The Joe Rogan Experience - November 27, 2020


Joe Rogan Experience #1571 - Emily Harrington

Topics
free climbing El Capitan climbing progression climbing training schedule heart rate monitoring and recovery tracking climbing obsession free soloing climbing injury recovery imposter syndrome climbing Olympics bouldering competitions speed climbing eating disorders in climbing anorexia struggles climbing and calorie burn free soloing climbing career journey Mount Everest guiding issues cryotherapy benefits cryotherapy and sauna benefits restless leg syndrome Yoga Glow membership nature and environmental appreciation outdoors term
Hosted by
Joe Rogan
Mentioned
Alex Honnold Lynn Hill Wim Hof El Cap Jamie Tommy Caldwell George Mallory Sandy Irvine Fear Buck Joe Rogan Podcast Golden Gate Nepal Alpenglow Expeditions.com Eliza Schlesinger Michael Jackson Bob Caffarella Rhonda Patrick John Cleese Freedom Riders Norma Tech and 7 more
Joe Rogan Experience #1570 - Willie D & Mike Judge Joe Rogan Experience #1572 - Moxie Marlinspike

Episode Stats


Length

2 hours and 11 minutes

Words per minute

177.77

Word count

23,374

Sentence count

2,702

Harmful content

Misogyny

30

sentences flagged

Toxicity

148

sentences flagged

Hate speech

10

sentences flagged


Summary

Summaries generated with gmurro/bart-large-finetuned-filtered-spotify-podcast-summ .

Emily Harrington is the first woman to scale El Capitan via its notoriously difficult Golden Gate Route. She did it in less than 24 hours, and she did it without a rope. She talks about how she got there, and what it's like living on the wall. She also tells us about the time she almost died trying to climb the route, and how she managed to get back to the base of the mountain after the fall. She's a friend of mine, and I think she's one of the most amazing people I've ever met. She's also a rock star in the rock climbing world, and you should know who she is if you haven't heard her story. Emily is a rock climber and rock star climber. She has been in the past and she's in the future. And she does it all with a smile on her face and aplomb on her shoulders. Check it out! The Joe Rogan Experience is a podcast by day, for by night, all day. It's a show about rock climbing. It's not your average rock climbing podcast, it's a wild, wild adventure. In this episode, we talk about Emily Harrington's climb of the Golden Gate route and how it's possible to do it in under 24 hours. We also talk about how you can do it, and why you should do it better than you do it. Thank you for listening, Emily! You rock, baby you rock. Cheers, Joe Rogans. - From: Emily Harrington, From: Music by: John Rocha, and Mike McClarty Thank You, Caitlin Durante (Music by: Jeff Perla & John Rodeo ) Thanks, Sarah Meegan ( ) (Alyssa) (Recorded in Los Angeles, Jr.) (Selling This Song) And Thank You For Coming To Me Out On This Episode And This Is My Name? (Thank You, My Back And I'm So Much More Than This Is A Good Place, And I'll See You, I'll Hear It In This And I Can Hear It And I Say This And This And It's So Much So Much And I Love You, Too Here And I Also Can See It And Also I Can Say It And It Will Hear It & I Can See That And I Will See It In My Face And It Also Hear It)

