw it, the outlet leading west, just as he prayed it would.
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Magellan had finally found the strait. On October the 21st, Albo, the pilot, recorded the great
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event in his log. And this is Albo writing, we saw an opening like a bay, and it has to
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be the entrance. On the right hand, a very long spit of land, and the cape which we discovered
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before this spit is called the Cape of the 11,000 Virgins, and the spit of land is in
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52 degrees latitude, 52 and a half longitude, and from the spit of land to the other part,
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there may be a matter of five leagues. Burgreen goes on. This is what he saw, a series of mounds
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covered with tufts of grass, rising approximately 130 feet from the water. A later explorer described
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the cape as, three great mountains of sand that look like islands but are not. There was no mistaking
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the strait for a bay or an inlet. A broad waterway cut deep into the impenetrable landmass along which
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the fleet had been sailing for months. Pigafetta exalted at the sight of the waterway. And this is
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Pigafetta. After going and setting course to the 52nd degree toward the said Antarctic pole,
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on the festival of the 11,000 Virgins, we found by a miracle the strait which we called the Cape of
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the 11,000 Virgins. After all the ordeals suffered by the Armada, the discovery of the strait did lay claim
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to being a miracle. Now people have often wondered, why did Magellan, why was Magellan so convinced that
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such a strait even existed? And people, historians, scholars, have argued over that ever since.
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And, you know, it's not entirely clear. You know, we don't know exactly what Magellan did or didn't
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know what he was party to. But, you know, people have obviously poured over this story in extraordinary
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detail over the years. And, you know, we know what he's likely to have known. There was various
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chroniclers and various explorers before. There was someone called Martin of Bohemia or Martin
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Behame, which he had a famous, he had made a famous globe and a famous chart. And for some reason, even
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though he'd never been there, said there was a strait through there. There was also someone else called
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Johannes Schroener, who was a Nuremberg mapmaker, who also had shown that there was a strait somewhere
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there. And so whatever, you know, Magellan almost certainly, almost certainly would have known of
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these people. It was sort of his job to be aware of things like this. But then other scholars say,
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no, he would never have met Martin of Bohemia. And there's no evidence that he ever saw his maps or
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his globe. So we can't say that for sure. But for whatever reason, Magellan was convinced, I mean,
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maybe it was the case that he just needed it to be there. You know, you fake it till you make it.
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He just really, really hoped that such a thing existed. But well, it proved to be real. Because
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it could have been the case. It's like the Northwest Passage, the famous Northwest Passage
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through Canada sort of doesn't exist. But people thought it might all the way up to what, the 19th
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century. But there is one through South America in any way. You could go all the way around if you
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really wanted to, like Drake. Bergering says, quote, now that Magellan had finally found the strait,
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he faced 300 miles of nautical nightmare, end quote. So yeah, we'll put up maps so you can see.
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It's one thing to have found this big sort of inlet. It's another thing to actually work your way
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through it, because it's sort of a maze, a maze of waterways and fjords. It's not just straight
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through. You don't just keep sailing west. Keep heading west and you'll definitely find the Pacific.
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No, it's a feat of navigation and sort of intuition and skill to find your way through it. You could
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spend years exploring every which way. And you know, Magellan doesn't have years. So you've got
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to do it in the most efficient, most professional way. And well, he kind of does. It's sort of
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remarkable, really. Again, when you look at it on a map, sort of a satellite map, again,
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it looks straight, it looks relatively straightforward. You know, it's a pretty clear way through,
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almost at a glance. But yeah, that's looking at it from space. If you're actually there at sea level,
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you don't know which way to go. You just don't know which way to go. Any way could have been the
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right way or a dead end. But one of the things they do know is that quite often the Straits are
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quite deep, particularly near the Atlantic still. Pigafetta wrote, in this place, i.e. still right at the
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beginnings of the Straits, in this place, it was not possible to anchor because no bottom was found.
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Therefore, it was necessary to put cables ashore of 25 or 30 cubits in length, in order to not just,
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you know, at night or something, just be washed back out to sea and lost. But they couldn't find
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the bottom. Their anchors, the cables, the tethers, the ropes that held their anchors weren't long
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enough. So that tells you something, doesn't it? Bergerine says, quote, Magellan was gripped with
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the conviction that he had found the waterway to the Spice Islands. He ordered Albo to record the
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Straits twists and turns as accurately as possible. And this is some of Albo's words. Again, he wrote,
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Within this bay we found a strait which may be a league in width, and from its mouth to the spit
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you look east and west, and on the left-hand side of the bay there is a great elbow within which
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are many shoals. But when you are in the strait, take care of some shallows, less than three leagues
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from the entrance of the straits, and after them you will find two islets of sand, and then you will
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find the channel open. Proceed in it at your pleasure without hesitation. Passing this strait
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we found another small bay, and then we found another strait, and the same kind as the first,
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and from one mouth to the other runs east and west, and the narrow part runs northeast and southwest.
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And after we had come out of the two straits of narrows, we found a very large bay, and we found
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some islands, and we anchored at one of them. Bergerine. No doubt Albo had specific landmarks in mind,
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as he wrote, but the strait defied even this precise chronicler, and his directions proved
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difficult for subsequent visitors to interpret. You know, it's such a mangled mess of broken
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landscape. Not a mess, I mean it's beautiful, bleak and beautiful, but as far as navigating through
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the straits, just like this terrible mess. And even though they, and later people describe it quite well,
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it's very very difficult from their descriptions to actually piece together exactly the route they took.
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So they plunge straight into it, they head straight into it. You know, as far as Magellan is concerned,
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his mindset always is, right up to the end, is definitely, definitely just plough ahead,
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you know, kind of regardless of any danger, or the odds against them, or the difficulties of the
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task ahead. Just plough straight into it. I mean, it's the mindset you would need, isn't it, to plot
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uncharted waters. There's no other way of doing it. Pigafetta says, quote,
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within days, the straits gloomy enchantment impressed itself on the crew, and they negotiated
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its frigid waters. They observed thickly vegetated, forbidding shores sliding past,
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cloaked in eerie shadows. And so there's one thing to say, this is one of my favourite parts
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of the Magellan story, certainly one of my favourite parts of Lawrence Bergring's book,
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Over the Edge of the World, is that the land of Tierra del Fuego is part of Chile these days,
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I believe. Well, it is. And I'm fascinated by that. I'm fascinated by sort of Antarctica.
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I'm fascinated by sort of the high Himalayas, places that are dangerous and very, very bleak,
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but also beautiful. And some of the descriptions, Bergring and people like Pigafetta and Albo
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tell us, are lovely. It's sort of not top of my bucket list to go and visit in real life,
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but if I had endless money and time to go travelling, I would love to see that part of the world.
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You know, very forbidding, very sort of oppressive. If you were in a real survival situation,
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you know, without all the modern, without all the mod cons of the modern world, it would be
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something maybe terrifying, but still definitely sort of undeniably beautiful. We told all about
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how Magellan and his men were worried about any indigenous cannibals turning up, although this
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land at this point is almost entirely uninhabited by a people, almost entirely. They certainly see
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hardly any, or no one, really. We know that there would have been a few scattered indigenous
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peoples around, but hardly any, and Magellan doesn't really see any. He sees a little bit
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of evidence of some that might have been around, might have been around a long time ago, but
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they don't encounter any, quote-unquote, Indians in the land of Tierra del Fuego. And that's
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what Magellan called it, Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire, because at one point he sees,
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or they all see, some smoke, quite a far way inland, quite a long way away from where they're
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sailing, they see smoke rising up. And they think that's indigenous peoples, but it wasn't,
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almost certainly wasn't. It seems like it must have been a lightning strike or something,
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because, and that's why they called it the land of fire, because they saw this smoke,
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which was a fire. And it must have been a natural fire, most historians think, because there's just
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very, very little evidence of peoples or any settlements in that region, certainly at that
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time. But we don't really know. It's a little bit inexplicable why Magellan and his men saw smoke on
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the horizon, but that's what they saw. And because of that, they called it the land of fire, but it's
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not lost on anyone. That's not a very good name for it. It's a land of storms. It's a land of wind
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and storms and rain and ice and snow and glaciers. It's, I mean, perhaps they were being ironic. I
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mean, they must have been being ironic. It's sort of the furthest thing from the land of fire. It's
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a land of sort of endless, bitter, relentless wind and storms. Well, Berggren says that Tierra del
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Fuego covers more than 28,000 square miles of glaciers, lakes and moraines. So yeah, it's something
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closer to Antarctica than to a desert, you know, land of fire. You might think it's something like
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a desert. It's just, it's just a funny, odd, inappropriate name to call it. I mean,
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Berggren describes it thusly. He says, quote, gloomy, ragged, low hanging clouds scudded over the
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mountains, hugging the fields through which the ships expectantly glided. Occasionally the laden
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mists parted to allow sunlight gleaming with painful brilliance to stream down on the impenetrable
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land and the surging water. So one thing to say is that the waters are very, very calm.