Transcript

Transcripts from "The Joe Rogan Experience" are sourced from the Knowledge Fight Interactive Search Tool. Explore them interactively here.
Misogyny classifications generated with MilaNLProc/bert-base-uncased-ear-misogyny .
Toxicity classifications generated with s-nlp/roberta_toxicity_classifier .
Hate speech classifications generated with facebook/roberta-hate-speech-dynabench-r4-target .
Topics generated with Qwen2.5-3B-Instruct.
Hosts, guests, and mentioned names generated with spaCy (en_core_web_sm), reconciled against Wikidata.
00:00:01.000 Joe Rogan Podcast, check it out!
00:00:04.000 The Joe Rogan Experience.
00:00:06.000 Train by day, Joe Rogan Podcast by night, all day!
00:00:12.000 Hello, Emily.
00:00:13.000 Hi.
00:00:13.000 What's happening?
00:00:15.000 You seem very normal.
00:00:17.000 And that's what always stuns me about people who do insane things.
00:00:21.000 Like they're just, like Alex Honnold, I've met him a few times, had him on the show a couple times.
00:00:26.000 Super normal guy, but does what you do.
00:00:30.000 Yeah.
00:00:30.000 I would argue Alex isn't as normal as me.
00:00:33.000 Oh, really?
00:00:34.000 How so?
00:00:35.000 I don't know.
00:00:36.000 You've met him.
00:00:38.000 I think he's normal.
00:00:39.000 He's pretty normal.
00:00:40.000 He's very mellow.
00:00:41.000 What he does is exponentially more dangerous than what I do, I would argue.
00:00:46.000 Because there's no ropes at all.
00:00:47.000 He doesn't use ropes.
00:00:48.000 I do use ropes.
00:00:49.000 Yeah.
00:00:49.000 Yes.
00:00:50.000 Listen, it's dangerous.
00:00:52.000 What you do is dangerous.
00:00:53.000 We'll get there.
00:00:54.000 Yeah.
00:00:55.000 Tell people what you did, because it's pretty crazy.
00:00:58.000 Um, so I did what's called free climbing.
00:01:03.000 I free climbed a route on El Capitan, which is a 3,200 foot cliff in Yosemite National Park, and I did it in under 24 hours.
00:01:11.000 That is a long way to go.
00:01:15.000 Yeah.
00:01:15.000 3,200 and...
00:01:17.000 It's something.
00:01:18.000 3,200 feet is what I say.
00:01:20.000 I think it might just be like a little more than that.
00:01:24.000 When you're halfway there, Emily Harrington becomes the first woman to scale El Capitan via its notoriously difficult Golden Gate route.
00:01:32.000 Why is that route more difficult?
00:01:35.000 Well, okay, so...
00:01:36.000 Is it route or route?
00:01:38.000 It really matters.
00:01:39.000 I say root.
00:01:41.000 So essentially, El Cap is this giant cliff face.
00:01:45.000 And there's hundreds of routes up El Cap, different pathways you can take.
00:01:51.000 And right now, there's currently only 15 ways to get up it via free climbing.
00:01:56.000 Free climbing being using only your hands and feet to ascend and a rope in case you fall.
00:02:02.000 And I chose The route called Golden Gate, which is more difficult than the route Free Rider, which people are very familiar with because that's the route that Alex Honnold free soloed, meaning he climbed it without a rope.
00:02:15.000 Yeah, that seems insane. 0.82
00:02:17.000 So you're less insane than him. 0.98
00:02:19.000 Oh, yeah. 0.99
00:02:20.000 Definitely less insane than him.
00:02:22.000 Alex is a dear friend of mine, but there are some things I don't understand about him.
00:02:27.000 Yeah, I don't know if he understands those things about him.
00:02:29.000 No.
00:02:30.000 I mean, I have an enormous amount of respect for him, but what he does is truly remarkable.
00:02:37.000 You bonked your head while you're doing it too, huh?
00:02:40.000 I could see the mark on your forehead.
00:02:42.000 Yeah, you can see the scar.
00:02:43.000 Yeah, and that's actually the second time I hit my head.
00:02:46.000 uh trying to trying to do this uh last year I had a really bad fall um wound up in the hospital full concussion the whole thing this time it was slightly less uh less serious but maybe more dramatic because it happened like way higher up on the wall how high were you up um 2800 feet I'd say like almost to the top It was very dramatic.
00:03:12.000 What happened?
00:03:14.000 So the day was actually going really well.
00:03:16.000 I've been trying to do this for a few years now.
00:03:18.000 I would say three years I've been working towards this goal.
00:03:22.000 And I'd actually done the route in 2015 over the course of six days.
00:03:28.000 And I really wanted to do the same route in 24 hours.
00:03:31.000 Can I stop you there?
00:03:32.000 When you do it over six days, do you sleep on the route?
00:03:35.000 Yeah, that's how most people climb El Cap.
00:03:38.000 They sleep on the wall.
00:03:38.000 It takes like five to seven days or so.
00:03:41.000 That seems more sketchy.
00:03:45.000 It's different because there's a lot more logistics involved, right?
00:03:51.000 Like imagine you have to like live in the vertical world for days on end.
00:03:54.000 So think about everything you do like from when you wake up to when you go to bed.
00:03:57.000 Including pooing.
00:03:58.000 Oh yeah.
00:03:59.000 You have to poo vertically.
00:04:01.000 Yeah, we use like, we use wag bags or like, you know, little like plastic bags and you like go in that bag and then you put it in another bag and...
00:04:09.000 And then carry it with you?
00:04:10.000 So you carry your poo for seven days?
00:04:13.000 Yeah, you put it in another bag and then you like hang it below everything and you take it up with you.
00:04:17.000 And then you like, you take it, yeah, you don't leave it, obviously.
00:04:21.000 Oh no, I would imagine.
00:04:21.000 Stuff it in a crack up there.
00:04:23.000 Is that someone pooing?
00:04:25.000 No, that's just someone hanging out.
00:04:26.000 Oh.
00:04:26.000 That's like how you do it when you live on the wall.
00:04:28.000 So you have that ledge.
00:04:30.000 Like the Michael Jackson song.
00:04:32.000 What?
00:04:33.000 Living on the wall.
00:04:34.000 Yeah.
00:04:35.000 Know that song?
00:04:36.000 No.
00:04:37.000 You know?
00:04:37.000 I'm not familiar.
00:04:39.000 It's a famous song.
00:04:41.000 So you sleep in that thing.
00:04:43.000 I would get zero sleep.
00:04:45.000 I don't like sleep when I'm near the edge of my bed.
00:04:48.000 I get nervous.
00:04:50.000 It's amazing how...
00:04:53.000 Exhausted you are at the end of the day and how used to it you get.
00:04:59.000 You just adjust.
00:05:00.000 Humans are really remarkable in their ability to adapt to things.
00:05:05.000 And so it's pretty cool how, yeah, it's really scary at first, but then the more you do it, the more you're just like, okay, well, this is kind of...
00:05:13.000 When you're sleeping in that thing, are you fully harnessed in and strapped in?
00:05:17.000 You sleep in a harness, and you just usually have a loose rope or sling or something attached to the anchor point.
00:05:26.000 So if you're one of those people that rolls out of bed at night, then you don't fall to your death.
00:05:32.000 Can you imagine?
00:05:33.000 No!
00:05:34.000 Just the feeling of waking up swinging, hanging from your harness.
00:05:39.000 See how he has that sling around his waist?
00:05:42.000 No.
00:05:44.000 Yeah, that's like last resort.
00:05:47.000 That's Tommy Caldwell. 1.00
00:05:48.000 Tommy Caldwell, you're a psycho. 0.99
00:05:51.000 He free climbed perhaps the hardest big wall in the world, also on El Cap, called the Dawn Wall. 1.00
00:05:57.000 And he was up there for 17 days.
00:05:59.000 So you'd imagine 17 days.
00:06:01.000 Look at all his stuff.
00:06:03.000 He's like a homeless person up there.
00:06:04.000 Yeah, there's a lot of stuff.
00:06:06.000 You know like the homeless people at those little camps? 0.95
00:06:10.000 He's a maniac. 1.00
00:06:11.000 That's a crazy person. 1.00
00:06:12.000 Look at him, checking his fingernails. 0.98
00:06:14.000 Yeah.
00:06:15.000 You see, he's also actually missing a finger, which is pretty rare for an elite level rock climber.
00:06:20.000 Oh, wow.
00:06:20.000 What happened to his finger?
00:06:22.000 I believe it was a table saw accident, home improvement accident.
00:06:27.000 And so he's using everything but his index.
00:06:30.000 Yeah, he kind of climbs like this and uses the little...
00:06:35.000 The nub?
00:06:35.000 The nub.
00:06:37.000 He's, yeah, definitely...
00:06:38.000 Tommy's one of my true heroes.
00:06:40.000 Ultimate climbing hero.
00:06:42.000 That is a very small clique, right?
00:06:46.000 Yeah.
00:06:47.000 Of savage psychos that are willing to climb gigantic mountain faces.
00:06:51.000 Yeah.
00:06:52.000 Yeah, it's a relatively small group.
00:06:54.000 I mean, it's growing.
00:06:57.000 Climbing is definitely growing in popularity, but it definitely used to be like a little bit, like a small little community, and I think we still feel that way.
00:07:04.000 Is there a danger in the climbing world, or not a danger, a concern, I should say, of people who are seeing people like Alex Honnold and yourself become famous and get all this attention From these very dangerous climbs and they want to perhaps accelerate their progress and jump right in and try to do some really risky things.
00:07:31.000 I mean, I could see that being a danger, especially with what Alex does, climbing without a rope.
00:07:38.000 I would still argue that what I do is a relatively safe form of climbing.
00:07:42.000 I climb with a rope.
00:07:43.000 When I fall, the rope catches me.
00:07:46.000 It's super safe.
00:07:47.000 When I fall, the rope catches me.
00:07:49.000 Free climbing El Cap in a day, what I just did, I definitely cut some corners and took more risk.
00:07:57.000 But that's an achievement that not many people have done or really strive to do.
00:08:03.000 And so I think for the most part, climbing is actually a very controlled, very safe activity, and you can make it as dangerous as you want it to be.
00:08:12.000 Does that make sense?
00:08:13.000 Yes, I understand what you're saying.
00:08:15.000 So if you're a person like Alex is deciding, you know, he maps these routes, he does them with ropes, and then he's like, I can do this.
00:08:23.000 Yes, and Alex is so unique in a way and I think anyone that watches the movie Free Solo, anyone that talks to Alex understands that what he does is, it's so well thought out and it's so well planned and every single decision he makes is very calculated.
00:08:43.000 And I think that's a testament to what climbing is truly about.
00:08:50.000 We're not out to go feel an adrenaline rush when we go climbing.
00:08:55.000 If you're feeling adrenaline, it essentially means you messed up.
00:08:58.000 Something's wrong.
00:08:59.000 Climbing is very much more about the movement and the challenge and the mental challenge of all of it than going out and trying to get a thrill.
00:09:09.000 How did you get involved in this?
00:09:12.000 I started climbing when I was 10 years old.
00:09:15.000 I grew up in Boulder, Colorado, and my parents used to take me to the Boulder Reservoir, this lake.
00:09:22.000 Me and my cousins.
00:09:22.000 Do you have a Subaru?
00:09:24.000 I did have a Subaru.
00:09:25.000 Everyone in Boulder has a Subaru.
00:09:27.000 I got a Subaru for my 16th birthday.
00:09:29.000 That's like 70% of the cars out there.
00:09:31.000 Yeah, green Subaru.
00:09:33.000 These are so practical.
00:09:34.000 They work in the snow.
00:09:35.000 Yeah, I had it for years.
00:09:37.000 So anyway, my parents took me to the lake and they had this little festival there.
00:09:42.000 And I grew up...
00:09:43.000 I'm an only child.
00:09:43.000 I grew up with my two cousins who were boys.
00:09:46.000 And we were just like super competitive with each other all the time.
00:09:49.000 Like all I wanted to do was be better than them at like literally anything.
00:09:54.000 It didn't matter what it was.
00:09:56.000 So we were at this lake and they had a little festival with one of those...
00:10:06.000 I think?
00:10:17.000 Oh, this is what I'm meant to do.
00:10:20.000 I just felt like I belonged up there.
00:10:22.000 And I remember the feeling so vividly, even now, 23 years later.
00:10:28.000 It was like I was scared, but I kind of liked it.
00:10:31.000 I got down and I was like, Dad, I want to go climbing.
00:10:34.000 That's what I want to do.
00:10:35.000 I want to quit everything else.
00:10:36.000 I was a gymnast.
00:10:37.000 I played soccer.
00:10:38.000 I was a ski racer.
00:10:39.000 I was like, I don't want to do any of that anymore.
00:10:41.000 I just want to climb.
00:10:43.000 Why?
00:10:43.000 What about climbing?
00:10:46.000 Canceled all those other things out in your interests?
00:10:49.000 I think part of it was because I was good at it, and I kind of knew that I was good at it.
00:10:56.000 I was strong from gymnastics.
00:11:00.000 I had a lot of body awareness.
00:11:02.000 It just felt like something that I could be good at, and I really enjoyed climbing.
00:11:06.000 Just the feeling of being up high, the feeling of the exposure, and I really enjoyed the process of solving it.
00:11:14.000 I loved that cerebral, like, how am I going to get to the top?
00:11:19.000 How am I going to solve this puzzle?
00:11:21.000 So what was the course of progression?
00:11:23.000 Did you start out just climbing small things with friends, and then did you eventually get a coach?
00:11:31.000 How did you get into serious hardcore climbing?
00:11:35.000 I was among the first generation of kids, climbers, who started out in a climbing gym, so like in an artificial setting.
00:11:45.000 A lot of people before me started, you know, in Yosemite, outdoors, like in the mountains.
00:11:50.000 But I grew up like in the 90s and that was sort of like the beginning of climbing gyms.
00:11:57.000 And so I started in a gym on plastic and my dad took me to the local climbing gym in Boulder.
00:12:05.000 It's called the Boulder Rock Club.
00:12:07.000 And he enrolled me in like a kids class.
00:12:10.000 And they sort of noticed a little bit of talent I think in me and they invited me to join their junior climbing team.
00:12:16.000 Like there's junior climbing teams.
00:12:17.000 Now every gym in the country has a junior climbing team.
00:12:19.000 Is there a benefit to learning on plastic first?
00:12:23.000 I mean, I think access, for one.
00:12:26.000 Like, if you live in a place where there's no rocks, it's pretty easy to still go climbing.
00:12:32.000 You could go to the gym.
00:12:33.000 That said, it's very much become its own discipline, gym climbing.
00:12:39.000 And I use gym climbing still for training.
00:12:41.000 Like, I think it makes you strong.
00:12:43.000 It's a really easy, it's an easy way to get a workout in.
00:12:47.000 Like, the body awareness factor, you can kind of like distill down all the like the movements and in a really controlled setting.
00:12:54.000 It's also super safe.
00:12:56.000 When you say training, if you're going to practice for a big climb, something like you just did, do you have a training schedule?
00:13:04.000 Do you try to peak like an athlete would for the Olympics or for some other kind of event?
00:13:09.000 How do you train?
00:13:11.000 Yeah, I do.
00:13:13.000 I do try to train so that I am peaking at a certain time.
00:13:19.000 It's a little bit experimental though, honestly.
00:13:21.000 I've been working towards this goal in particular for many years, really experimenting with how to train for it because it does require such a variety of skills.
00:13:32.000 You need the strength and endurance and I think?
00:13:54.000 A lot of it was just trial and error for me, but I did spend a lot of time in the gym training on plastic.
00:13:59.000 And then I would supplement that with really long trail runs and big days in the Eastern Sierra, like climbing bigger routes.
00:14:06.000 And then also there's a mental component.
00:14:08.000 So I had to sort of get my head back, especially after my accident last year.
00:14:12.000 I had to get my head back in the game and feel comfortable leading on run-out terrain with big fall potential again.
00:14:21.000 So there was just like a lot.
00:14:23.000 And I did...
00:14:24.000 I think this year in particular, because of COVID, I was actually able to focus a lot more.
00:14:30.000 Like, I think that was sort of the key for me.
00:14:32.000 I stopped traveling.
00:14:33.000 I was at home.
00:14:35.000 I had, like, a routine.
00:14:37.000 I had, like, a good sleep schedule going on.
00:14:40.000 I had, like, my days that I was training.
00:14:41.000 And I was able to, like, have a really good routine.
00:14:44.000 And then when the season started, I felt really well prepared.
00:14:48.000 When you train, do you have someone who is a coach who sets aside a training schedule?
00:14:54.000 Or do you just do it yourself?
00:14:56.000 Is it an intuition?
00:14:58.000 Like you just like have a sense of what you need to train?
00:15:03.000 Like how do you decide what you do?
00:15:06.000 I used to have a coach.
00:15:08.000 Because when I first started climbing, I was basically just only doing climbing competitions.
00:15:13.000 So I just was a competition climber.
00:15:15.000 So I have a really solid base in training and how to train.
00:15:20.000 I no longer work with a coach.
00:15:22.000 But I definitely read a lot and I... Kind of like grab bits and pieces of information from my friends.
00:15:31.000 And so yeah, I do have a set training schedule approach that I kind of like build out in my head and try to stick to it.
00:15:42.000 That said, I'm like pretty flexible.
00:15:44.000 But I do not just climb, like if that's what you're asking.
00:15:47.000 I do a lot of specific training.
00:15:51.000 Mostly I try to train what I'm weakest at, which is like pure power, pure strength.
00:15:56.000 So you're saying that you do trail runs, too, and you find that that helps you?
00:16:00.000 I do think running helps me.
00:16:03.000 A lot of climbers would say that running is, like, not that good for climbing.
00:16:07.000 Why is that?
00:16:08.000 Because it makes you tired, essentially, and it decreases your power and your ability to, like, really pull hard.
00:16:15.000 Like, you're not really supposed to go running on your rest days, but I do it anyway.
00:16:19.000 And for me, sanity-wise, like, I just love running.
00:16:22.000 Just good for the head.
00:16:23.000 Yeah.
00:16:24.000 Yeah, so they think that just exhausting your legs from running will mess you up when you're climbing.
00:16:29.000 Yeah.
00:16:30.000 Is that the idea?
00:16:31.000 Yeah, I think so.
00:16:32.000 I think it just depletes your ability to have pure power.
00:16:35.000 If you're doing a weightlifting workout, it seems like you're not supposed to go run a few miles before you try to bench press your hardest.
00:16:47.000 Yeah, is there two schools of thought on that?
00:16:49.000 Because it seems like another school of thought would be if you can condition your body to run and climb, you'll have a stronger body than one that just climbs.
00:16:58.000 Well, that's my philosophy, yeah. 0.99
00:17:00.000 And obviously you're out there kicking ass. 0.97
00:17:02.000 Well, I mean, I'm a work in progress. 0.99
00:17:06.000 Well, aren't we all?
00:17:08.000 So you basically are self-trained in that sense, where you don't have someone who sets a schedule aside for you, like today you're going to lift weights, today you're going to run.
00:17:16.000 And so how do you do that?
00:17:18.000 Is it just based on how you feel?
00:17:19.000 Do you write it out?
00:17:21.000 Like when Emily wakes up in the morning and decides today is a what day, how do you do that?
00:17:28.000 I... It's a lot of how I feel.
00:17:30.000 Sometimes I plan it out.
00:17:31.000 Sometimes I write it out.
00:17:33.000 I... It depends on how much time I have.
00:17:36.000 Like, if I have a chunk of time to train, then I'll build, like, a training schedule.
00:17:40.000 Like, if I have a month, I'll be like, okay, I'm going to climb two days on, one day off for the next month.
00:17:47.000 And then on the first day, I'm going to do, like, more power-style training.
00:17:52.000 So, like...
00:17:54.000 Shorter workouts, you know, like shorter workouts, higher reps or whatever you want to call it.
00:17:59.000 Like fingerboard, bouldering, stuff that really like increases my power.
00:18:06.000 And then on the second day, I'll focus more on like power endurance or endurance.
00:18:09.000 And that's sort of how I structure it.
00:18:11.000 And I climb, I do hangboard workouts, which is essentially just like hanging on different grips.
00:18:17.000 Yeah, I've seen those things.
00:18:18.000 Yeah.
00:18:18.000 It's a really effective way to train your fingers.
00:18:21.000 You can't get manicures, can you?
00:18:23.000 I mean, I actually do get manicures.
00:18:25.000 They just don't turn out that well.
00:18:26.000 You're digging into rocks all the time.
00:18:28.000 They chip off really fast.
00:18:31.000 I like it.
00:18:32.000 I like to feel girly sometimes.
00:18:34.000 Just recognize that it's very temporary in terms of manicure at least.
00:18:37.000 Yeah, it's temporary.
00:18:38.000 So when you're training, do you use heart rate monitors?
00:18:42.000 Do you register or record your recovery?
00:18:46.000 How do you do all that stuff?
00:18:48.000 I don't do that as much.
00:18:51.000 I've actually played around a little bit with heart rate monitors.
00:18:54.000 A lot of times when I'm like resting on the wall, that's something I'm really focused on.