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You know, they've been used to for months now having to brave the South Atlantic. Massive
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waves, terrible, terrible seas. Well, these straits obviously are nothing like that. They're
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pretty placid. They're almost like a swimming pool, placid. So that's nice. That's a welcome
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relief, of course. You know, you can just glide through them. And they're so far south, just
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to say that it's, it's dark most of the time. A bit later somewhere, I think I've got the
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quote, they've only get sort of about three hours of sunlight a day. So it's sort of dust. It's not
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necessarily pitch black, like the middle of the night, but it's sort of dusk or dark nearly the
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whole time. And they've got to sail during at least some of those hours, which is a little bit
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worrying. Usually these fields and straits are relatively wide. You're not sort of, you know,
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you're not sort of having to worry and deep. So you're not necessarily having to worry too much
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about hitting the sides or running into shoals or sandbanks. Nonetheless, sailing at night in
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unknown waters, just in and of itself is, you know, not really fun. You'd rather not do that.
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But there's very little light. That's how far south they are. Bergerin continues, quote,
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the sunlight, when it managed to break through, could be pitiless at this low latitude and appear
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to illuminate the landscape with a grey polarised radiance. Striations of light played over the
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stony beaches and the glaciers, frosting the mountaintops. Although Magellan traversed the
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strait at the warmest time of year, when the wind, for all its bite, was at its lightest and the
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snows had receded, the enormous glaciers were plentiful and awe-inspiring. Snow nearly always
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fell atop the glaciers. They were endlessly renewing themselves. And at lower altitudes, the ice melted
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into narrow waterfalls, cascading over the granite outcroppings into the fjords. Invisible to the
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sailors, the glaciers extended across the landscape, running through 30 miles of mountains before
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shearing off at the water's edge. As they continued to sail through the strait, Magellan's crew observed
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a solid wall of ice rising majestically before them, 200 feet, 500 feet and more. They were ancient
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edifices, these glaciers, some of them 10,000 years old, and they looked it, with their grimy faces
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deeply pockmarked and weathered. Consisting of packed snow and ice, the glaciers never rested.
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They cracked, they groaned, they roared, and they threatened to decompose and tumble onto the
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beaches and the water below. Their crystalline towers leaned out over the water in irregular
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columns, like rotting teeth in a decaying jaw. They inclined ever more precipitously over the
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placid water, until one column after another, warmed by the sun and buffeted by the wind,
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carved and collapsed amid a cloud of icy dust with its shattering report, followed by a drum-like
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roll of thunder, low and resonant, announcing destruction. Again, the land of fire is not
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really an apt name, is it? Berggring goes on. To everyone's surprise, the glaciers were neither
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white nor grey, but a light, almost iridescent blue, that in the crevasses and seams darkened to
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a deep azure. The countless chunks of ice broken off from the glaciers, some as large as a whale,
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others as small as a penguin, had the same enigmatic bluish cast as they bobbed past the ships,
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an armada of sculpted ice drifting towards a mysterious location, end quote. Yeah, you get
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that in Antarctica as well. The type of, you know, ultra-pure ice, it's the deepest blue colour.