00:18:59.000 Like a lot of times when you're climbing and you get really tired, a lot of times you'll feel it in your forearms, they'll get really like We call it pumped.
00:19:07.000 There's a lot of lactic acid buildup, and that causes you to panic in a way, get a little bit of tunnel vision, and essentially you'll just fall.
00:19:16.000 A lot of times what I focus on when I'm in that place is trying to lower my heart rate very consciously.
00:19:23.000 I've used a heart rate monitor to do that, but I don't do it while I'm climbing anymore.
00:19:28.000 It's more just me recognizing that that's what needs to happen and putting effort into lowering my heart rate.
00:19:36.000 Well, you know, we were talking before with your fiancé and we were talking about whoop straps, you know, and, like, the idea of checking your recovery and making sure, like, do you do any of that when you wake up in the morning and you make sure that you're good to go?
00:19:49.000 So does that in any way affect, like, how rigorous your training is going to be?
00:19:55.000 Do you measure your heart rate when you wake up or anything?
00:19:57.000 I don't do that.
00:19:58.000 And it's been for a specific reason.
00:20:01.000 I actually am...
00:20:03.000 I'm planning on starting to do that, but because I had this project sort of looming the last few months, I didn't really want to change my approach because I thought it might mess with me psychologically.
00:20:16.000 Right, if you wake up and you say, oh my god, I'm not that recovered.
00:20:19.000 Yeah, and you're like, oh no, I'm not recovered.
00:20:20.000 What do I do?
00:20:21.000 I try to be really intuitive about it.
00:20:24.000 I used to be very data-driven and very focused and very obsessed with everything that I did.
00:20:31.000 And honestly, in some ways, I feel like it kind of hindered me.
00:20:34.000 And so now I try to be a little more intuitive.
00:20:38.000 But I think it's a balance.
00:20:40.000 I'm kind of like going back into maybe I need to start tracking my sleep a little bit more because I'm a notoriously bad sleeper. 0.96
00:20:48.000 Because I would imagine, the reason why I'm asking all these questions about training is because I would imagine that when you're doing something that's literally, I know you're saying it's relatively safe, but for a person like me who's a big chicken shit, it's not relatively safe, it seems quite insane, and I would imagine you would want every single edge.
00:21:07.000 So I would imagine that if I was going to do something like that, I would want to know exactly how my workouts are affecting my body. 0.89
00:21:15.000 Like, okay, I lifted weights this day, and then the next day I felt pretty beat up.
00:21:20.000 So I did this, and then I recovered.
00:21:22.000 I checked my heart rate.
00:21:23.000 All right, I'm back.
00:21:24.000 I'm good to go.
00:21:24.000 So now this day I'm going to run, or this day I'm going to do fingerboard exercises.
00:21:29.000 I would imagine that There's so much mindfuckery going on when you're going to do something that difficult that you want to put all these pieces in place the best way possible.
00:21:43.000 Yeah.
00:21:43.000 And see, I would argue that all of that is like, it's like too much.
00:21:49.000 It's like too much data and it's like, that actually gives me a mindfuck. 0.89
00:21:54.000 Oh, I see.
00:22:13.000 And Adrian, my fiancé, is very much like that as well.
00:22:16.000 He loves the data.
00:22:18.000 And for me, I find it to...
00:22:19.000 I think it messes with me a little bit.
00:22:22.000 And so to a certain extent, I'm a little more focused on my own mental state and my own psychology and sort of trying to just figure out how to have confidence up there.
00:22:36.000 Have you ever seen the movie Dirtbag?
00:22:38.000 No.
00:22:39.000 No?
00:22:39.000 No.
00:22:40.000 Really?
00:22:40.000 Oh, it's amazing.
00:22:41.000 What's it about?
00:22:42.000 It's about a climber.
00:22:43.000 About a guy who literally climbed his whole life.
00:22:46.000 I forget the gentleman's name.
00:22:48.000 Dirtbag?
00:22:49.000 He's a famous climber.
00:22:51.000 Fred Becky.
00:22:52.000 Oh, yeah.
00:22:52.000 I know who Fred Becky is.
00:22:54.000 Dirtbag meaning that, you know, he would just...
00:22:56.000 Camp out and sleep on people's couches and climb all across the world.
00:23:01.000 And was meticulous in his recording.
00:23:05.000 It's an amazing documentary.
00:23:06.000 Even for someone like me, he has zero interest in doing that.
00:23:09.000 But he climbed till he died.
00:23:11.000 Yep, he did.
00:23:11.000 I mean, he just kept going.
00:23:13.000 And it shows it in the film.
00:23:16.000 You know, you see footage of him when he was younger.
00:23:19.000 I mean, there he is.
00:23:20.000 Like, overnight camping prohibited? 1.00
00:23:21.000 Nope, fuck you, I'm sleeping here. 1.00
00:23:23.000 Yeah. 1.00
00:23:24.000 He just slept everywhere.
00:23:25.000 And it just shows how bizarre his obsession with hiking and camping and climbing was.
00:23:35.000 I mean, he just wanted to get out there and climb all these different peaks and all these different mountains and all these different paths and recorded everything.
00:23:47.000 Yeah.
00:23:47.000 Like super meticulously had boxes and boxes of notes and he would go over the notes and show people routes and all the different things that he learned while he was doing it.
00:23:56.000 I mean, he was obsessed.
00:23:58.000 I am just fascinated by people that have a singular obsession like that and carry it for their entire life.
00:24:06.000 Yeah, I mean I think climbing for me, I personally think climbing is very easy to become obsessed with because there's so many different facets to experience it in.
00:24:15.000 Like you can go to the climbing gym and just play around on some plastic holds or you can work towards climbing something like Mount Everest and then like everything in the middle.
00:24:25.000 And so there's just a lot to do.
00:24:27.000 Like I just feel like I don't even have, I have like a lifetime's worth of things to do in climbing.
00:24:34.000 That makes sense.
00:24:35.000 I mean, watching that guy, watching the Fred Becky movie, Becky, right?
00:24:41.000 Watching that movie and seeing his lifelong obsession, seeing other climbers sort of talk about him and the experiences they had with him.
00:24:53.000 There's more going on than just climbing, right?
00:24:58.000 There's some sort of strange...
00:25:02.000 It's a chase of a mental state.
00:25:05.000 There seems to be a mental state of people that climb and want to reach the peaks of these things and navigate these difficult routes.
00:25:15.000 There's some sort of a game going on in your mind, and there's rewards.
00:25:20.000 There's this good feeling that everyone is getting while they're doing this.
00:25:25.000 You're filling yourself up with endorphins when you're accomplishing these things.
00:25:29.000 Is that safe to say?
00:25:30.000 Yeah, I could agree with that.
00:25:32.000 I mean, I think for me, climbing is my passion and it is essentially my vehicle for experiencing the wide spectrum of emotions that we all have.
00:25:46.000 It's my vehicle for exploring fear.
00:25:48.000 It's my vehicle for exploring achievement and success and ego and confidence.
00:25:54.000 And, you know, I think you could really, like, use anything in order to explore those emotions.
00:26:00.000 But everyone, I think, in some way is trying to find what their vehicle is to explore those emotions.
00:26:07.000 And for me, it truly is climbing, like, up there on LCAP. Like, I went through the whole spectrum of emotions the whole day, just up and down in, like, the most extreme ways possible.
00:26:17.000 When you have these moments where things don't go well, where you have a fall or when you had your concussion and you got really banged up, Overcoming those things, what is that like?
00:26:29.000 Because I would imagine that it's such a scary thing to do.
00:26:33.000 Well, maybe for me, I don't know as much for you, but I'm watching pictures of you.
00:26:37.000 My hands sweat.
00:26:39.000 Legitimately.
00:26:40.000 Alex Honnold freaks me out.
00:26:41.000 Every time I see videos of him, because he's got nothing saving him, my hands start sweating.
00:26:46.000 I can't handle it.
00:26:47.000 No, I think all our hands sweat when we watch him.
00:26:51.000 Yeah, so for me, it's...
00:26:53.000 I think, for example, when I hit my head this time, the time I got the scar, I was on one of...
00:26:59.000 My day had gone so perfectly.
00:27:01.000 Like, I was climbing super well.
00:27:02.000 Everything was great.
00:27:04.000 There it is.
00:27:05.000 Ouchie.
00:27:05.000 Yeah, that was the rock bottom moment.
00:27:08.000 So, I was climbing...
00:27:09.000 And I was in the sun.
00:27:11.000 I slipped off.
00:27:12.000 I felt like I was just going to have a really normal fall.
00:27:15.000 Super safe.
00:27:16.000 Like, nothing bad was going to happen.
00:27:17.000 And then I hit my head.
00:27:18.000 And I instantly, like, just felt the blood pouring down my face.
00:27:22.000 And it was super dramatic.
00:27:24.000 And it was super scary.
00:27:25.000 And I lowered down.
00:27:27.000 And Adrian sort of assessed me for concussion symptoms.
00:27:30.000 And tried to, you know, figure out if there was anything super serious.
00:27:34.000 And it turns out that there wasn't really.
00:27:36.000 And so...
00:27:38.000 It came time to decide, should I keep going or should I give up?
00:27:43.000 What's the best course of action now?
00:27:45.000 And honestly, in my head, part of me was like, I don't want to keep climbing.
00:27:51.000 I'm emotionally kind of destroyed and drained.
00:27:56.000 Tell me how it happened.
00:27:58.000 What was the sequence of events?
00:28:00.000 So I was climbing this pitch, and it's a pitch that I've never fallen on before.
00:28:07.000 And the next pitch is the hard one, which is where I think I went wrong.
00:28:12.000 Because I was sort of thinking ahead.
00:28:14.000 Like, I wasn't focusing on what was happening in front of me.
00:28:16.000 I was thinking about the next pitch.
00:28:19.000 And I was like, I need to get this one out of the way so that I can focus on the hard one.
00:28:23.000 And therefore, I was climbing the sun when it's too hot.
00:28:27.000 Like, the friction's not as good.
00:28:28.000 It's more slippery.
00:28:29.000 All those things.
00:28:30.000 And I was rushing it.
00:28:32.000 I didn't rest enough.
00:28:33.000 The friction is not as good when it's hot?
00:28:35.000 Yeah.
00:28:36.000 Why is that?
00:28:36.000 You want it to be cold.
00:28:37.000 Because your skin sweats.
00:28:39.000 Oh, okay.
00:28:40.000 And the rubber on your shoes isn't as sticky.
00:28:43.000 It's just the heat radiates off the rock.
00:28:46.000 It just gets more slippery.
00:28:47.000 Imagine a granite face just baking in the sun.
00:28:52.000 Everything's more slippery.
00:28:53.000 And you're all sweaty.
00:28:54.000 And so it's just not ideal.
00:28:56.000 And I could have waited, but I didn't.
00:28:59.000 So I was climbing and I was like kind of traversing.
00:29:03.000 And so I was trying to do this move and I rushed it and I slipped and I fell.
00:29:08.000 But I had like a piece of gear down and to my right.
00:29:12.000 And I just didn't anticipate the physics of how I was going to fall, and I kind of fell sideways, and I couldn't get my feet out in front of me in time.
00:29:22.000 And we watched the footage later.
00:29:23.000 It was kind of like my head just bounces off the wall like a basketball. 0.74
00:29:29.000 And I must have just hit like a crystal or something with my forehead like some sort of something sticking out of the rock and there was just blood everywhere like head wounds they just you know they bleed they bleed a lot and so there was a lot of blood and I lowered down and I was super bummed it was just like my confidence was sort of shattered like I could I just kept thinking back to last year I was like oh no my attempts over everything was going so well like This sucks.
00:29:56.000 And I was letting myself go to that place of doubt and that place of like, it's over.
00:30:00.000 It's done.
00:30:01.000 And last year when you hit your head, you hit your head much harder?
00:30:04.000 Last year I fell on the first pitch of the route, so close to the ground.
00:30:10.000 But I fell like 50 feet and I hit a ledge and the rope didn't catch me.
00:30:15.000 I hit the ledge.
00:30:16.000 Because I was, again, rushing and not placing enough protection and So you fell 50 feet without being caught?
00:30:23.000 Uh-huh.
00:30:24.000 I hit a ledge.
00:30:25.000 Oh my god.
00:30:25.000 Yeah.
00:30:26.000 It was pretty gnarly.
00:30:28.000 How did you hit it?
00:30:29.000 I don't remember because I got knocked out.
00:30:33.000 Yeah.
00:30:34.000 But I had this crazy rope burn on my neck.
00:30:36.000 Oh my god.
00:30:38.000 Yeah.
00:30:39.000 It was pretty...
00:30:40.000 I had...
00:30:40.000 Yeah.
00:30:41.000 I had to get rescued like full on ambulance to the hospital like...
00:30:46.000 Spinal injury, worries, all that.
00:30:49.000 It was pretty serious.
00:30:50.000 It was definitely the worst accident I've ever had.
00:30:54.000 And it was...
00:30:55.000 I walked out of the hospital that day, which is incredible.
00:30:58.000 Like, that just doesn't happen very often.
00:31:00.000 There's you.
00:31:01.000 There's me.
00:31:01.000 Dressed up like a burrito.
00:31:03.000 And what...
00:31:04.000 So this is when they were carrying you to the hospital?
00:31:07.000 Yeah, that's a rope burn.
00:31:07.000 Look at that rope burn.
00:31:09.000 Oh my God.
00:31:09.000 I also don't know how that happened.
00:31:11.000 Oh, wow.
00:31:12.000 Yeah.
00:31:13.000 Yeah.
00:31:14.000 Wow.
00:31:15.000 And there's no footage of this, right?
00:31:17.000 You didn't review footage of it?
00:31:19.000 Well, it was dark when I started climbing.
00:31:21.000 So there actually is footage of...
00:31:24.000 Alex Honnold was belaying me.
00:31:26.000 There's footage of him belaying me.
00:31:28.000 What does belay mean?
00:31:29.000 Belaying is the person who holds your rope at the bottom.
00:31:31.000 Oh, okay.
00:31:32.000 So he was essentially holding my rope.
00:31:34.000 But...
00:31:34.000 It's a little bit nuanced because the way we were climbing, we were doing something called simul climbing.
00:31:40.000 Essentially, I was tied onto the top of the rope, he was tied onto the bottom of the rope, and we were climbing together up the wall simultaneously in order to save time.
00:31:48.000 And it's actually, it is a more dangerous form of climbing than just one person climbing while the other person belays them, and then I would stop and bring him up, and then we'd go on from there.
00:32:00.000 Instead, we were climbing together.
00:32:02.000 Whoa.
00:32:04.000 That makes me nervous just thinking about it.
00:32:05.000 So if someone falls, you're kind of connected to them?
00:32:08.000 Yeah, we are always connected to somebody when you fall.
00:32:11.000 But if he had fallen, it's kind of a complicated form of climbing that not many people do.
00:32:17.000 It's definitely like an advanced strategy.
00:32:23.000 So was someone filming?
00:32:25.000 Yeah, I have a filmer who's making like a movie about me and he was filming because he was there filming that attempt and he was filming Alex as Alex was like sitting on the ground getting ready.
00:32:39.000 And have you reviewed the footage?
00:32:41.000 Yeah.
00:32:41.000 What is it like watching yourself?
00:32:43.000 It's pretty like, it's hard.
00:32:45.000 It was hard.
00:32:46.000 I didn't watch it for the first few months.
00:32:47.000 I was like, I don't really want to see it.
00:32:48.000 How long does it take to fall 50 feet?
00:32:50.000 Imagine that's a few seconds.
00:32:52.000 Like a...
00:32:53.000 I don't know.
00:32:54.000 What's the...
00:32:55.000 How fast do you fall?
00:32:56.000 Isn't it like 9...
00:32:58.000 Yeah.
00:32:59.000 9.8 meters per second.
00:33:02.000 So it's a couple seconds at least.
00:33:06.000 Yeah.
00:33:08.000 At least it felt that way.
00:33:10.000 Oh, God.
00:33:14.000 So yeah.
00:33:15.000 So that was something like a mental hurdle to get over for this year.
00:33:20.000 And then this year, something similar happens, only I was way higher on the wall, but I was really close to succeeding this time.
00:33:27.000 And I had this...
00:33:28.000 Part of me was like, well, I just want to give up.
00:33:31.000 Like, I don't want to do this anymore.
00:33:32.000 I want to be done.
00:33:33.000 Like, I'm tired of this project.
00:33:34.000 I'm over it.
00:33:35.000 When you got over the first injury, the really bad one from last year, what was the process of recovery?
00:33:41.000 How long did it take before you felt comfortable enough to climb again?
00:33:45.000 I was super lucky.
00:33:47.000 I think I definitely got away with one.
00:33:49.000 It was one of those things where I got away with one.
00:33:51.000 I walked out of the hospital.
00:33:52.000 I was back climbing.
00:33:57.000 I think I took a month off, but I went to Ecuador and climbed a volcano with my dad and went skiing and just did a bunch of things.
00:34:05.000 How long afterwards?
00:34:06.000 We went to Ecuador like four days later.
00:34:09.000 What? 0.99
00:34:10.000 What kind of crazy father do you have? 0.99
00:34:12.000 He's awesome. 0.98
00:34:14.000 My dad loves all sports and activities, and he's super passionate about everything.
00:34:20.000 And this was his dream, was to go climb this volcano in Ecuador, and we'd been planning it for months.
00:34:25.000 That was one of the reasons I felt so bad that I got hurt.
00:34:27.000 I was like, oh no, I'm supposed to go on this trip with my dad.
00:34:31.000 We had this whole plan.
00:34:33.000 He's been training.
00:34:34.000 He trained for months.
00:34:37.000 He's 65 years old.
00:34:38.000 It was one of those things.
00:34:40.000 So we went and we climbed the mountain, and thankfully I was able to do that with him.
00:34:43.000 It was really cool.
00:34:44.000 What kind of physical damage did you suffer in terms of how long did it take for you to recover?
00:34:52.000 Honestly, I would say I felt pretty normal within a month.
00:34:56.000 Real?
00:34:56.000 Yeah, a little back pain.
00:34:58.000 But concussion, right?
00:34:59.000 Concussion.
00:35:00.000 Yeah, the concussion symptoms were a little gnarly for a little while. 1.00
00:35:03.000 But four days later, you're climbing a goddamn volcano. 0.98
00:35:05.000 Yeah, well, we're headed there. 0.99
00:35:07.000 How long after that before you were actually climbing?
00:35:10.000 I... Maybe like three weeks.
00:35:14.000 So, while you were suffering from some, at least, concussion symptoms, you were climbing.
00:35:20.000 Yeah, not recommended.
00:35:23.000 We went to the doctor and she was like, you can't go to Ecuador.
00:35:26.000 You shouldn't do that.
00:35:26.000 And I was like...
00:35:27.000 Yeah, that's nice.
00:35:28.000 See ya.
00:35:30.000 When you watch the footage of the fall and you see yourself hit the wall and just the impact and what happened to you, does that obviously didn't deter you from doing anything,
00:35:46.000 but has it changed the way you approach climbing?
00:35:50.000 Yes and no.
00:35:52.000 I think the reason that it was a little bit easier for me to overcome that hurdle was because it was really obvious what had gone wrong.
00:36:00.000 And it was really obvious that what had gone wrong was within my control.
00:36:04.000 I simply had not placed enough protection for the difficulty of the route.
00:36:10.000 It was an easy, easy climbing for me, but it was really dark, it was cold, it was slippery, and I was like, I was just going too fast and not placing enough gear.
00:36:20.000 So, but can you explain that to people?
00:36:22.000 So, when you're doing a route...
00:36:25.000 Or a route.
00:36:26.000 When you're on your way up, you decide, okay, I need to place something here in case I fall.
00:36:32.000 And you do it more when it's more difficult.
00:36:36.000 Exactly.
00:36:36.000 And you gave yourself a lot of space.
00:36:38.000 I did.
00:36:38.000 I gave myself a lot of space because I'd done it so many times before and I wanted to...
00:36:44.000 So you only have like a certain number, like a certain amount of pieces of gear, right?
00:36:49.000 And Alex and I were trying to go really fast and climb the first part of the route within a couple hours.
00:36:55.000 And so I was trying to conserve the gear.
00:36:58.000 So I was trying to like not use it very often so we could cover more distance.
00:37:12.000 Mm-hmm.
00:37:22.000 And so the next time around, I was like, well, I'll just place more gear.
00:37:25.000 Like, I'll just be a little more conservative.
00:37:27.000 And so this season, it was a lot of...
00:37:30.000 It was some baby steps of, like, going back to that route and just placing a lot of gear so that I felt super safe.
00:37:36.000 And then, you know, climbing it in the same style that I was going to climb it with Alex, simul climbing it, but still placing more gear.
00:37:42.000 And then during my try this year, I actually told Alex, because he was...
00:37:46.000 He's definitely...
00:37:48.000 I think?
00:38:03.000 He was basically just wanting me to do it the same way that I was doing it before.
00:38:07.000 And I was like, you know, Alex, I'm going to be a little slower this time.
00:38:10.000 Like, I just, I think I need that for my head.
00:38:14.000 So he felt like you should do it with the same amount of gear that you did before.
00:38:17.000 Just don't fall.
00:38:18.000 Just don't fall this time, Emily.
00:38:20.000 Kind of.
00:38:21.000 Real simple.
00:38:21.000 A little bit.
00:38:22.000 Yeah.
00:38:22.000 He was like, you know, but Alex, one thing he always says is he's just like, okay, follow your heart.
00:38:27.000 And I was like, okay, well, I'm going to go slower.
00:38:30.000 Well, just so the audience knows, Alex told me that he did a route once and on his way up realized that he hadn't brought any chalk.
00:38:42.000 So he had to borrow it from someone else who was strapped to ropes.
00:38:47.000 So he's free soloing.
00:38:49.000 No chalk.
00:38:51.000 Says, hey, I don't have any chalk.
00:38:53.000 And the guy gives him a bag.
00:38:55.000 And he left the bag at the top so that when they got to the top, they could retrieve the bag.
00:39:00.000 Yeah, that's a classic Alex situation.
00:39:03.000 You know, what?
00:39:05.000 Like, how do you not bring...
00:39:07.000 Like, if you lift weights, you like chalk.
00:39:10.000 It's very important.
00:39:12.000 Yeah, for me too.
00:39:12.000 I'm kind of obsessed with having chalk.
00:39:14.000 If I don't have chalk, I just won't go climbing.
00:39:16.000 I just can't imagine.
00:39:18.000 Yeah.
00:39:18.000 But, you know, I think he's the type of person that, you know, going back to, like, talking about heart rate, like, I bet when he's in those types of situations, like, he's so relaxed, and his heart rate is so low, and he's just, he's a different, I think he's truly unique.
00:39:34.000 I think that he just has a different brain chemistry than a lot of us in terms of how he feels fear and how he can maintain that composure in a very dangerous situation.
00:39:48.000 Well, he's remarkably calm all the time.
00:39:52.000 Yeah.
00:39:52.000 Like, he just seems always, like, on this one plane.
00:39:56.000 Yeah.
00:39:56.000 He's got, like, this, like, 55 beats per minute that he just stays at all the time.
00:40:01.000 Yep.
00:40:01.000 And it's great climbing with him, actually, because it kind of rubs off on me a little bit.
00:40:06.000 Like, when I climb with Alex, I feel more confident.
00:40:08.000 I feel more capable.
00:40:09.000 I tend to climb better. 0.99
00:40:11.000 Even though he kind of gives me shit all the time for being nervous. 0.98
00:40:14.000 He's always like, you're always nervous. 0.99
00:40:15.000 Like, you're...
00:40:16.000 You're always stressing out, but it's actually when I'm with him, I'm like, you know what?
00:40:19.000 I can chill out a little bit.
00:40:22.000 I can be on that wavelength a little bit more.
00:40:24.000 So that's part of the reason why I like climbing with him up there and why I chose him for this project.
00:40:29.000 Well, that makes sense.
00:40:30.000 I mean, I guess when you're around people that are, if you're doing a thing and you're around people that are excellent at that thing, it's contagious or at least inspirational.
00:40:40.000 Yeah.
00:40:40.000 I mean, I think it's important to, like, do, yeah, to practice things that you want to be better at with people who are better than you.
00:40:47.000 Yeah, for sure.
00:40:49.000 What was it like?
00:40:50.000 Do you remember vividly your first day climbing after the injury?
00:40:57.000 Yeah, it was in Ecuador.
00:40:59.000 I went to this little, like, crag, little climbing area after we climbed the volcano.
00:41:07.000 And I remember climbing, but I had, like, back pain.
00:41:13.000 From the injury?
00:41:14.000 Yeah, from the injury.
00:41:15.000 And I just remember thinking, oh, I'm still not back.
00:41:21.000 Maybe I'm not ready yet.
00:41:23.000 For me, I've always been the person who I don't really give myself a break very easily.
00:41:29.000 And I'm pretty hard on myself.
00:41:31.000 But this time, I think I learned a pretty valuable lesson that was I do need to be a little bit more gentle with myself.
00:41:40.000 And be okay with taking a step back.
00:41:42.000 So I actually tried climbing and was like, nope, not today.
00:41:45.000 I'm not going to do it today.
00:41:46.000 And I just took photos for the rest of the day.
00:41:48.000 And then I didn't climb again until maybe three weeks later.
00:41:51.000 What do you do to try to recover from something like that in terms of physical recovery?
00:41:56.000 Do you take ice baths?
00:41:59.000 Do you try to stretch?
00:42:01.000 Do you get massaged?
00:42:03.000 When you feel beat up from something like that, how do you bounce back?
00:42:08.000 Yeah, massage I do as often as I can, not enough.
00:42:13.000 And then really, really light stretching, like foam rolling.
00:42:18.000 I have like a little travel lacrosse ball that I lay on sometimes.
00:42:22.000 But again, I am not as diligent with it as I probably should be.
00:42:30.000 But then after I got injured, I was really diligent about it.
00:42:34.000 I think it's something that you kind of should maintain though.
00:42:36.000 And I definitely don't do that.
00:42:38.000 Now, do you do this professionally?
00:42:41.000 Yeah.
00:42:41.000 Is this all you do?
00:42:42.000 How long has that been the case?
00:42:48.000 Well, I guess I should say that I became a true professional rock climber when I joined the North Face team.
00:42:54.000 And that was in 2008, right after I graduated from college.
00:42:58.000 That's a long time.
00:42:59.000 It's a really long time, yeah.
00:43:00.000 Yeah, so you've been a pro for 12 years?
00:43:02.000 Yeah, 12 years.
00:43:03.000 And before that, I was doing a lot of competitions and You know, had sponsors and stuff like that, but I was also in school and then I went to university and I wanted to be a lawyer actually.
00:43:15.000 So I graduated from the University of Colorado in Boulder and I was gonna like study for the LSAT and that's when the North Face approached me and I was like okay well I'll try this for a little while and see how it goes.
00:43:29.000 Like it's a cool opportunity to travel and see the world and keep climbing and then I just didn't Were you hesitant?
00:43:37.000 Not at all.
00:43:38.000 No.
00:43:38.000 But you went to school for something else.
00:43:40.000 Yeah.
00:43:41.000 You're doing something physical.
00:43:43.000 That's always weird, right?
00:43:44.000 Yeah.
00:43:44.000 Because you're relying on your body, which can break.
00:43:47.000 But you can always go back.
00:43:48.000 My mindset, I think I was 20 years old.
00:43:50.000 I didn't have a super good...
00:43:55.000 Ten-year plan or whatever.
00:43:57.000 I was like, I'll do this for a few years and then I can just go back to school.
00:44:00.000 That's great.
00:44:02.000 But now, being a professional athlete has sort of morphed into this viable option to make a living.
00:44:08.000 For me, at least.
00:44:10.000 And when you're sponsored, how does that work?
00:44:13.000 Are you required to do a certain amount of climbs per year?
00:44:16.000 Are you required to make social media posts?
00:44:18.000 How does that work?
00:44:21.000 Yeah, so I work with a bunch of companies, but the North Face is the main one.
00:44:25.000 And...
00:44:26.000 It's essentially like a marketing job.
00:44:30.000 We are expected, I wouldn't say required, but expected to participate in social media, tell our stories, be open about that.
00:44:42.000 And then we do a lot of photo shoots.
00:44:43.000 We do a lot of expeditions, a lot of big trips, and then personal projects as well.
00:44:51.000 And And yeah, kind of expected to tell the stories of those and to work with the brand to make it worth their while as well.
00:44:58.000 So they just kind of want you to be cool and wear their stuff?
00:45:02.000 Like, you're out there doing cool stuff and you're wearing the North's face? 0.99
00:45:05.000 And be active within the brand and like, yeah.
00:45:08.000 How does that feel?
00:45:10.000 Like, that's what you do for a living?
00:45:13.000 I would be lying if I... I said that I didn't feel sometimes a little bit of, like, imposter syndrome, you know?
00:45:22.000 I'm kind of like, oh, like, do I actually deserve this?
00:45:26.000 Like...
00:45:26.000 That happens with everybody, though.
00:45:29.000 Yeah, I think so.
00:45:29.000 Yeah.
00:45:30.000 Like, why am I here?
00:45:32.000 Right.
00:45:32.000 Like, I don't...
00:45:33.000 I'm not special.
00:45:35.000 Right.
00:45:35.000 Well, that's probably why you're special.
00:45:37.000 Maybe.
00:45:38.000 Yeah, I think so.
00:45:39.000 I think people that actually think they're special genuinely, that's more of a hindrance. 1.00
00:45:48.000 I think you're better off with, yeah, I think you're better off feeling like shit. 0.99
00:45:52.000 Okay, I'm going to continue with that then. 0.99
00:45:54.000 I do, because I think it makes you work harder.
00:45:56.000 I really do.
00:45:58.000 I think the people that think they deserve success, the people that think they're awesome, I think you don't have as much nervousness or at least doubt which forces you to work harder.
00:46:11.000 I think there's real value in feeling fake.
00:46:16.000 Like feeling like...
00:46:18.000 How am I here?
00:46:19.000 These other people, they're really good.
00:46:21.000 I know so many successful people that think that way, whether it's athletes or comedians.
00:46:28.000 So many people suffer from imposter syndrome.
00:46:31.000 It's real.
00:46:32.000 I've experienced it.
00:46:33.000 I think it's important.
00:46:35.000 I think it makes you work harder. 1.00
00:46:37.000 I think if you just think you're the shit, you're not going to have that extra edge. 0.99
00:46:42.000 Yeah, and I guess like admitting to it, it also like makes you more relatable to people, I think. 1.00
00:46:48.000 Sure.
00:46:49.000 Like admitting that you struggle with self-confidence and like imposter syndrome and feeling like you're not good enough all the time is...
00:46:55.000 Yes.
00:46:55.000 It helps other people be like, oh yeah.
00:46:57.000 Yes.
00:46:57.000 Cool.
00:46:58.000 I feel that way too.
00:46:59.000 Yeah.
00:46:59.000 Well, I think it's valuable for all of us.
00:47:02.000 Because we want to know that you're human, right?
00:47:05.000 Yeah.
00:47:06.000 You're doing a superhuman thing, right? 1.00
00:47:07.000 You're climbing the face of a giant goddamn mountain. 1.00
00:47:10.000 It's crazy. 0.99
00:47:11.000 When someone does something that everyone else is terrified of, we want to know, like, what is that lady like? 0.99
00:47:17.000 And you're like, oh, I feel like a fake.
00:47:19.000 Yeah.
00:47:20.000 People are like, oh, she's like me.
00:47:21.000 I'm terrified most of the time.
00:47:23.000 And I cry a lot.
00:47:25.000 That's what it's like.
00:47:26.000 Yeah.
00:47:27.000 Yeah, see, people love to hear that.
00:47:29.000 They do.
00:47:29.000 They really do.
00:47:31.000 It's very valuable when you can relate, like, genuine anxiety and fears and things to people because you are doing an extraordinary thing with your life.
00:47:43.000 I mean, how many professional rock climbers are there?
00:47:45.000 Yeah, I mean, there's a few.
00:47:48.000 There's not many.
00:47:49.000 There's more now.
00:47:50.000 A lot more lawyers.
00:47:51.000 Yeah, it's true.
00:47:52.000 Yeah.
00:47:53.000 It's a lot more now than when you first started.
00:47:55.000 Yeah, for sure.
00:47:56.000 I mean, climbing has kind of exploded in popularity in a way with the resurgence of climbing gyms.
00:48:04.000 There's climbing gyms in every city now.
00:48:07.000 Multiple.
00:48:07.000 It's a really good way to get a workout.
00:48:09.000 People don't realize how hard it is to do.
00:48:11.000 It's really hard.
00:48:12.000 I mean...
00:48:14.000 Yeah, I love it.
00:48:15.000 I think it's so cool that people now have access to experience climbing in the inner city if they want to.
00:48:20.000 I think it's rad.
00:48:21.000 And also now it's an Olympic sport.
00:48:24.000 It will be in the Olympics next year.
00:48:25.000 It was meant to be in Tokyo.
00:48:26.000 How do they do it as an Olympic sport?
00:48:28.000 They have a particular path that you have to try to climb up?
00:48:31.000 So it's three disciplines because it's a new sport.
00:48:35.000 They've essentially combined the three main disciplines of competition climbing into one.
00:48:40.000 So there's one medal and they combine the scores and they have lead climbing, which is with a rope, but the roots are longer, like say, I don't know, 50 feet or so.
00:48:51.000 So it's sort of like an endurance challenge.
00:48:53.000 And it's like they set a path and it's meant to be difficult.
00:48:56.000 And each person gets one try.
00:48:58.000 And whoever gets the highest wins that discipline.
00:49:01.000 And then there's bouldering, which is like shorter, no ropes.
00:49:06.000 The movements are like more powerful, more explosive.
00:49:09.000 There's a little bit of a parkour element.
00:49:11.000 There's like a lot of jumping around.
00:49:13.000 Yeah, there you go.
00:49:14.000 Whoa! 0.71
00:49:14.000 Lots of like big features, like volumes. 0.71
00:49:17.000 Where's that guy going?
00:49:20.000 Yeah, exactly.
00:49:21.000 Where's he going?
00:49:22.000 It's really confusing.
00:49:23.000 It's super entertaining.
00:49:25.000 If you're hanging in that position, what is your next viable option?
00:49:29.000 He's going to throw his feet up to where his left hand is, and then he's going to bring his left hand into his right hand.
00:49:36.000 What?
00:49:37.000 Yeah.
00:49:38.000 What?
00:49:39.000 That's my estimate.
00:49:41.000 That's me reading it.
00:49:42.000 And then where does he go?
00:49:43.000 And then he's going to go to that next red one with a sticker on it.
00:49:46.000 That one?
00:49:46.000 Yeah.
00:49:47.000 Really?
00:49:47.000 It's incredible.
00:49:48.000 Like, bouldering competitions are so cool.
00:49:49.000 Oh my god.
00:49:50.000 They're super entertaining.
00:49:52.000 And they all have that sort of Alex Honnold body.
00:49:55.000 Long, lean, very thin, but not too thin.
00:49:58.000 But not everyone.
00:49:59.000 A lot of the women are quite small. 1.00
00:50:01.000 Really?
00:50:03.000 Climbing is unique because it's really complicated and it kind of caters to all different body types.
00:50:10.000 In a lot of ways it's better to be taller, but in other ways it's sometimes better to be shorter because it's always different.
00:50:16.000 The roots are always different.
00:50:17.000 I would imagine tall would be better because you have a longer reach.
00:50:20.000 You can reach up and grab a hold of stuff.
00:50:21.000 Most of the time, but I can put my feet a lot higher than a lot of people, and I'm a lot more flexible than most people.
00:50:26.000 What do you mean by you can put your feet higher?
00:50:27.000 I can put my foot above my head if I want to.
00:50:30.000 Oh, because you're flexible from gymnastics?
00:50:32.000 Yeah.
00:50:32.000 Oh, interesting.
00:50:33.000 And do you maintain that?
00:50:35.000 Do you work on your flexibility just specifically for that?
00:50:38.000 I should.
00:50:39.000 I don't.
00:50:40.000 There's a lot of this with you.
00:50:41.000 I know.
00:50:42.000 Oh, I should get more massages.
00:50:44.000 You can't do everything.
00:50:45.000 Oh, I guess.
00:50:46.000 So that's lead climbing.
00:50:47.000 Okay.
00:50:47.000 So that's with the rope.
00:50:49.000 And you just get one try on the route.
00:50:51.000 With the bouldering, you get like, they call them problems.
00:50:54.000 So you get maybe four or five of those problems.
00:50:57.000 And you get five minutes on each one.
00:51:01.000 And however you do on each one gives you a score.
00:51:04.000 And then you have speed, which is right there.
00:51:06.000 Same route, everywhere, all the time.
00:51:09.000 And it's just, it's speed.
00:51:10.000 I've seen some of those speed ones.
00:51:12.000 We've watched them on the show.
00:51:13.000 It's bananas.
00:51:14.000 Yeah, it's really fast.
00:51:16.000 They go flying.
00:51:17.000 Super, yeah.
00:51:18.000 Yeah.
00:51:19.000 Really, really cool.
00:51:20.000 It doesn't seem real.
00:51:21.000 Like, how does a person get up a wall like that?
00:51:24.000 I don't know.
00:51:25.000 I mean, they also have a different...
00:51:26.000 Like, speed climbers actually have a different body type than a lot of the, like, sport climbers and boulders.
00:51:32.000 Because a lot of it is, like, really lower body explosion.
00:51:35.000 Yeah.
00:51:36.000 So that's Olympics.
00:51:38.000 Whoops.
00:51:39.000 This is music to the explosion.
00:51:40.000 Oh, look at these guys going.
00:51:42.000 Yeah.
00:51:43.000 So, the rope is not helping them.
00:51:45.000 That's what's crazy.
00:51:46.000 No.
00:51:46.000 Because if you saw someone just make up their way up a wall like that with no rope.
00:51:50.000 No, the rope's not helping them.
00:51:51.000 That is insane.
00:51:52.000 Yeah, so that's speed climbing.
00:51:54.000 You have to be so strong to do that.
00:51:57.000 I mean, that is just bonkers.
00:52:00.000 Wow.
00:52:01.000 Yeah, I've actually never speed climbed, really.
00:52:05.000 Really?
00:52:05.000 How come?
00:52:06.000 Not like that.
00:52:07.000 Just because I've always focused so much on technical, difficult rock climbing.
00:52:14.000 And other things, like mountains and all these other disciplines.
00:52:17.000 What is this person doing?
00:52:19.000 That's bouldering.
00:52:20.000 Oh, okay.
00:52:20.000 So this is trying to figure out how to do it.
00:52:23.000 She's trying to solve the problem of like... 1.00
00:52:24.000 She has no rope.
00:52:26.000 No rope.
00:52:26.000 So if she falls, she's just going to what?
00:52:28.000 She's just going to hit the pads. 1.00
00:52:30.000 The pads are super thick.
00:52:31.000 They're almost like pole vaulting pads kind of.
00:52:34.000 Oh, okay.
00:52:34.000 Maybe a little more firm than that.
00:52:36.000 Okay.
00:52:37.000 Wow.
00:52:39.000 That's wild to see.
00:52:40.000 Yeah, so that's the Olympics.
00:52:41.000 Yeah.
00:52:42.000 You're not interested in that?
00:52:43.000 I mean, I would have been if I was like 10 years younger.
00:52:50.000 You've passed that.
00:52:51.000 There's no way I could qualify for the Olympics.
00:52:53.000 Really?
00:52:54.000 No way.
00:52:54.000 Why?
00:52:55.000 Why do you say that?
00:52:55.000 Because it's such a different, it's a different, it's almost like a different sport.
00:53:00.000 I understand.
00:53:01.000 And it takes like the dedication to only doing that for years and years and years.
00:53:06.000 And I did that throughout my teenage years and then I kind of moved on to other things.
00:53:10.000 I would imagine that hand strength is one of the most important things.
00:53:15.000 Like the ability to hang on to stuff.
00:53:17.000 Yeah, that's why I travel with my hangboard and hang all the time and do a lot of...
00:53:21.000 Where do you put the hangboard when you travel?
00:53:24.000 Yeah, I bring those pull-up bars that you screw on between the door jamb and then I hang it from there.
00:53:30.000 Wow.
00:53:31.000 And then you just hang.
00:53:32.000 So if you're staying in a hotel, you just hang in the bathroom wall on the door?
00:53:37.000 Yeah.
00:53:38.000 Wow.
00:53:39.000 And do you do it for time?
00:53:41.000 Do you do reps?
00:53:42.000 Do you chin-ups?
00:53:42.000 What do you do on that?
00:53:43.000 Yeah, all of that.
00:53:44.000 There's exercises you can do.
00:53:46.000 There's a lot of I have research now that's been done on finger strength.
00:53:49.000 So that's one of the things you use like that?
00:53:51.000 Yeah.
00:53:52.000 The one I have is wood because the wood is actually a little bit friendlier for your skin.
00:53:57.000 But yeah, similar.
00:53:58.000 You do different hand positions and sometimes you'll hang for like five seconds and then take ten seconds off and do it again.
00:54:05.000 And then sometimes you put weight on your body.
00:54:07.000 Mono?
00:54:08.000 Yeah, mono.
00:54:09.000 Someone can hang from one finger?
00:54:10.000 People can do crazy stuff.
00:54:12.000 People can do pull-ups from one finger.
00:54:14.000 What?!
00:54:15.000 One hand, one finger.
00:54:17.000 Pull-ups.
00:54:17.000 Yeah, people can do front levers from, like, one finger.
00:54:21.000 Climbers are amazing.
00:54:23.000 What is the front lever?
00:54:24.000 When you, like, put your body to parallel to the ground.
00:54:28.000 Oh, when you lean back?
00:54:28.000 Oh, Christ.
00:54:30.000 I bet you could find a video of that.
00:54:31.000 Sure you could.
00:54:32.000 I'm nervous now.
00:54:34.000 So, someone can...
00:54:36.000 There it is.
00:54:36.000 Oh, my God.
00:54:38.000 I can't do that.
00:54:38.000 That is freaky.
00:54:41.000 Jan Hoger is a beastie single finger plank man machine.
00:54:46.000 Yeah.
00:54:47.000 I would agree with that statement.
00:54:49.000 Look at that.
00:54:50.000 That's crazy that he can do that.
00:54:52.000 Yeah.
00:54:52.000 Yeah.
00:54:53.000 That guy must have ridiculous fingers. 0.99
00:54:54.000 He's one of the strongest climbers in the world. 0.99
00:54:56.000 Yeah, I would imagine.
00:54:58.000 That's bananas.
00:54:59.000 Is this him climbing stuff with no feet?
00:55:02.000 Uh-huh.
00:55:04.000 Yeah, that's the tendons and all the stuff in your fingers and your hands. 0.99
00:55:10.000 They must be ridiculous. 0.97
00:55:12.000 Those are pinkies, yeah. 1.00
00:55:14.000 Oh my god, that's crazy.
00:55:16.000 I just heard something.