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It's to do with light and the way light refracts through water or frozen water. Sometimes you get
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this sort of amazingly blue ice. Here's a little description of it from a chap called Francis
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Pretty, who sailed with Sir Francis Drake about 60 years later. He said, quote,
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The land on both sides is very huge and mountainous, the lower mountains whereof,
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although they be monstrous and wonderful to look upon for their height. There are others which in
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height exceed them in strange manner, reaching themselves above their fellows so high that between
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them did appear three regions of clouds. This strait is extremely cold, with frost and snow
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continually. The trees seem to stoop with the burden of the weather, and yet are green continually,
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and many good and sweet herbs do very plentifully grow and increase under them, end quote. So yeah,
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absolutely windswept. There's certain trees, you can find it actually all over the coastlines
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throughout the world, where there's certain winds that just continually blow in one direction,
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and the trees are sort of completely slanted one way, where they're just endlessly buffeted by a wind
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that always blows in the same direction. We've got an account here from a historian, Samuel Morrison,
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who sailed through that way in 1972, so a modern account, and he wrote this.
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One seems to be entering a completely new and strange world, a veritable never-never land. The
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strait never freezes except along its edges, and the evergreen Antarctic beach with its tiny matted leaves
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grows thickly along the lower mountain slopes. The middle slopes support a coarse grass, which turns
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bronze in the setting sun, and above the higher peaks are snow-covered the year-round. When it rains
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in the strait, it snows at 6,000 feet, end quote. Vergreen goes on. Although the sky was generally
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overcast, especially at night, it cleared at brief intervals to reveal a dazzling array of constellations
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competing for attention with an unnaturally brilliant Milky Way. The familiar Orion's belt,
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the Big Dipper, mingled with the unfamiliar constellations of the Southern Hemisphere,
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especially the Southern Cross, whose presence reinforced Magellan's conviction that the Almighty
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was looking over the entire venture, even here at the end of the world. You know, there'd been
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enough exploring in the Southern Hemisphere by this point that they were aware of the Southern
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constellations. It wasn't an entirely new thing to them. Although later, we'll talk all about the
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Magellanic Cloud, which is named after Magellan, which you only see in the Southern Hemisphere,
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I understand. Vergreen continues, quote. Once the Armada had negotiated the first two narrows within
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the strait, Magellan became increasingly cautious about the hazards ahead and decided to scout the
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strait's uncharted waters. The Captain General sent his cousin, Alvaro de Mosquita, to go in his vessel,
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San Antonio, through that mouth in order to find out what was inside, while he and the other ships
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remained anchored in the wide part of the entrance until they knew what was what, Vasquido Galigo
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noted. Actually, Magellan dispatched two ships, the other was Concepcion, but San Antonio took most of
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the risks, Galigo goes on. Alvaro de Mosquita went for 50 leagues up the strait, and in some parts he found
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it so narrow that between one shore and the other, there was no more distance than one Lombard shot, which is
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still fairly decent, you know, like you're not, wouldn't necessarily be scared of being crushed or
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anything, but you know, pretty close also, if you're used to channels that are, you know, hundreds and
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hundreds of meters wide. And the strait turned towards the west whence the sea currents came in
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full force, so strong that they could not go on except with difficulty, Galigo remembered. Mosquita
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turned back, saying that he thought that the great water came out of a big gulf, and his advice was to go in
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search of its end and see the mystery, because not without reason came that water with such force
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from that direction, end quote. And he's quite right. Again, these very, very experienced sailors
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knew their business, and they could quite often tell when they're on the right track. I mean, it's
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not, it's kind of surprising, it's kind of not surprising that Magellan's able to navigate his way
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through this maze of fjords first time, relatively quickly, because they were very, very good at their
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job. It was exactly the sort of thing that they were sort of born to do. So the other two ships,
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Victoria and Trinidad, sort of stay put relatively near the Atlantic side of the strait, while the two
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other ships go off to explore San Antonio and Conception. And Magellan stays with Trinidad, you know,
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his flagship. And they go off and they're gone for days, basically. And anyone who remembers the days
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before mobile phones, you know, I'm old enough to remember that when I was a kid, a lot of people
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listening to this will be old enough to remember that even in like, you know, even in the 1990s,
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you'd have to rendezvous with people, right? You say, I'll meet you at this station under the clock,
00:22:16.720
I'll meet you at Waterloo station under the clock, like in months time, in two years time,
00:22:20.740
at noon, or I'll meet you outside McDonald's on Saturday at half past one in the afternoon.