00:55:17.000 If you lost your pinky, you lose 50% of the strength in your hand.
00:55:20.000 Really?
00:55:21.000 Yeah.
00:55:22.000 I don't have confirmation on that.
00:55:23.000 It's one of those like Snapple fact type facts I saw on the internet recently.
00:55:26.000 How's that possible?
00:55:27.000 That's a bummer.
00:55:28.000 That doesn't seem right.
00:55:29.000 Because when I draw my bow back, I'm only using three fingers.
00:55:34.000 But maybe it's like the way it's all connected.
00:55:36.000 It doesn't feel weak at all.
00:55:37.000 I think it's like if you cut it off, not like if you've done other work to strengthen the rest of your hand.
00:55:42.000 I guess if I'm drawing my bow back, I'm barely using it.
00:55:44.000 I mean, my hand is just kind of locked in place.
00:55:46.000 It's more my back and shoulders.
00:55:48.000 But I feel like that's not real.
00:55:54.000 Maybe.
00:55:55.000 Maybe it's hacked off.
00:55:56.000 Yeah, but it's all linked back into here, you know?
00:55:58.000 Right, in your forearms and everything.
00:56:00.000 That's what makes sense.
00:56:01.000 Yeah.
00:56:02.000 When you squeeze it.
00:56:03.000 Your pinky provides half your hand strength.
00:56:07.000 Wow.
00:56:08.000 Stick your pinkies out and raise your glasses to toast your fifth finger.
00:56:12.000 Without it, your hand would be half as strong.
00:56:14.000 Wow.
00:56:17.000 It's weird that things are connected in that way.
00:56:20.000 Yeah.
00:56:20.000 You know, there's a sort of, it's a unit.
00:56:24.000 It's not one thing.
00:56:25.000 There's a lot going on.
00:56:26.000 Yeah.
00:56:26.000 It's all working together.
00:56:27.000 Yeah.
00:56:28.000 So when you do your hand strength exercises, do you have like a routine where you go one, two, three, four, you'll work all of them?
00:56:33.000 Yeah, I do.
00:56:34.000 I tend to do like hand grip positions.
00:56:38.000 Like I'll hold on to something like this and I'll hold on to something like this and I'll hold on to something like this. 0.99
00:56:43.000 So you must have, like, ridiculous hands. 0.89
00:56:45.000 I mean, my hands are strong, but they're not, like... 0.97
00:56:47.000 That's one of my weaknesses, I think, in climbing is my finger strength.
00:56:51.000 So I'm always working on it.
00:56:52.000 Do you have to make sure that your body weight is very light when you do something like that, too?
00:56:56.000 Like, do you dye it down before you do something to make sure that you're as light as possible?
00:57:01.000 Yeah, it's an interesting subject because climbing is like a strength to weight ratio sport.
00:57:07.000 It does benefit you to be lighter, but at the same time, it's really easy to take it too far.
00:57:16.000 And then once you take it too far, it can be very bad.
00:57:20.000 Injuries, weaker.
00:57:22.000 And eating disorders is definitely a thing in climbing.
00:57:27.000 Yeah, that's what I was going to get to.
00:57:28.000 And I suffered from it when I was younger, when I was heavily involved in competitions.
00:57:33.000 And it's like once you start to experience a little bit of success from losing weight, there's so much more incentive to just keep going down that road.
00:57:42.000 And I think it's actually a pretty dangerous road, and it's something that we're...
00:57:46.000 Climbers are starting to talk about more, which I think is super good and super healthy, especially with the growth of climbing competitions and with the growth of youth becoming more interested in climbing.
00:57:58.000 Right.
00:57:59.000 The edge that you get from doing that is not worth pursuing because there's a lot of negative drawbacks to it.
00:58:04.000 It is, and it's pretty temporary, and it's not very sustainable.
00:58:09.000 In a lot of ways, I feel lucky that I came out of that period and kept climbing because it's hard to...
00:58:17.000 To go through that phase and then come out of it and have to deal with not climbing as well for a while.
00:58:24.000 What does that mean? 0.98
00:58:26.000 It's kind of a mindfuck. 0.62
00:58:28.000 That's why I talk about data the way I do because sometimes I can't emotionally handle it.
00:58:34.000 I need to take a step back and just be intuitive.
00:58:38.000 Yeah.
00:58:39.000 Sometimes there's too much data and not enough just being.
00:58:43.000 Yeah.
00:58:44.000 And I was one of those athletes when I was younger that I was like obsessed with the number on the scale.
00:58:51.000 I was obsessed with how much I ate.
00:58:52.000 I was obsessed with every little thing.
00:58:55.000 And it got to the point where it just almost destroyed me, if that makes sense.
00:59:00.000 Yeah.
00:59:00.000 That's a giant problem with people, right?
00:59:02.000 Yeah.
00:59:03.000 Just in general, being obsessed with the scale and the numbers.
00:59:08.000 Yeah.
00:59:09.000 And if you're in a sport where you're literally carrying your body weight up a mountain, it's not just...
00:59:14.000 So many girls are obsessed with the scale for whatever reason, even if they look good. 1.00
00:59:19.000 They don't like the number.
00:59:20.000 You look great, but you weigh 145 pounds. 1.00
00:59:23.000 Shit, I hate that. 1.00
00:59:24.000 I want to be 135. But you don't. 1.00
00:59:26.000 This is crazy.
00:59:27.000 What are you doing?
00:59:29.000 Yeah, I think it's complicated because then I think, yeah, society, especially as a woman, you kind of tie your self-worth to it and then you tie like your, yeah, your value to society to it.
00:59:38.000 And then if you bring in the athletic side, it's like a lot to handle.
00:59:42.000 Yeah.
00:59:43.000 So, yeah, that's something I've, I mean, I still struggle with it.
00:59:47.000 It's so interesting.
00:59:48.000 There's this woman who is on Instagram. 0.94
00:59:50.000 I forget her name, but she's a beast. 0.97
00:59:51.000 And I mean that in the best way. 1.00
00:59:53.000 She's just a fucking tank. 1.00
00:59:54.000 She's so strong. 1.00
00:59:55.000 And I don't know what she does, some sort of fitness trainer or something like that, but she got on a scale to show that she's 180 pounds. 1.00
01:00:01.000 And she's like, I'm 180 pounds all week. 1.00
01:00:03.000 She looks fantastic.
01:00:05.000 There's no doubt about it.
01:00:06.000 She's in amazing shape.
01:00:07.000 But she's a big gal. 1.00
01:00:09.000 But by getting on that scale and showing, like, hey, fuck your numbers. 1.00
01:00:14.000 I was like, that is great. 1.00
01:00:17.000 It sounds so crazy to say, especially as a man, that it's brave of her to show her weight. 1.00
01:00:22.000 Because men don't give a fuck. 0.99
01:00:24.000 If a man's 180 or 170 or 190, unless you're trying to get big, you don't care. 0.99
01:00:30.000 Or unless you're trying to lose weight.
01:00:32.000 No guy says, oh, no woman's going to like me. 0.97
01:00:34.000 I'm...
01:00:35.000 You know, 195 instead of 170. Like, that's nonsense.
01:00:39.000 No guy thinks like that.
01:00:40.000 Yeah.
01:00:41.000 Like, a number.
01:00:41.000 Like, you have to...
01:00:42.000 Like, no one wants...
01:00:43.000 I don't want anybody to know my number.
01:00:45.000 But for a woman, that's a big issue. 1.00
01:00:47.000 It's a big issue, for sure.
01:00:48.000 And it's like...
01:00:48.000 I mean, I don't weigh myself anymore.
01:00:50.000 Because I'm just like...
01:00:52.000 Right.
01:00:52.000 I don't need to deal with that.
01:00:54.000 It's common for women that have had those issues that just decide, you know what? 1.00
01:00:58.000 I'm just going to be healthy and look good and not think about it.
01:01:01.000 Yeah, yeah.
01:01:02.000 And that's one of the things that's been...
01:01:04.000 There's a lot of things that I actually don't like about social media, but that's one thing that I've really appreciated is women, like you're talking about, sharing those things and being like, yeah, this is who I am.
01:01:12.000 I think she gets enough likes.
01:01:15.000 Yeah, that it's okay.
01:01:17.000 Yeah.
01:01:17.000 She's hot.
01:01:19.000 She knows what she's doing.
01:01:21.000 She's kind of being brave, but also...
01:01:23.000 Yeah, that's fair.
01:01:24.000 She gets enough compliments.
01:01:26.000 But, you know, she's like six foot one or something like that. 1.00
01:01:29.000 But she's a tank. 1.00
01:01:31.000 But I just admired that she put that number out there.
01:01:34.000 She showed it and she was like, look, this is who I am.
01:01:37.000 And for a lot of people, that's important because there's probably people that are struggling with their own weight and they see her and they go, oh...
01:01:46.000 Okay, I'm going to take a little of that.
01:01:49.000 I'm going to adopt a little bit of that attitude.
01:01:52.000 Just don't worry about the number.
01:01:57.000 People can obsess with stuff like that.
01:01:59.000 It's so interesting because it's so sad when you see people that are anorexic.
01:02:05.000 There was a woman that was anorexic in my yoga class. 1.00
01:02:08.000 I vividly remember being in class, laying down the mat, looking over and just go...
01:02:15.000 Like, oh, no.
01:02:16.000 Like, looking at this girl who was like a skeleton, like, what do you say to her?
01:02:20.000 She was young, right?
01:02:22.000 She's probably in her 20s. 1.00
01:02:23.000 And I'm looking at her, and I'm thinking, shit. 0.99
01:02:26.000 And then I asked the yoga instructor, who was my friend, I said, do you know her? 0.99
01:02:30.000 Like, what is her deal?
01:02:31.000 She's like, yeah, she's struggling, and she doesn't think she is, and it's a real issue, and I don't know what to do.
01:02:37.000 And I'm like, you can't even say anything.
01:02:39.000 Like, what do you say?
01:02:40.000 Yeah, I think it's hard to talk about because it's not really talked about.
01:02:45.000 And it's not my place.
01:02:46.000 I don't know her.
01:02:47.000 It's so personal.
01:02:48.000 It's super personal.
01:02:49.000 And I think it's a tricky subject for sure.
01:02:52.000 I've had people come to me and be like, what do I do?
01:02:54.000 I have a friend who it seems like they're struggling.
01:02:58.000 And it's hard because going through it myself, whenever people brought it up, you get very defensive.
01:03:04.000 Yeah.
01:03:04.000 And it's really easy to be like, well, I don't have a problem.
01:03:07.000 I'm fine.
01:03:10.000 I'm doing this for my sport.
01:03:11.000 This is what I need to do.
01:03:13.000 This is how it needs to be.
01:03:14.000 And so I think it's a struggle sort of like navigating how to deal with that, especially with friends and family or something like that.
01:03:21.000 But I think just overall shifting the culture behind it is maybe a possible solution.
01:03:29.000 When you're training for something big like this, do you alter your diet?
01:03:35.000 Do you have specific foods that you eat when you train?
01:03:39.000 Or do you just always maintain a healthy diet?
01:03:42.000 I'm pretty healthy.
01:03:43.000 I also, because of my past obsessiveness about food, I try to not worry about it too much.
01:03:52.000 Also because I travel so much and I love food and I love sharing food and cooking food and eating food.
01:03:58.000 It's just, I don't necessarily worry too much about what I eat.
01:04:04.000 I'm a very healthy eater.
01:04:05.000 I like everything.
01:04:07.000 I try not to worry about it too much.
01:04:09.000 If I want to eat ice cream, I eat ice cream.
01:04:11.000 Good for you.
01:04:12.000 Now, when you go on a long climb like that, do you carb load before you do it?
01:04:17.000 Do you carry a lot of food with you?
01:04:19.000 Yeah, I carry a lot of food with me.
01:04:20.000 It's hard for me to eat on the wall.
01:04:22.000 It's hard for me to, like...
01:04:24.000 Because I get nervous.
01:04:26.000 When I get nervous, you lose your appetite and all those things.
01:04:29.000 And so I try to bring, like, simple foods with me on the wall.
01:04:34.000 And, like, a mix of fat.
01:04:37.000 Just, you know, well-balanced foods.
01:04:39.000 And easy.
01:04:40.000 I don't usually bring like meals.
01:04:42.000 Like I actually brought a burrito on the wall the day that I was going to climb and I didn't eat any of it.
01:04:47.000 So you didn't eat it all while you were on the wall or you just didn't eat the burrito?
01:04:50.000 I didn't eat the burrito.
01:04:50.000 I ate like cereal and nuts and beef jerky and candy because I love candy.
01:04:58.000 But it's probably good too to get some extra sugar, right?
01:05:01.000 Yeah, that's exactly why.
01:05:02.000 Yeah, and replace the glycogen in your muscles.
01:05:06.000 So what is your diet like normally?
01:05:08.000 Like what kind of foods do you eat?
01:05:10.000 When you say you eat healthy, do you...
01:05:12.000 Yeah, I eat super healthy.
01:05:14.000 I love pancakes in the morning, but with protein and avocado toast and eggs, whatever.
01:05:25.000 Salad, vegetables.
01:05:25.000 I imagine you're burning off an insane amount of calories doing that too.
01:05:29.000 Sometimes.
01:05:29.000 It depends on what you're doing.
01:05:31.000 If you're free climbing all cap in a day, then yes.
01:05:32.000 But if you're just going to the gym for an hour and a half, or if you're just hanging...
01:05:36.000 On the hanging board.
01:05:36.000 I see you have some sort of a fitness watch on.
01:05:39.000 What are you wearing?
01:05:40.000 Oh, I have this.
01:05:41.000 It's new, actually.
01:05:42.000 Adrian got it for me.
01:05:43.000 It's a Garmin.
01:05:44.000 It's like a Phoenix Sapphire.
01:05:46.000 Oh, cool.
01:05:48.000 Sweet looking.
01:05:49.000 Thanks.
01:05:50.000 Does that measure output, calories, heart rate?
01:05:53.000 It's meant to, yeah.
01:05:54.000 It measures your heart rate.
01:05:55.000 I use it for my running and stuff.
01:05:57.000 I'd be so curious to see how many calories you burn on a 21 hour trip up the side of a mountain.
01:06:04.000 I'd imagine thousands.
01:06:05.000 Thousands.
01:06:06.000 But that's the thing, I don't wear it when I climb because you put your hands in the cracks.
01:06:10.000 Of course.
01:06:10.000 And they get all stuck.
01:06:11.000 Right, that's right.
01:06:12.000 I should have thought of that.
01:06:14.000 Yeah, but the amount, like, it's also like a mental thing too, right?
01:06:19.000 Your mind must be burning a shit ton of calories too.
01:06:22.000 Yeah, I think there's a lot of mental fatigue that goes on.
01:06:24.000 We were talking the other day about chess masters and that when chess masters play in these tournaments, they burn 6,000 calories a day.
01:06:33.000 Really?
01:06:33.000 Yeah, they found out that these guys were losing incredible amounts of weight over a weekend.
01:06:38.000 Because of stress.
01:06:38.000 Just thinking.
01:06:39.000 Just thinking.
01:06:40.000 I could see that.
01:06:41.000 Yeah, I mean, I guess it makes sense, but your brain, when you're calculating all these different maneuvers and different places that your opponent can move his pieces, you're just constantly...
01:06:53.000 You've got all these RPMs going.
01:06:55.000 Even though you're sitting there, your body's just burning off fuel.
01:07:00.000 Yeah, that makes a lot of sense, actually.
01:07:01.000 So I'd imagine some of that's going on, too, with you.
01:07:04.000 Because you're physically climbing, but you're also thinking, you're calculating, you're trying to stay calm.
01:07:11.000 There's a lot going on.
01:07:12.000 There's a lot going on, yeah.
01:07:13.000 Do you meditate?
01:07:15.000 Do you have any...
01:07:17.000 Mental exercises that you participate in?
01:07:19.000 I visualize.
01:07:22.000 So I'm one of those people like I can I can almost remember every move of like the Golden Gate.
01:07:32.000 Then I'll like go, I'll like lay in bed at night and like go through all the moves over and over and over again, almost to a fault, you know, like, I can remember things really well.
01:07:40.000 And I'll go over sequences and I'll, I'll lay down and I'll think about myself climbing, like executing these sequences really perfectly.
01:07:49.000 So, you know where all the handholds are, where the footholds are?
01:07:53.000 You know what freaks me out about that stuff?
01:07:54.000 It's like, don't those break off sometimes?
01:07:57.000 Yeah, it happens occasionally, yep.
01:08:00.000 It depends on the type of rock.
01:08:02.000 Like, some rock is more prone to breaking than others.
01:08:04.000 The way you said that was way too casual.
01:08:06.000 But it doesn't happen.
01:08:07.000 Yeah, it happens occasionally.
01:08:08.000 Occasionally.
01:08:08.000 Not very often.
01:08:11.000 Yeah, and especially like the well-traveled routes.
01:08:13.000 Yeah.
01:08:13.000 You know, they don't have as much.
01:08:15.000 What if some giant person was on it before you and they put their heavy ass on that handhold? 0.99
01:08:19.000 Yeah, sometimes I worry about that. 0.99
01:08:21.000 I would imagine.
01:08:22.000 Yeah.
01:08:23.000 And then you go to grab it.
01:08:24.000 I'm like breaking my, yeah.
01:08:25.000 Snap.
01:08:27.000 So I was looking at some of the things that Alex was holding onto when he was free soloing, and I'm like, what are you doing?
01:08:33.000 That's not holding your body weight, man.
01:08:35.000 Yeah, that rock is pretty solid, though, and a lot of people climb that route, and it's been there for, you know, forever.
01:08:44.000 And when you're imagining it in your head, do you sit yourself down and go through the whole path?
01:08:51.000 Because the path takes 21 hours to do, so you can't really go through the whole thing.
01:08:55.000 Yeah, I mean, I skip over some of the easy parts, but the hard parts I have really ingrained in my brain.
01:09:01.000 To the point where I think it kind of hinders me sometimes because I'll go through the moves and then I'll go through all the things that can go wrong.
01:09:09.000 And then that kind of messes with me a little bit.
01:09:11.000 Do you write it down?
01:09:12.000 I've written it down too, yeah.
01:09:14.000 You draw the path?
01:09:16.000 I draw it out.
01:09:16.000 Only I can understand it, but I draw it out.
01:09:20.000 Is it sort of an Emily code?
01:09:22.000 Yeah.
01:09:22.000 I just try to draw the holds and then I write where my feet go and where my hands go.
01:09:28.000 Do you think of this career that you are currently involved in as a life journey?
01:09:34.000 Is this going to be something that you do your whole life?
01:09:37.000 Yes.
01:09:38.000 So you are a climber.
01:09:40.000 Yes.
01:09:40.000 Do you have any other ideas of things that you would like to do in this life?
01:09:45.000 Or you just...
01:09:46.000 This is your career, no matter what?
01:09:48.000 I mean, I think at this point, this is my career.
01:09:51.000 I'm pretty well established as a professional rock climber, and I feel...
01:09:58.000 Yeah, I'm not bored.
01:10:00.000 This is what I want.
01:10:01.000 I'm super excited for future opportunities, for future objectives and goals and things like that.
01:10:08.000 And Adrian and I have sort of like built this life together.
01:10:12.000 Did you meet him climbing?
01:10:13.000 I did.
01:10:13.000 I met him on Mount Everest.
01:10:16.000 Aww.
01:10:17.000 Yeah.
01:10:19.000 Both up there risking our lives.
01:10:23.000 Yeah, and he has a guiding business alongside his professional athlete career.
01:10:29.000 And so, yeah, I feel like we've just built this life together and we're both super passionate and supportive of each other.
01:10:37.000 And I think we want to have a family someday.
01:10:41.000 It's really cool that you're involved with someone who has the same passion too.
01:10:46.000 They'll understand you.
01:10:48.000 Yeah, it's super important and it's important because both of us go away on separate trips sometimes and instead of the other person just sitting at home kind of worrying and stressing out, we kind of understand what the other person is going through.
01:11:06.000 It feels like we have a really symbiotic relationship in that way because we really do understand what the other person does.
01:11:13.000 Beyond.
01:11:14.000 I mean, no other person is ever...
01:11:17.000 A person who doesn't climb at all?
01:11:19.000 I would imagine...
01:11:20.000 It'd be hard, I think.
01:11:21.000 Yeah.
01:11:22.000 Not impossible, but...
01:11:23.000 My female friends that are comedians have the sort of same attitude about normies, what they call normies, like some normal person who doesn't do comedy. 0.95
01:11:31.000 Okay.
01:11:31.000 They're never going to understand them.
01:11:33.000 Right.
01:11:33.000 Like, just that...
01:11:35.000 I have some female friends, like my friend Eliza Schlesinger, she has a husband who's a chef, and it works out great.
01:11:41.000 But a lot of them, they'll try regular people, and they wind up dating comedians, because no one's going to understand them.
01:11:46.000 We have the same joke in climbing, I think.
01:11:49.000 People always say, oh, I'd really like to not date a climber, but then it's like, well then...
01:11:53.000 You gotta, like, go do other things besides climbing.
01:11:56.000 Right.
01:11:56.000 What are you gonna do?
01:11:57.000 Where are you gonna meet those people?
01:11:58.000 And then when you meet them, what are you gonna do with them?
01:12:01.000 Exactly.
01:12:02.000 Right?
01:12:03.000 Like, where are you gonna go?
01:12:04.000 You're gonna go out to eat, I guess.
01:12:05.000 Yeah.
01:12:05.000 Hey, I'm gonna go climb for 20 hours.
01:12:07.000 What are you doing today, Bob?
01:12:08.000 Yeah.
01:12:09.000 Well, I thought we could hang out.
01:12:10.000 Yeah, exactly. 1.00
01:12:11.000 Okay, well, come climb with me, bitch. 1.00
01:12:12.000 Yeah. 1.00
01:12:14.000 Exactly.
01:12:15.000 Yeah.
01:12:16.000 The Mount Everest thing is an odd one, right?
01:12:18.000 Because it seems to be sort of a weird sort of bucket list thing that's also attached to a social...
01:12:31.000 This is like a social medal to, oh, I climbed Everest.
01:12:36.000 Yeah.
01:12:36.000 I have a very intense love-hate relationship with Mount Everest.
01:12:40.000 It is like, I was very fortunate to be able to go on an expedition to climb Mount Everest, and that's where I met Adrian, and My life sort of changed directions after that.
01:12:51.000 But that said, he goes back to Everest every single year to guide or for his own personal projects or whatever that may be because he guides Everest every year.
01:13:03.000 And so for me, it's like Everest just became a part of my everyday life.
01:13:10.000 You're always planning for the next expedition or on the next expedition or thinking about the expedition.
01:13:15.000 And so it just kind of took over in a way for a few years there and I got really, really tired of it.
01:13:22.000 How many times have you climbed Everest?
01:13:23.000 I've only climbed it once.
01:13:25.000 Adrian's climbed it eight times.
01:13:26.000 How many bodies did you see?
01:13:28.000 That's a common question I get.
01:13:31.000 There are bodies on Everest.
01:13:33.000 I... Maybe saw like two or three.
01:13:39.000 That is one of the most wild things about Everest.
01:13:45.000 It is wild.
01:13:46.000 It's something that I think people in that world are pretty accustomed to.
01:13:51.000 That's a crazy thing to be accustomed to.
01:13:54.000 If your buddy leaves, you're like, we lost him.
01:13:58.000 It's over.
01:13:59.000 He's right there!
01:14:00.000 He's right there.
01:14:01.000 No, no, it's over.
01:14:03.000 Leave him. 0.78
01:14:03.000 You gotta go. 0.78
01:14:04.000 No, no, no.
01:14:05.000 He's right there.
01:14:06.000 I can touch him.
01:14:07.000 I'm gonna reach down.
01:14:07.000 I'm touching his head.
01:14:08.000 He's gone, man.
01:14:09.000 We gotta let him go.
01:14:10.000 He's breathing.
01:14:11.000 And he's right there.
01:14:12.000 He's dead.
01:14:13.000 You gotta let him go.
01:14:14.000 What are you talking about?
01:14:16.000 There's more than 100 bodies laying on Mount Everest.
01:14:19.000 But there's an open debate whether to remove them or leave them be. 0.99
01:14:22.000 Fucking leave them. 0.99
01:14:23.000 Yeah, that's kind of what, yeah. 0.99
01:14:26.000 It's actually super dangerous, is the thing, to remove bodies from Mount Everest.
01:14:31.000 Like, you're putting other people in danger to get them down.
01:14:34.000 And what's the point?
01:14:35.000 And also, I think there's something about, like, the first guy to ever climb Everest is still up there, right?
01:14:42.000 What's that guy's name?
01:14:43.000 Potentially.
01:14:43.000 It's kind of like a great mystery.
01:14:45.000 Oh, really?
01:14:46.000 Yeah.
01:14:46.000 Because he vanished?
01:14:47.000 No, there's a...
01:14:48.000 So, the mystery of whether or not Mallory and Irvine summited Mount Everest is still like...
01:14:56.000 It's still out there, basically.
01:14:58.000 Oh, they might not have ever actually made it to the top?
01:15:00.000 No.
01:15:00.000 So, okay.
01:15:00.000 So, the first...
01:15:01.000 I don't want to mess this up.
01:15:04.000 The first ascent of Mount Everest happened in like the 50s, I think.
01:15:08.000 But there's this argument that maybe it happened way back in like the 1920s because there was an expedition to Everest.
01:15:14.000 George Mallory and Sandy Irvine like went out to go climb Mount Everest and they essentially disappeared.
01:15:21.000 And it's still a question as to whether or not they summited.
01:15:28.000 So this is someone who has to...
01:15:29.000 Is this people that have actually done it, Jamie?
01:15:31.000 This is a list of people who are supposedly died climbing.
01:15:35.000 George Mallory and Sandy Irvine set out to climb Mount Everest in 1924. And they essentially disappeared.
01:15:43.000 But nobody's sure if they summited and died on the way down or if they died on the way up.
01:15:47.000 Because if they summited and died on the way down, then they're the first people to summit.
01:15:51.000 Right.
01:15:51.000 And so people are still looking.
01:15:52.000 They actually found George Mallory's body in the 90s.
01:15:56.000 And as the story goes, he was meant to leave a photo of his wife on the summit, so he carried a photo in his jacket.
01:16:03.000 Possible ice axe injury following a fall, body found in 1999. Yikes!
01:16:10.000 So people are still looking for Irvine, because apparently he had a camera.
01:16:13.000 Oh, wow!
01:16:15.000 Yeah. 0.99
01:16:16.000 So if you find the camera, do you think the footage would be fucked? 0.98
01:16:18.000 I don't know. 0.98
01:16:19.000 That's another question.
01:16:20.000 See, there's a photo of Mallory's body, Jamie.
01:16:23.000 It's kind of dark because you see his porcelain white frozen skin exposed by the sun and he's face down, I believe. 0.93
01:16:32.000 I think that's the photo I'm thinking of.
01:16:33.000 And he's got these old-timey clothes on, too.
01:16:36.000 So it's like, that's it.
01:16:39.000 That's the photo right there.
01:16:40.000 That is rough, man.
01:16:42.000 That photo freaks me the fuck out every time I look at it.
01:16:47.000 Because that guy is rock solid frozen there.
01:16:50.000 Like a piece of stone. 1.00
01:16:52.000 And he will be there unless climate change melts his ass. 1.00
01:16:58.000 Right? 1.00
01:16:58.000 Yeah. 1.00
01:16:59.000 I mean that is fucking crazy. 0.99
01:17:02.000 It's just... 0.99
01:17:03.000 Look at his shoes have rotted off.
01:17:06.000 Oh my god.
01:17:06.000 You can see the bones of his foot and everything.
01:17:10.000 That is hardcore.
01:17:12.000 Yeah.
01:17:12.000 It was a long time ago.
01:17:14.000 Oh yeah.
01:17:15.000 Yeah.
01:17:15.000 I mean, the equipment they had back then was like Nothing.
01:17:20.000 I know.
01:17:21.000 What kind of clothes were they wearing?
01:17:23.000 Probably wool.
01:17:24.000 Yeah, exactly.
01:17:26.000 I think there's a tradition to leaving the bodies there.
01:17:33.000 There's something about people that are doing it that know they're risking their life.
01:17:38.000 That's an affirmation.
01:17:40.000 Like, hey, there's a guy that didn't make it.
01:17:42.000 What you're doing is crazy.
01:17:44.000 It's really hard.
01:17:45.000 So I think...
01:17:47.000 It's one of the rare moments in life where I think there's some beauty to leaving a dead body on the spot.
01:17:56.000 Yeah.
01:17:57.000 And also it just makes sense.
01:18:00.000 It seems fitting.
01:18:01.000 Yeah.
01:18:02.000 Well, it's also...
01:18:04.000 Everybody's doing that.
01:18:05.000 Other than the few douchebags that are just doing it for social cred, there's a lot of people that are just...
01:18:12.000 What they're doing is they've decided to test themselves in one of the most extreme ways possible.
01:18:18.000 You're literally risking your life to reach the highest spot.
01:18:21.000 Well, not the highest, but one of the highest spots on Earth.
01:18:24.000 It's not the highest, right?
01:18:25.000 No, it's the highest.
01:18:26.000 Is Everest the highest?
01:18:27.000 Yeah.
01:18:28.000 But is K2 the highest in terms of its relation to the ocean or sea level?
01:18:33.000 Yeah.
01:18:33.000 No, that's something different.
01:18:36.000 It's different?
01:18:37.000 K2 is the second highest, but K2 is considered significantly more technical and dangerous than Everest.
01:18:44.000 Actually, there's a lot of mountains that are considered more difficult and dangerous than Mount Everest.
01:18:51.000 And when a guy decides, like, hey, you know, I want to show off and be the man who climbs Mount Everest in my neighborhood, do they have a requirement, like how much they have to train for something like that?
01:19:02.000 Because I know of rich people that are not really climbers that have climbed Everest.
01:19:07.000 Yeah.
01:19:07.000 Yeah, so Everest is a really interesting one because Everest has become very commercialized, so there's a lot of companies that guide Mount Everest, including Adrian's company.
01:19:21.000 What's Adrian's company's name?
01:19:22.000 His company is called Alpenglow Expeditions.
01:19:25.000 Alpenglow? 0.55
01:19:26.000 Alpenglow Expeditions.
01:19:27.000 They have a website?
01:19:29.000 Yes, they do.
01:19:30.000 What is the website?
01:19:31.000 Alpenglow Expeditions.com.
01:19:33.000 You can sign up.
01:19:34.000 You can go anywhere in the world, basically, and go climb.
01:19:35.000 Go climb with Adrian.
01:19:36.000 Yeah.
01:19:38.000 So there's a bunch of companies that guide Mount Everest from both sides.
01:19:42.000 There it is.
01:19:43.000 There it is.
01:19:44.000 There's the website.
01:19:44.000 Are you backcountry ready?
01:19:46.000 Yeah.
01:19:47.000 We're getting ready for backcountry ski season.
01:19:48.000 Mm-hmm.
01:19:50.000 And the guiding on Mount Everest has become pretty lucrative.
01:19:55.000 And there's guiding from the Chinese side and from the Nepal side.
01:19:59.000 And both of those governments obviously benefit from that.
01:20:03.000 And so from the Nepal side, it's a little bit...
01:20:10.000 Essentially, it's just up to the companies who they take and who they don't take.
01:20:14.000 So for Alpenglow, for instance, you do need previous requirements in order to climb Mount Everest.
01:20:19.000 You have to have climbed another 8,000 meter peak and have gone through some rock climbing skills schools.
01:20:25.000 But then other companies will just take anyone if you have the money and if you pay for it.
01:20:30.000 And that's where a lot of the issues on Mount Everest arise is because you have a lot of inexperienced people up there.
01:20:35.000 And you have a lot of We're good to go.
01:21:07.000 I can only imagine.
01:21:08.000 Yeah.
01:21:09.000 But experienced people die too, right?
01:21:11.000 Experienced people do die, but less so.
01:21:13.000 For example, when Adrian goes to Everest, I do not worry about it.
01:21:17.000 What?
01:21:18.000 No.
01:21:18.000 Not at all?
01:21:19.000 Not even a little bit.
01:21:20.000 Wow.
01:21:21.000 Because he uses oxygen.
01:21:22.000 That's another thing.
01:21:23.000 Using oxygen versus not using oxygen.
01:21:25.000 The one time I did worry about him, he climbed Everest without oxygen, which is infinitely more difficult and more dangerous.
01:21:31.000 Yeah.
01:21:33.000 Experienced people do die up there, but less so.
01:21:38.000 Wim Hof climbed Mount Everest with sandals on and shorts.
01:21:43.000 It's the guy that goes in the breathing guy.
01:21:46.000 Yeah, I met him.
01:21:47.000 We did a little clinic with him.
01:21:49.000 He said, it's too easy!
01:21:50.000 Yeah, he's a character. 0.96
01:21:52.000 Oh, he's a freak. 0.95
01:21:53.000 He's a real freak. 0.95
01:21:55.000 Like a legitimate freak of nature.
01:21:57.000 And Will.
01:21:59.000 Does he have the world record for swimming under ice?
01:22:04.000 No.
01:22:05.000 He's got some crazy record for swimming under ice and there he is, climbing Everest. 1.00
01:22:09.000 Fucking sandals on, with an ice pick, no oxygen, and shorts. 0.99
01:22:16.000 Wait, is that really? 1.00
01:22:17.000 Wow, that's crazy.
01:22:18.000 I've never seen that photo. 0.95
01:22:19.000 Dude, he's a freak.
01:22:21.000 Like, he's a legit freak. 0.99
01:22:25.000 Yeah, he's another one that's got some sort of different wavelength of mental strength. 0.51
01:22:31.000 Well, it is mental strength, but it's also breathing.
01:22:34.000 Yeah, the breathing thing.
01:22:35.000 Breathing exercises.
01:22:36.000 Breathing exercises are so strange because you think, well, I breathe.
01:22:40.000 Everybody breathes.
01:22:42.000 But you don't realize, here it is, Hoff has set the world record for the longest time in direct full-body contact with ice a total of 16 times, including 1 hour, 42 minutes, and 22 seconds on the 23rd of January, 1 hour, 44 minutes.
01:22:55.000 But this is a different record.
01:22:57.000 He did something where he swam under ice.
01:23:01.000 He swam in the ocean.
01:23:03.000 They cut a hole in the ice and he swam under it to another place.
01:23:06.000 Yeah, 57.5 meters.
01:23:09.000 He set the Guinness World Record for the farthest swim under ice. 0.99
01:23:13.000 57 fucking meters under ice. 0.99
01:23:16.000 Jesus, that's long. 0.99
01:23:18.000 Yeah, have you ever done like those ice bath things?
01:23:20.000 No.
01:23:21.000 I've done cryotherapy, but it's easy.
01:23:23.000 It's three minutes.
01:23:25.000 But those ice bath things.
01:23:26.000 It takes your breath away.
01:23:27.000 It's really hard.
01:23:28.000 I don't even like cold showers.
01:23:29.000 No.
01:23:30.000 When I lived in Boston, there was a guy at my taekwondo gym.
01:23:33.000 His name was Bob Caffarella.
01:23:34.000 Everybody was scared of him because he was like an advanced black belt.
01:23:38.000 And he would shower in the winter in Boston in cold water.
01:23:41.000 So he'd get done training.
01:23:43.000 Yeah, it's really good for you.
01:23:44.000 But I didn't think it was good for you.
01:23:45.000 I thought it was just a...
01:23:46.000 For him, it was just like a mental strength thing.
01:23:49.000 He would just get in the water.
01:23:51.000 He lived in the gym, like literally lived in the gym and taught out of the gym.
01:23:54.000 Like he was super dedicated.
01:23:56.000 But he would turn the cold water on and just get in that cold.
01:23:59.000 Everybody was like, what are you doing?
01:24:01.000 We're all scared of him.
01:24:02.000 His mind was so strong. 1.00
01:24:04.000 Because Boston is cold as shit. 0.99
01:24:07.000 That water is barely not frozen. 0.99
01:24:09.000 And so he's in there with like 33 degree water just having it pour all over his body after training.
01:24:14.000 Yeah.
01:24:15.000 That's pretty cool.
01:24:15.000 I mean, I think there is something to learn there.
01:24:18.000 Like the mind over matter thing.
01:24:20.000 Yeah, and also learning that it's actually beneficial for you and that you really do get something out of it.
01:24:27.000 Norepinephrine gets jacked through the roof.
01:24:30.000 When you get out of there, you feel amazing.
01:24:31.000 Yeah.
01:24:32.000 Like, cryotherapy.
01:24:33.000 Like, I had Dr. Rhonda Patrick, and I took her to a cryotherapy place in Woodland Hills back when we were in L.A. And she had never done it before, but she was aware of the hormetic effects.
01:24:43.000 And so, as a doctor, she was really interested in, as a clinical researcher, interested in, like, what it felt like for her body.
01:24:50.000 And she got out of there.
01:24:51.000 She was like, this is amazing!
01:24:52.000 She starts rattling off all the things that are actually happening to your body.
01:24:55.000 I'm like, wow.
01:24:56.000 What a good person to bring to a cryotherapy place.
01:24:59.000 Like someone who actually understands the physiological benefits and is experiencing them and then relaying them to you as she's experiencing them.
01:25:06.000 Wow.
01:25:06.000 Yeah, it's pretty intense.
01:25:07.000 Have you done those cryotherapy places?
01:25:10.000 I've never been to one of those.
01:25:11.000 The real good ones, I mean, they're all good for you.
01:25:13.000 We have one here.
01:25:14.000 We actually have a tank here.
01:25:15.000 But it's one of these below the neck.
01:25:17.000 The really good ones is the whole body.
01:25:20.000 Your whole, like even your head?
01:25:22.000 Yes, everything.
01:25:23.000 Because the ones below, what they're using is liquid nitrogen.
01:25:26.000 You can't breathe it in.
01:25:27.000 If you breathe it in, you'll black out and people have actually died doing that.
01:25:30.000 Like where they've had no supervision and then set it up themselves.
01:25:34.000 The ones that they do at Cryo Healthcare in Woodland Hills and in LA, those are all freezing the air.
01:25:42.000 So they're using the liquid nitrogen to freeze the air and get the air down to 250 degrees below zero.
01:25:48.000 And then they pump this freezing cold air in the room and you can breathe it in.
01:25:53.000 So you wear a mask, a surgical mask you would wear with COVID. You wear earmuffs.
01:25:57.000 You wear mittens on your hands.
01:25:59.000 And you have to wear underwear.
01:26:01.000 And you wear socks and rubber Crocs.
01:26:04.000 That's actually a big one.
01:26:06.000 Oh, wow.
01:26:06.000 Oh, that's interesting.
01:26:07.000 I've never seen one that big.
01:26:08.000 Is that out here?
01:26:09.000 It may be.
01:26:10.000 There's apparently one out here like that that does full body. 0.56
01:26:14.000 Does it feel like unbearably cold?
01:26:16.000 Oh, yeah.
01:26:17.000 Oh, yeah.
01:26:18.000 Yeah.
01:26:19.000 You've done it.
01:26:20.000 Yeah.
01:26:20.000 What does it feel?
01:26:21.000 It's fucking cold. 0.99
01:26:22.000 How many times have you done it? 0.99
01:26:23.000 Three times, maybe?
01:26:25.000 Yeah. 0.97
01:26:25.000 You can't wait for the song to end because you know you get the fuck out of there. 0.97
01:26:28.000 Yeah. 0.98
01:26:29.000 I have certain songs that I listen to that I know I'm going to be freezing my ass off.
01:26:34.000 And you just do three minutes?
01:26:35.000 Three minutes, yeah.
01:26:36.000 But I did...
01:26:37.000 There's a guy who was working there that he was always trying to see how much I can endure because he's like, I think you can do more.
01:26:45.000 I'm like, let's see.
01:26:46.000 Just a glutton for punishment sort of thing.
01:26:48.000 So I got to three minutes and 40 seconds.
01:26:50.000 That's the most I've ever done.
01:26:51.000 Wow.
01:26:51.000 It's not enjoyable.
01:26:52.000 And I do it twice too.
01:26:54.000 I do it and then I take like 10 minutes off for my body to recharge and then I go back in again.
01:26:59.000 And supposedly there's a significant benefit in doing it two times.
01:27:04.000 Huh.
01:27:06.000 Yeah.
01:27:06.000 Yeah.
01:27:07.000 Do you do it before training or after training?
01:27:10.000 No.
01:27:10.000 I do it after training, but you really should put a large buffer.
01:27:18.000 There's a great benefit in your body being heated up and your body's natural healing and recovering.
01:27:25.000 There's a lot of debate as to how much time you should spend post-workout before you get in an ice bath.
01:27:33.000 And that same applies, that same thought process applies to cryotherapy.
01:27:39.000 Sauna, on the other hand, they think you should do right after training.
01:27:43.000 So if you go, like, I'll train and then I'll get in a 185 degree sauna like right away.
01:27:48.000 So I'll turn the sauna on before I work out and then when I'm done with working out, I go right into the sauna.
01:27:54.000 And they think that that...
01:27:55.000 It conveys an additional benefit that's similar to continuing a workout.
01:28:01.000 So increase in red blood cells and increase that almost mimics a low level of blood doping.
01:28:10.000 So you get an increased benefit in your cardiovascular capability and then you also get the heat shock proteins that reduce inflammation so you feel really good.
01:28:22.000 So you can do that right after training, but they don't recommend ice baths or cryo.
01:28:26.000 They used to think you should do it right afterwards, but now they don't think so.
01:28:29.000 They think you should wait a couple hours, especially strength training.
01:28:32.000 Interesting.
01:28:33.000 Yeah. 0.98
01:28:34.000 But it's cold as fuck when you're 250 degrees below zero. 0.99
01:28:39.000 You can't believe how cold it is. 0.99
01:28:40.000 You're like, what is this?
01:28:41.000 So it's colder than like an ice bath then.
01:28:43.000 Oh yeah.
01:28:44.000 But not...
01:28:45.000 I don't know if it's as uncomfortable.
01:28:47.000 Yeah, because the ice bath thing was really cold with Wim Hof.
01:28:50.000 We had to get in it and like sing Twinkle Twinkle Little Star or something.
01:28:54.000 And then we were like allowed to get out.
01:28:57.000 Yeah.
01:28:58.000 That's hilarious.
01:28:59.000 Did you do a seminar with him or something?
01:29:01.000 Yeah, it was like...
01:29:02.000 The North Face has these...
01:29:03.000 They call them athlete summits.
01:29:05.000 And so we all get together for a few days and do activities and team building stuff.
01:29:11.000 And Wim Hof came to one of them and he did the whole...
01:29:13.000 This whole seminar.
01:29:14.000 And we had these kiddie pools with ice in them, and we all had to get in and sing Twinkle Twinkle Little Star.
01:29:20.000 Well, there's a thing that you can get now that we're going to get here for the studio that is an ice bath, but you don't have to add ice to it.
01:29:29.000 It's a machine, and the machine chills the water right to the point where it would freeze.
01:29:35.000 And so you get to right about 33, 34 degrees, and then you climb in this ridiculously cold water.
01:29:44.000 And everybody says that that's a better option, because then you don't have to go to a gas station and buy a bunch of bags of ice every time you do it.
01:29:51.000 Yeah, that makes sense.
01:29:52.000 Because my friends that have, like, just a tub, and they just throw it...