00:22:25.500
And you just had to rendezvous, you wouldn't speak to them again. So you just had to rendezvous
00:22:29.380
with them. So we don't, we just don't live in that world now. Younger people have never really
00:22:33.620
known that. But the second you're supposed to meet someone and they're not there, you phone them,
00:22:37.760
or you text them, right? You message them one way or another, just immediately. Where are you?
00:22:41.960
What's going on? Well, before the days of telecommunications, you just had to wait. You just,
00:22:47.520
you just wait under that clock at Waterloo station. You just wait outside McDonald's
00:22:51.340
and hope you saw them. You might wait for ages, hours and hours, and hopefully you rendezvous and
00:22:56.760
meet up and all's well and good. But sometimes they wouldn't. Sometimes for whatever reason,
00:23:00.520
they couldn't make it. And they couldn't let you know. With the best will in the world,
00:23:03.800
they couldn't let you know. So you just never meet up again. That's totally happened again.
00:23:07.720
Anyone old enough must have known that's happened. I'll meet up with my mates to go to the cinema
00:23:12.160
on this certain day, at a certain time, and they didn't turn up. Or you might be on the other side
00:23:18.300
of that ledger. For whatever reason, you couldn't turn up and you couldn't let them know. So it's
00:23:24.800
too late to write a letter. So anyway, Trinidad and Victoria just wait there for a few days. And
00:23:30.460
you know, they don't know what's happened to them. If something has, if something untoward has
00:23:34.740
happened, if they've got wrecked or got completely lost, they would never know. As far as
00:23:39.280
Magellan is concerned, they would have just disappeared off the face of the earth. Just poof,
00:23:43.460
disappeared into nothing. So they're waiting there and they're taking longer than Magellan
00:23:47.120
thought they would. So it's starting to get a bit worried. But eventually they do come back.
00:23:52.800
And we're told it's a dramatic reunion. That's how Bergering describes it. And Pigafetta wrote
00:23:57.860
about it. He said, quote, we thought that they had been wrecked first by reason of the violent
00:24:03.200
storm. Oh, a storm blew up at this point as well. First by reason of a violent storm. The second,
00:24:07.980
because two days had passed and they had not appeared. And also because of certain smoke
00:24:12.960
signals made by two of their men who had been sent ashore to advise us. And so while in suspense,
00:24:18.700
we saw the two ships with sails full and banners flying to the wind coming towards us. When they
00:24:24.500
neared us in this manner, they suddenly discharged a number of mortars and burst into cheers. Then
00:24:30.260
all together, thanking God and the Virgin Mary, we went to seek the strait further on. I.e. they think
00:24:35.820
they found the way through already. Bergering says, the rejoicing, the triumph over the weather and
00:24:40.620
geography and the feeling of being blessed by divine authority were new to Magellan's men. For
00:24:46.420
the better part of two years, they had been deeply mistrustful of their captain general,
00:24:51.540
divided from one another by language and culture and prone to mutiny. After passing through these
00:24:56.600
ordeals, they had become united and saw in each other not subversion or menace, but the possibility
00:25:02.740
of ultimate triumph. If you enjoyed that preview, please consider heading over to lotusseaters.com