01:29:55.000 Like, every time you do that, you've got to go to the gas station or wherever you get your ice from.
01:29:59.000 Yeah.
01:29:59.000 Buy a ton of ice.
01:30:01.000 Yeah.
01:30:01.000 Do you do any kind of, like...
01:30:03.000 Do you wear, like, Normatec boots or anything like that?
01:30:05.000 Do you have any...
01:30:06.000 Norma Tech boots.
01:30:07.000 What are those?
01:30:07.000 Those are those things that like a lot of runners put on.
01:30:10.000 Oh, the things you put on that compression?
01:30:11.000 Jamie, you just did it, right?
01:30:12.000 It's pretty dope, right?
01:30:13.000 No, I've seen that.
01:30:15.000 I don't do that, no.
01:30:16.000 Yeah, I have them.
01:30:17.000 I need to use them.
01:30:17.000 They sent them to me.
01:30:18.000 I got to put them on.
01:30:19.000 But Jamie, you really liked it, right?
01:30:21.000 Yeah.
01:30:21.000 How long did you wear it for?
01:30:23.000 It recommends to do, what is it, like 20 to 60 minutes.
01:30:26.000 I think I just did 30 just to try it.
01:30:29.000 And then I did another 45-minute session the next day.
01:30:31.000 Did you feel better when you got out of them?
01:30:34.000 What does it feel like?
01:30:35.000 I love the feeling of it.
01:30:37.000 Like, a leg massage?
01:30:39.000 If someone could massage my leg all day long, I'd pay an ungodly amount of money probably for it.
01:30:43.000 All day long?
01:30:44.000 I think I have restless leg syndrome, which may or may not be accurate, or I've looked up how I have it or why.
01:30:50.000 What is that?
01:30:51.000 I don't know.
01:30:53.000 Yeah, I've heard of it, but I don't think I have it. 0.95
01:30:56.000 It's funny, I just said reckless leg syndrome, which is even more ridiculous. 0.99
01:31:00.000 The feeling of it bothers the shit. 0.99
01:31:01.000 It's really hard to explain. 0.99
01:31:03.000 That's why I think people don't think it's real.
01:31:07.000 I just can't sit still.
01:31:08.000 I can't keep my legs still. 0.65
01:31:09.000 I feel like I have to kick them or move them.
01:31:10.000 They're still right now.
01:31:11.000 Right now it's not bothering me, but sometimes at night if I'll be sitting and try to watch TV, I can't keep my leg comfortable.
01:31:18.000 Is that why you like running?
01:31:20.000 I thought running helped it, which the most recent time I did, I ran and it bothered me at night.
01:31:26.000 I was like, well, it doesn't fix it, but that's what it seems like it is.
01:31:29.000 It's like you're not moving enough during the day.
01:31:31.000 You have some buildup and that's what it is.
01:31:33.000 But I don't think that's what it is.
01:31:35.000 And there's got to be studies that people have looked into that, but either way.
01:31:38.000 Have you ever tried bodyweight squats?
01:31:40.000 Yep.
01:31:41.000 It doesn't do it?
01:31:42.000 There is not a thing I've found to fix this.
01:31:44.000 And I've had it since I was like 12. And I told my dad, he's like, shut up, you don't have that.
01:31:48.000 It was like commercials that would pop up on TV for some pills for it or something.
01:31:52.000 And I'm like, dad, can we try the thing?
01:31:54.000 And he's like, no, you're fine.
01:31:56.000 You're a kid. 1.00
01:31:56.000 Don't be an idiot. 1.00
01:31:58.000 These things, the Norma Tech boots... 1.00
01:32:00.000 I've seen them like, that's going to be the most amazing fix for that feeling.
01:32:06.000 It was.
01:32:06.000 I mean, I'm not saying I'm a doctor, everyone should get them, but I love it.
01:32:10.000 So after you did it, did it alleviate that feeling?
01:32:13.000 Yeah, yeah, yeah.
01:32:14.000 And every time I'm going to have it for now on, I was like, time to put the boots on and lay down, whatever, and I'll be probably fine.
01:32:18.000 And what's dope is you can put the boots on and just watch TV, right?
01:32:22.000 It's not that loud.
01:32:23.000 The machine's not loud.
01:32:24.000 It's battery-powered things.
01:32:25.000 I thought I had to leave it in the wall.
01:32:26.000 It's not.
01:32:27.000 You can take it anywhere.
01:32:28.000 Oh.
01:32:29.000 Pretty cool.
01:32:29.000 So you never mess with any of that?
01:32:30.000 No.
01:32:31.000 No.
01:32:31.000 We'll get something sent to you.
01:32:32.000 I mean, maybe I should.
01:32:33.000 Yeah.
01:32:33.000 Alright, we'll get something sent to you.
01:32:35.000 But you use a lacrosse ball.
01:32:37.000 I love that.
01:32:37.000 I use a lacrosse ball.
01:32:38.000 It's so easy.
01:32:39.000 Those are phenomenal.
01:32:39.000 Just travel with it.
01:32:41.000 Love them.
01:32:41.000 It's awesome.
01:32:42.000 And you can really dig in with those suckers.
01:32:44.000 Yeah.
01:32:44.000 Especially if you've got a good hardwood floor.
01:32:46.000 Yeah.
01:32:46.000 You can really lay on your back.
01:32:48.000 Yeah.
01:32:49.000 The one that gets me is like the hip flexor.
01:32:51.000 Can you lay on that?
01:32:53.000 Yeah.
01:32:54.000 It's super painful.
01:32:56.000 Flexibility has got to be very important.
01:32:57.000 You said you were really flexible because you were a gymnast, right?
01:33:00.000 Yeah.
01:33:00.000 And you don't have a routine?
01:33:03.000 Were you like a daily stretch routine?
01:33:05.000 No.
01:33:05.000 I do stretch.
01:33:08.000 I have like one of those Yoga Glow membership things and I'll...
01:33:13.000 What does that mean?
01:33:13.000 What's Yoga Glow?
01:33:14.000 Yoga Glow is like a website that you go to and it's like...
01:33:17.000 You can watch a video of, like, a yoga class, basically.
01:33:21.000 And I'm really bad at going to yoga classes.
01:33:24.000 I actually don't, like...
01:33:25.000 I go to the climbing gym, but I don't like going to any other type of gym.
01:33:28.000 I don't know why.
01:33:29.000 Really?
01:33:29.000 I just like to do it alone.
01:33:30.000 Yeah, I'm, like, very much into doing it alone.
01:33:32.000 Like, I don't like to go lift weights in front of people.
01:33:35.000 I'm just, like, a little bit, I guess, shy about stuff like that.
01:33:39.000 So I just do it in my home.
01:33:41.000 I have, like, weights and I have...
01:33:42.000 I do yoga by myself in front of the screen.
01:33:46.000 But I also don't like going to classes because they're just too long and I don't think I have the attention span sometimes for a full class.
01:33:54.000 So in order to get myself to do it, I'll log into this website and I'll be like, I'm going to do 15 minutes of hip stretches and I'll just do that.
01:34:02.000 And that's how I get myself to do it because otherwise I just, I'm just not good at sticking with it.
01:34:06.000 Yeah.
01:34:07.000 It's not so crazy for a person who went all the way up a mountain in a day.
01:34:10.000 Well, I can stick with certain things.
01:34:12.000 Well, you seem very self-motivated, obviously, if you're doing all your training yourself and making your routines yourself.
01:34:18.000 So is that like a thing where you don't want other people motivating you or other people like guiding the exercise?
01:34:25.000 Because then you're not relying on intuition.
01:34:27.000 You're relying on someone to tell you what to do.
01:34:31.000 No, I actually love training with other people and climbing with other people, especially other women.
01:34:37.000 It just so happens that they don't live in the same hometown as me.
01:34:42.000 But there's a difference between training with other people and being led in a class.
01:34:46.000 Totally.
01:34:46.000 Yeah.
01:34:48.000 But you're weightlifting when you do it, you just decide.
01:34:51.000 I mean, I don't weightlift that much.
01:34:52.000 I do, like, opposition stuff.
01:34:54.000 What's that?
01:34:54.000 You know, like, as a climber, you're, like, constantly pulling all the time.
01:34:58.000 And so I'll do, like, light weightlifting for, like, my shoulders to, like, opposition stuff.
01:35:04.000 I don't actually weightlift that much.
01:35:07.000 What does that mean, though?
01:35:08.000 Like, you know, like I lift up a dumbbell and just, like, lift them up like this.
01:35:12.000 I's, Y's, and T's.
01:35:13.000 Oh, yeah, I do those.
01:35:14.000 Yeah.
01:35:15.000 Okay.
01:35:15.000 I do I's, Y's, and T's.
01:35:16.000 And I do them on the TRX, too.
01:35:17.000 Would I's, Y's, and T's explain to people what you mean?
01:35:20.000 It's when you basically make an I, a Y, or a T with your arms.
01:35:24.000 Yeah, so straight up.
01:35:25.000 Straight up.
01:35:26.000 And then the Y, and then the T. And it's supposed to help with, like...
01:35:32.000 Strengthen your shoulders and the little stabilizer muscles.
01:35:35.000 Because I just get nagging.
01:35:37.000 My shoulder constantly feels like it's on the verge of getting injured, and it never has.
01:35:41.000 Well, it's kind of amazing.
01:35:42.000 You think about what you're doing.
01:35:44.000 It's so much shoulder.
01:35:45.000 You're always putting them in really compromising positions.
01:35:48.000 A common injury for climbers is a shoulder injury.
01:35:54.000 What does a climber do to strengthen their shoulders?
01:35:58.000 Is there a lot of band work?
01:35:59.000 Band work.
01:35:59.000 I was just going to say.
01:36:00.000 So I travel with...
01:36:01.000 In my climbing pack, before I climb, I pull out the band and do a bunch of band exercises.
01:36:08.000 Have you ever seen...
01:36:09.000 There's these bands that are called...
01:36:13.000 It's crossover symmetry.
01:36:15.000 That's what it's called.
01:36:16.000 And it comes with a workout, a chart that shows all the different various shoulder workouts.
01:36:25.000 But you do them so if it's on a door or a wall, you would put one on one side of the doorway and one on the other side so they cross this way.
01:36:36.000 And so you do your I's, Y's, and T's with that.
01:36:39.000 I do these where I pull back and then lift up.
01:36:43.000 There's all these, but it's really cool because it has a chart that comes with it that shows all the various exercises and what it targets.
01:36:51.000 And if you just make your way down, it's specifically designed to strengthen shoulders.
01:36:57.000 That sounds cool.
01:36:59.000 There it is right there.
01:37:00.000 I bought it from Rogue.
01:37:03.000 But it's really cool, too, because it has a bunch of different tension bands.
01:37:09.000 I mostly use a 25-pound one, but they go up high, like 40, 50, and they're ridiculously stiff to move.
01:37:20.000 But if you can force yourself, that's how I have it set up.
01:37:24.000 I have it set up on a Sorenx rack.
01:37:28.000 But if you can force yourself to go through those routines that you'll see on the chart, just make your way down the whole...
01:37:36.000 It's a phenomenal shoulder workout.
01:37:37.000 That's pretty cool, yeah.
01:37:39.000 Yeah.
01:37:39.000 And I guess that's the hook for a doorway.
01:37:42.000 Yeah, so you can travel with it.
01:37:43.000 Yeah.
01:37:44.000 It's really dope.
01:37:45.000 I love it.
01:37:46.000 And it's simple.
01:37:48.000 They have it all set up, so you just follow...
01:37:51.000 These routines and it shows you what part of your back and shoulders that it's targeting.
01:37:55.000 And I've noticed a pretty significant alleviation of shoulder instability and weakness from it.
01:38:03.000 Yeah, that's what I need.
01:38:05.000 Yeah, because I've got to imagine like that would, when I was asking you what it's like being 30 day shoulder fix.
01:38:10.000 There you go.
01:38:11.000 What I was asking about being a professional athlete, I mean, obviously, I know a lot of professional athletes from working in the UFC, but the instability of...
01:38:22.000 It's not instability, but the...
01:38:28.000 Uncertainty of making a living with your own tissue and bone.
01:38:32.000 I mean, this is your career is reliant upon you not being injured in a sport that's incredibly injury prone, right?
01:38:42.000 Yeah, I think it is.
01:38:44.000 And I think as I get older, like...
01:38:46.000 I'm going to have to be a lot smarter about how I train.
01:38:49.000 And there is a lot of uncertainty.
01:38:53.000 Like, I remember when I was younger, in my head, that's why I was going to go be a lawyer, you know?
01:38:59.000 And then also, I was like, oh, well, once I decide to have a kid, then I'll just be...
01:39:04.000 I might just be done, you know?
01:39:06.000 But I think that...
01:39:08.000 The way that the job of a professional athlete has sort of morphed into so much more than just performing at your sport, if that makes sense.
01:39:18.000 If you're really actively engaged in social media, and if you're a good storyteller, and if you're a good speaker, there's a lot of other avenues you can take.
01:39:29.000 For instance, if you do get injured, it's also temporary, right?
01:39:35.000 And then with climbing, it doesn't just stop at the Olympics, for example.
01:39:41.000 I can do what I'm doing now.
01:39:43.000 I can go climb big mountains.
01:39:44.000 There's a lot of other ways to be a climber.
01:39:49.000 And so I think it elongates that career in some way, in addition to the fact that we can essentially become our own brand.
01:39:58.000 That makes sense, right?
01:40:00.000 So you can do all kinds of things with that, right?
01:40:04.000 Do you have any aspirations to expand your brand?
01:40:07.000 I hate that term.
01:40:08.000 I know.
01:40:08.000 It's like kind of...
01:40:09.000 I love what you've done with your brand.
01:40:10.000 Yeah.
01:40:10.000 It's like such an LA thing to say.
01:40:12.000 It is.
01:40:12.000 You're right.
01:40:12.000 It totally is.
01:40:14.000 But I don't know how else to say it.
01:40:15.000 No, it's the best way to say it.
01:40:16.000 I just have like a glorified marketing job is what I have.
01:40:20.000 Well, in a way.
01:40:20.000 That's what I do.
01:40:21.000 But it's also...
01:40:24.000 Sort of, yeah, but you've earned that position.
01:40:27.000 It's not marketing.
01:40:29.000 It's like you've done things that are pretty extraordinary.
01:40:33.000 It's not as simple as just a glorified marketing job.
01:40:36.000 It's true.
01:40:37.000 But I guess that's the imposter syndrome speaking.
01:40:43.000 I have aspirations to tell my story, I think, in an authentic way that people are inspired by and that people can relate to.
01:40:53.000 So are you thinking about writing a book or a documentary?
01:40:57.000 I mean, I'd love to write a book someday.
01:40:58.000 There is going to be a movie coming out about my whole process on El Cap and sort of like my journey as a climber, I guess, in the spring.
01:41:07.000 Who's putting that together?
01:41:08.000 My friend John Glassberg, who owns a company called Louder Than Eleven.
01:41:12.000 He's the one who's been with me the whole time.
01:41:15.000 He's been filming me ever since I started climbing in Yosemite.
01:41:18.000 And he was there the day that I did this.
01:41:22.000 And he was also the day you fell and got a concussion?
01:41:24.000 Uh-huh.
01:41:25.000 Oh, so you have all that?
01:41:25.000 He has all of it.
01:41:26.000 Oh, wow.
01:41:27.000 Yeah, he's got everything from the beginning.
01:41:30.000 God, that's an editing job, huh?
01:41:32.000 Yeah, we actually...
01:41:32.000 Adrian and I, he came to our house a few weeks ago and showed us just the storyline.
01:41:38.000 And it's just four hours of my life leading up to that moment.
01:41:42.000 So they're definitely...
01:41:43.000 Is that weird to you to see?
01:41:45.000 Yeah, it was pretty weird.
01:41:46.000 Because he got all this footage.
01:41:47.000 He went to my parents' house and got all this...
01:41:50.000 Old footage from my dad, you know, like from the cassette tapes and just, I don't know what they call when they like digitize it all.
01:41:59.000 And yeah, so I was watching like all this stuff from when I was a baby to like when I, my dad built a climbing wall in my garage and surprised me with it, which I completely forgot that even happened.
01:42:10.000 And he just like showed it to me and I was like, oh my gosh, this is, it was trippy for sure.
01:42:15.000 That's wild.
01:42:16.000 Yeah.
01:42:17.000 So is he going to do that and try to sell it to Netflix or something along those lines?
01:42:21.000 I mean, yeah, I think that's like an idea.
01:42:24.000 At this point, it's like his first documentary.
01:42:27.000 It's kind of like his baby at this point.
01:42:32.000 He's like pretty involved, pretty invested in it.
01:42:35.000 So we'll see where it goes.
01:42:36.000 You have to see Dirtbag then.
01:42:37.000 I know.
01:42:37.000 You have to watch that.
01:42:38.000 I can't believe you haven't watched it.
01:42:39.000 I know.
01:42:40.000 Now that I've seen the cover of the film, I've totally heard of it.
01:42:45.000 I know what you're talking about.
01:42:46.000 It's a sad story in a way.
01:42:48.000 In a lot of ways.
01:42:49.000 Because the guys...
01:42:50.000 The people that were around him sort of admired him at the same time pitied him.
01:42:59.000 It was like...
01:43:00.000 Because he...
01:43:02.000 You know, he would eat, like, old food and, you know, he never had any money.
01:43:06.000 Yeah.
01:43:06.000 He's always just laying around and...
01:43:09.000 It's weird.
01:43:10.000 It's a weird...
01:43:11.000 But also, again, this dedication to this one singular obsession.
01:43:16.000 Yeah.
01:43:17.000 You know, and that's kind of like a...
01:43:18.000 That's...
01:43:21.000 Kind of how the history of climbing in Yosemite began is with like the dirtbags, the people who went there and all they did was, that's all they wanted to do was climb.
01:43:29.000 And so they would just like go scrounge for food at the cafeteria and like sleep out in the forest and just go climbing and do whatever they could to climb.
01:43:37.000 That's such a weird thing.
01:43:39.000 Yeah.
01:43:39.000 For the average person that wants stability in their life and wants security and wants a 401k plan and wants a mortgage and all the things, the trappings of modern culture to see someone who's so completely rebellious that they literally want to sleep in the forest and climb mountains.
01:43:56.000 Yeah.
01:43:57.000 In a way, you know, that's what made them happy.
01:43:59.000 They, like, figured out what made them happy.
01:44:01.000 But you just got a big smile thinking about that.
01:44:03.000 Yeah.
01:44:04.000 Yeah, because that's romantic to you, right?
01:44:06.000 Yeah.
01:44:06.000 I mean, I'm thinking about it in terms of, like, how far climbing has come as well, you know?
01:44:10.000 And I think a lot of those people from back in the day, they were just, like, they saw themselves as, like, outcasts of society in a way.
01:44:18.000 Yeah.
01:44:19.000 I think just as with everything, everything changes, right?
01:44:23.000 And like with the evolution of climbing, like you now have people like me who are like making a living climbing.
01:44:28.000 And, you know, I do have a mortgage and I'm just like making it work, you know?
01:44:31.000 And in a way, I often wonder if those people like look at me and sort of like...
01:44:36.000 I feel like I've sold out or I'm not core, if that makes sense.
01:44:42.000 Oh, because you have sponsors?
01:44:43.000 Yeah, because I've made it work and I've worked the system, again, imposter syndrome, but I've worked the system to get to a point where I'm actually making a living and managing.
01:44:56.000 And it's just an interesting thought.
01:44:59.000 There's a little bit of, I don't know, I feel a little bit sensitive to it.
01:45:03.000 I'm like, oh no, am I not...
01:45:04.000 Just stay offline.
01:45:05.000 I didn't sleep in the forest enough days. 1.00
01:45:09.000 I didn't struggle eating fucking wood chips. 0.99
01:45:13.000 I get it. 0.98
01:45:15.000 I would imagine, like any industry, it's filled with people who try to sort of malign and misrepresent who other people are and they get jealous and they get petty.
01:45:28.000 Yeah, I mean, I think it's mostly, like, social media.
01:45:31.000 Like, the one thing I learned through all of this the last few weeks were a little bit of a whirlwind.
01:45:36.000 Just because this whole thing went a little bit bigger than I thought it would.
01:45:40.000 So, yeah, I learned to, like, not ever log into Twitter.
01:45:48.000 Twitter's like the worst one for some reason.
01:45:51.000 Yeah, because it's all just opinions.
01:45:53.000 Yeah.
01:45:53.000 At least with Instagram, it's, you know, photographs and then people comment on the photographs.
01:45:58.000 But it just seems to be the tone of Instagram seems to be markedly more positive.
01:46:06.000 Yeah, that's what I've realized.
01:46:08.000 And that's mainly...
01:46:09.000 That's the one I use the most is Instagram.
01:46:11.000 Me too.
01:46:12.000 But I logged into Twitter for the first time in like three years or something.
01:46:16.000 And I was just like, oh no.
01:46:18.000 I gotta get out.
01:46:19.000 Yeah, you can't read it.
01:46:21.000 It's just...
01:46:22.000 There's so many people there that are just filled with hate.
01:46:25.000 Yeah, but at the same time, I mean, I guess it's a good way to get news, I suppose.
01:46:28.000 Yes, it's a good way to get news.
01:46:30.000 It's not a good way to read anything about you, though.
01:46:33.000 No.
01:46:33.000 The mentions, you gotta stay out of that.
01:46:35.000 Don't click on that one.
01:46:36.000 No.
01:46:36.000 I learned that one.
01:46:36.000 This should be a way to make that invisible.
01:46:39.000 Yeah.
01:46:39.000 Make that little thing invisible.
01:46:41.000 So you don't have to look at it.
01:46:41.000 Yeah.
01:46:42.000 It's a little like a haunted house.
01:46:45.000 Open the door. 0.96
01:46:48.000 All these crazy people that are just angry.
01:46:50.000 And there's a thing also where it's almost like having a box of rocks next to a bunch of windows.
01:46:58.000 It's like people just want to throw a rock.
01:47:00.000 Yeah. 1.00
01:47:01.000 Like, fuck Emily, that bitch. 1.00
01:47:03.000 You know, like, there's people that just are like that. 1.00
01:47:06.000 Yeah.
01:47:06.000 There's some people that, and they're at work, and they're bored, or they're angry.
01:47:09.000 Yeah, people just want to be heard, I think, in a lot of ways.
01:47:12.000 Well, yeah, there's a lot of that.
01:47:14.000 That's, I mean, it's what we all want in a way, I guess.
01:47:18.000 Yeah, sorta.
01:47:18.000 Be seen and heard.
01:47:20.000 Until you are.
01:47:21.000 Yeah, until you are, and then you're like, okay.
01:47:23.000 And then you're like, this is not what I wanted.
01:47:25.000 I'm going to go hide.
01:47:27.000 Well, that is the peril of trying to be in the public eye.
01:47:34.000 You're making an attempt at garnering an enormous and unusual amount of attention.
01:47:42.000 Yeah, for sure.
01:47:43.000 Yeah.
01:47:44.000 And it's scary, honestly.
01:47:47.000 Like, it's almost scarier than, like, doing what I did.
01:47:50.000 Or climbing, in a way.
01:47:52.000 Because it's...
01:47:53.000 I mean, I'm just...
01:47:54.000 I'm, like, a sensitive person, I think.
01:47:56.000 And so throughout all of this, I've had to just learn to be, like, well, a little bit tougher.
01:48:00.000 Yeah.
01:48:01.000 Hmm.
01:48:02.000 As long as it doesn't change you, right?
01:48:06.000 Yeah.
01:48:06.000 That's the danger, that you'd be more averse to risk, or you would be somehow or another, you would change.
01:48:16.000 You know, we were talking before the show about Hollywood.
01:48:20.000 Moving out here has made me realize how tainted the entire city is by the desire that people have to be chosen to be on things.
01:48:30.000 Right.
01:48:30.000 Mm-hmm.
01:48:55.000 The problem with any kind of interaction with people on social media is that you can kind of change how you behave so that you, like, mitigate the amount of hate you get or you mitigate the amount of jealousy or mitigate the amount of pettiness.
01:49:11.000 And you can...
01:49:12.000 It can sort of...
01:49:15.000 It can fuck up your own journey.
01:49:20.000 It's pros and cons.
01:49:22.000 Don't get me wrong.
01:49:23.000 There's definitely some pros in reading criticism because you can apply it to yourself and learn whether it's accurate and also realize, oh, this is a person that's really sad and they're trying to hurt all these other people.
01:49:36.000 So you can sort of take pity on them and it gives you a better understanding of just human psychology in general.
01:49:43.000 But it can also change the way you express yourself.
01:49:50.000 You could be more guarded.
01:49:51.000 For sure.
01:49:52.000 And that can be a problem, too, because then you're not as free.
01:49:56.000 And ultimately, we all want to be free to express ourselves.
01:50:00.000 We all want to be free to show who we really are.
01:50:03.000 And I think the more you...
01:50:06.000 You intertwine who you are with other people's ideas and other people's expectations and sort of try to be everything for every person.
01:50:16.000 You kind of water who you are down.
01:50:20.000 Yeah, I would agree with that.
01:50:22.000 I mean, I think...
01:50:23.000 Yeah, and the more people...
01:50:24.000 The more people have eyes on you, the more they're going to have their opinions about who you are or who you might be.
01:50:31.000 Well, there was also people misrepresenting what you did, too.
01:50:34.000 Exactly.
01:50:35.000 Which was...
01:50:36.000 Which was hard for me because...
01:50:37.000 Let's explain.
01:50:39.000 Go ahead.
01:50:39.000 Explain that.
01:50:40.000 So essentially, one news article...
01:50:43.000 I think it was like...
01:50:44.000 I don't know how it happened, but essentially the domino effect of someone changed the wording of what I did and said that I was the first woman to free climb El Cap in a day, which is a gross misunderstanding because the first person to free climb El Cap in a day was a woman,
01:51:00.000 and her name is Lynn Hill, and she did it in 1994. And in climbing, that is like...
01:51:05.000 One of the most historic, groundbreaking achievements in climbing's history.
01:51:11.000 Like, Lynn Hill is an absolute legend that everyone knows who she is.
01:51:14.000 And so, you know, in a way, like, I got accused of, like, erasing history by, like, claiming to be the first woman.
01:51:21.000 Do no fault of your own.
01:51:22.000 No.
01:51:23.000 You did nothing.
01:51:23.000 I didn't do anything.
01:51:25.000 But I did.
01:51:26.000 I tried really hard to correct it.
01:51:29.000 But for me, it was a little bit mortifying because I... I grew up in the same town as Lynn.
01:51:35.000 I knew her growing up and she was an absolute hero of mine.
01:51:40.000 And I knew of her achievement as like, there's not that many sporting achievements that are that groundbreaking and that pioneering that are owned by a woman.
01:51:50.000 She did this before any human thought it was possible.
01:51:54.000 And for me, coming into climbing as a 10-year-old, I recognized that immediately and saw climbing as a space for women and a space where women could really excel.
01:52:03.000 And so, you know, managing to free climb El Cap in a day, for me, was personally very important, but also I just felt so much pride because I got to kind of do something that Lynn did 26 years ago.
01:52:17.000 That's so rad.
01:52:18.000 And then all of these stories came out saying that I was the first woman, so it was just kind of me being like, oh no, I didn't do that.
01:52:25.000 I don't want it to be this way.
01:52:27.000 And thankfully, I like...
01:52:29.000 I know her and I got to call her and be like, I'm so sorry.
01:52:31.000 And she didn't really care at all, obviously.
01:52:33.000 Well, we should be really clear.
01:52:35.000 It's nothing you said.
01:52:37.000 No, I didn't say it.
01:52:37.000 It's the way the editors decided to phrase it.
01:52:40.000 Yeah.
01:52:40.000 And I think it's just like, yeah, it's just the way that media works sometimes.
01:52:45.000 Like they basically changed the heading of like that I was the first woman to free climb Golden Gate.
01:52:50.000 They just did a shitty job of researching it.
01:52:54.000 Yeah.
01:52:54.000 And so you were the first woman to free climb Golden Gate.
01:52:58.000 Oh.
01:52:59.000 In a day.
01:52:59.000 In a day, which is a really difficult path.
01:53:02.000 Yeah, it's a difficult path.
01:53:04.000 Lynn free climbed to the nose, which is a different route.
01:53:07.000 And then free climbing El Cap in a day is just, in a day, is the important part because it's an achievement that, like, I think only maybe like 25 people have done in history and only four women.
01:53:21.000 And it's something, it's like the epitome of, like, big wall free climbing.
01:53:25.000 Yeah.
01:53:25.000 So the hate that you got was unfortunate and misguided.
01:53:34.000 But people do that when someone achieves something remarkable.
01:53:39.000 And if there's any flaw in the way it's being represented, they're like, Oh, this girl, she's a racing history.
01:53:45.000 She's a fraud. 1.00
01:53:46.000 She's a this, she's a that. 0.99
01:53:47.000 But you didn't do anything.
01:53:48.000 All you did is just do what you did.
01:53:50.000 You climbed the mountains.
01:53:51.000 Yeah, and to be clear, I wasn't that bummed about it, but I was sort of like, oh, okay, this is how it goes.
01:53:56.000 I'm getting a lot of attention, and I'm going to have to deal with a little bit of negativity, because that's just how the world works, essentially.
01:54:02.000 Has that been cleared up of people kind of understanding that this wasn't you?
01:54:06.000 I think people have cleared that up, for sure.
01:54:08.000 I mean, there's definitely a little bit of like, oh, you should have been more on top of things, but...
01:54:12.000 You know, that's just people not understanding how this stuff works.
01:54:16.000 You don't even know how many articles are being written about you.
01:54:18.000 That's the problem.
01:54:19.000 There were so many articles.
01:54:20.000 Viral.
01:54:21.000 Yeah.
01:54:21.000 I put it up on my Instagram and when I did, I saw at least 10 different articles about it.
01:54:27.000 Yeah.
01:54:28.000 And I was trying to see like what was right and what was wrong.
01:54:32.000 And it's just one of those things where someone does something extraordinary and it becomes clickbait.
01:54:37.000 Yeah, exactly.
01:54:38.000 Yeah.
01:54:39.000 So that was the big lesson about social media and hate for you.
01:54:44.000 Yeah.
01:54:45.000 And I think, you know, I don't think it's really changed much.
01:54:48.000 It's definitely made me feel...
01:54:50.000 I honestly, like, I feel like a little bit of responsibility in a way.
01:54:54.000 Like, I feel like I represent climbing to a broader audience right now, especially right now.
01:54:59.000 And so, like, I want to do a good job of that and I want to present it in, like, an authentic and honest way.
01:55:05.000 Yeah.
01:55:06.000 But at the same time, I'm pretty aware that there's always going to be haters and that's just life.
01:55:11.000 That's how it goes.
01:55:12.000 Just don't engage.
01:55:15.000 Don't read the comments.
01:55:16.000 Don't read the comments and definitely don't respond to them.
01:55:19.000 Yeah.
01:55:20.000 Does North Face or any of these other companies that you work with, do they have social media coaching or anything?
01:55:29.000 Yeah.
01:55:29.000 Yeah, we do some social media coaching.
01:55:32.000 Like at those athlete summits I was referring to.
01:55:35.000 Yeah.
01:55:36.000 And, you know, now it's, but that was back in the day, like a few years ago.
01:55:40.000 Now I just feel like everyone is so accustomed to social media.
01:55:43.000 Everyone knows how to, like, how to work it.
01:55:45.000 The one thing that they're starting to get into that I'm still not quite there yet, I feel like I'm a little old for it, is TikTok.
01:55:52.000 Good.
01:55:53.000 Good for you.
01:55:54.000 My 12-year-old, you met her. 1.00
01:55:56.000 She's a TikTokin' fool. 1.00
01:55:58.000 Stay away from that. 1.00
01:55:59.000 They can't help themselves.
01:56:01.000 They're like waiting in line at Starbucks TikTokin'. 0.98
01:56:05.000 I still don't.
01:56:07.000 I can't.
01:56:07.000 It's just one too many things, I think.
01:56:09.000 You don't need it.
01:56:11.000 It's odd.
01:56:12.000 But it's interesting.
01:56:13.000 I think it's interesting when things become viral.
01:56:16.000 I'm always fascinated by When something becomes...
01:56:20.000 Like, some things are just so boring to me, yet they become viral.
01:56:22.000 Yeah.
01:56:23.000 I don't understand.
01:56:23.000 And some things are just, like, the guy on the skateboard drinking cranberry juice, singing along to Fleetwood Mac.
01:56:28.000 Like, so simple.
01:56:30.000 So simple.
01:56:31.000 But yet, resonates with people, and the guy becomes huge!
01:56:34.000 Yeah, I mean, I think that was...
01:56:35.000 I feel like that was just, like, a moment...
01:56:38.000 He was...
01:56:38.000 It was a moment in time that, like, people were really looking for something positive.
01:56:42.000 Yeah.
01:56:42.000 It was, like, so lighthearted.
01:56:44.000 People love that song.
01:56:45.000 Yeah.
01:56:46.000 It just went over really well.
01:56:47.000 Yeah.
01:56:48.000 Weird, right?
01:56:49.000 Yeah.
01:56:49.000 But that, to me, is so fascinating.
01:56:51.000 That of all the things that people are doing online all over the world, that this guy just chilling on a skateboard with a bottle of cranberry juice...
01:57:01.000 That's it.
01:57:01.000 I thought it was great.
01:57:02.000 I did too.
01:57:03.000 I was like, oh, it just made me smile.
01:57:05.000 Yeah.
01:57:05.000 You know, so you send it to your friend.
01:57:07.000 Yeah.
01:57:07.000 It makes them smile.
01:57:08.000 Yeah.
01:57:08.000 I mean, I don't know how many millions of people saw it, though.
01:57:11.000 It's crazy.
01:57:11.000 Yeah.
01:57:12.000 That's fascinating to me.
01:57:14.000 Like, what pops?
01:57:16.000 What catches people's attention?
01:57:17.000 What goes viral?
01:57:18.000 I think it's just, like, a combination of, like, where we are as a society, like, what we're kind of, like, craving, and if someone, like, provides that with or without knowing it.
01:57:28.000 Right.
01:57:28.000 Of course, because it was, like, right at the elections, and everyone was like, ah, the sky's falling!
01:57:33.000 Yeah.
01:57:33.000 And I feel like that happened a little bit with my story, too.
01:57:36.000 Like, I had climbed the day after the election, and everyone was like, that's so crazy!
01:57:40.000 You climbed the day after the election?
01:57:42.000 Like, what was that like?
01:57:43.000 And I was like, well, I just didn't have to doom scroll all day.
01:57:45.000 Like, I didn't want to look at my phone.
01:57:46.000 What are you talking about?
01:57:49.000 That's what everyone should have done.
01:57:51.000 That is the way to do it.
01:57:52.000 Yeah, everyone should have gone hiking.
01:57:53.000 Just do something.
01:57:54.000 Get out of the house.
01:57:55.000 Get out of there.
01:57:56.000 Yeah.
01:57:57.000 Do people ask your opinions on politics and do you sort of like avoid answering those questions?
01:58:01.000 Because there's no winner.
01:58:03.000 No.
01:58:05.000 You're going to piss somebody off.
01:58:07.000 Totally.
01:58:08.000 Yes.
01:58:09.000 Yes, they do.
01:58:10.000 And I do share my opinions about politics.
01:58:13.000 And I do try to do it in a very diplomatic way.
01:58:18.000 I have a political stand on things.
01:58:23.000 I care about the environment.
01:58:24.000 I care about climate change.
01:58:25.000 I'm a part of an organization called Protect Our Winters.
01:58:28.000 Yeah.
01:58:30.000 That's one of my causes that I care about.
01:58:33.000 And so I'm pretty vocal about that.
01:58:34.000 Especially because you're really into skiing.
01:58:36.000 Yeah, I love skiing.
01:58:37.000 There's no skiing if everything gets warm.
01:58:40.000 Exactly.
01:58:41.000 And that's sort of our avenue for talking to people.
01:58:43.000 If you love the outdoors, you should care about the environment.
01:58:47.000 And so people do...
01:58:51.000 But I'm also...
01:58:52.000 I'm one of those people that I really...
01:58:54.000 And Adrian and I talk about this all the time.
01:58:56.000 We try to listen to all the different sides.
01:59:00.000 And we try to have...
01:59:01.000 I think that one of our problems is being so divided.
01:59:05.000 And not being able to understand one another.
01:59:07.000 And that's the part that worries me the most.
01:59:11.000 Is the hatred that we all have for the other side.
01:59:14.000 And that us versus them type of thing.
01:59:16.000 And the inability to...
01:59:20.000 Understand each other is hard.
01:59:23.000 Or even want to understand each other.
01:59:25.000 Yeah, yeah.
01:59:26.000 Yeah, to just label each other the other side as the enemy no matter what.
01:59:29.000 And the weird thing to me is I know people personally that used to be like heavy-duty left-wing and they would argue like vehemently and passionately against the right-wing.
01:59:43.000 And then they switched over.
01:59:44.000 And then they're arguing passionately against the left. 1.00
01:59:50.000 And I'm like, you just might be a fucking complainer. 0.99
01:59:54.000 Yeah, that's fair. 0.99
01:59:55.000 There's good and bad in all people, in all ideas, and in all ideologies, and in all political bends.
02:00:05.000 But what gets me is that What you talked about, that the climate and the environment could in any way be political.
02:00:13.000 That is so bizarre to me that we would have a division, left or right, that wouldn't or would appreciate the environment. 0.98
02:00:21.000 God, isn't that part of being a fucking human living on a planet? 0.98
02:00:25.000 Don't you want the rivers to be clean? 0.99
02:00:27.000 How is that political?
02:00:29.000 How is it political to not want the oceans to be filled with plastic?
02:00:33.000 How is it political to not be concerned about the death of animals because of oil spills?
02:00:40.000 Like, what is political about that?
02:00:42.000 That seems so nuts.
02:00:44.000 That seems like something like, universally, as a human, we should say, hey, first, take care of the earth.
02:00:51.000 This is the only one we have.
02:00:53.000 This is where we live.
02:00:54.000 Let's abandon left and right and all this nonsense.
02:01:00.000 Independent, libertarian...
02:01:00.000 Stop!
02:01:01.000 Earth!
02:01:02.000 Take care of Earth!
02:01:04.000 Yeah, and I mean, I think a lot of it...
02:01:06.000 Obviously, a lot of it has to do with money.
02:01:07.000 A lot of it has to do with where we get our energy from and who's in charge there.
02:01:12.000 And I think...
02:01:14.000 I think one of the biggest things...
02:01:17.000 I think a lot of people don't appreciate the Earth, is what I'm saying.
02:01:20.000 I think a lot of people don't have the opportunity to go outside and go on a hike.
02:01:26.000 They definitely don't like you do.
02:01:26.000 And to appreciate the world in the same way that I've been able to do so, or you have.
02:01:32.000 So I think one of the important things is to...
02:01:35.000 Is to show people what, like, nature has to offer.
02:01:40.000 Like, what being outside has to offer.
02:01:42.000 Like, the outdoors.
02:01:43.000 How much it can contribute to and benefit your life.
02:01:48.000 And then, once you show people that, then they'll start to care about it.
02:01:52.000 Because if they don't get to experience it, then they don't care about it.
02:01:55.000 And I think there are a lot of people out there that are pretty...
02:01:59.000 Isolated from the outdoor experience.
02:02:02.000 You know, they live in inner cities.
02:02:04.000 They don't have access to the outdoors in the same way that we do.
02:02:06.000 They choose to just play video games in their spare time.
02:02:10.000 Whatever that may be.
02:02:11.000 I think, and that's one of my, like, goals in climbing, I guess, is to make it more accessible to people.
02:02:18.000 Let them experience it.
02:02:20.000 Experience what it does.
02:02:21.000 And then they'll start to care about the places that are outdoors.
02:02:26.000 And they'll want to protect them.
02:02:28.000 That's a great desire to educate people.
02:02:32.000 I think it's titanically bizarre that we have a term that we call outdoors.
02:02:39.000 What do you mean?
02:02:40.000 It's strange that we have a thing like outdoors.
02:02:44.000 It's outdoors.
02:02:45.000 Indoors is normal. 0.96
02:02:47.000 Outdoors.
02:02:48.000 It's the earth.
02:02:50.000 It's nature.
02:02:51.000 But in our mind, we're like, oh, outdoors.
02:02:54.000 Right?
02:02:55.000 Like, what do you mean?
02:02:56.000 No, it's nature, the earth.
02:02:58.000 Like, we're so accustomed to being inside a building that we think of everything outside of buildings as outdoors.
02:03:05.000 Like, it's a weird term.
02:03:07.000 Like, indoors should be what's bizarre.
02:03:10.000 Yeah, agreed.
02:03:11.000 And outdoors is seen as, like, this really extreme...
02:03:14.000 I think we need to kind of, like...
02:03:16.000 Get away from the idea that outdoors is so extreme and it's for people who do what I do.
02:03:24.000 Going outside is something that's super normal and we should all be doing it more.
02:03:29.000 It should be.
02:03:30.000 Yeah.
02:03:30.000 You do do it a lot and it's amazing and it's great.
02:03:34.000 The expression outdoors is a weird expression.
02:03:39.000 Yeah, I agree.
02:03:40.000 It's just like, it's assuming that everyone is constantly protected by a house and a shelter.
02:03:47.000 And when you go outside of the shelter, like, oh my goodness, you're outdoors.
02:03:51.000 You're out there.
02:03:51.000 No, that is the real life.
02:03:53.000 That is the real earth.
02:03:55.000 That's the real nature.
02:03:56.000 This is where everything else lives except us.
02:03:58.000 And we're like, going outdoors.
02:04:01.000 Oh, I love the outdoors.
02:04:03.000 You mean you love nature?
02:04:05.000 Yeah.
02:04:06.000 No, the outdoors.
02:04:08.000 Nature.
02:04:08.000 You mean woods and wilderness?
02:04:10.000 That's what you mean.
02:04:11.000 Well, I like to call it outdoors.
02:04:13.000 It's a strange, right?
02:04:14.000 It's a very strange expression.
02:04:16.000 Yeah, now that you mention it, it is weird.
02:04:18.000 It's one of those strange things you just get accustomed to and you forget how bizarre it is until someone brings it up.
02:04:24.000 It's like one of those things, if you got high, you'd think about it and you're like, what?
02:04:27.000 Yeah.
02:04:27.000 What a weird expression.
02:04:28.000 It's a strange expression that's commonplace.
02:04:32.000 Yeah.
02:04:32.000 I could see that.
02:04:33.000 Yeah.
02:04:34.000 That's actually nature.
02:04:36.000 That's what everything's supposed to be living in.
02:04:38.000 Everything's supposed to be in the woods and the mountains and the wilderness and the lakes and streams and the ocean.
02:04:43.000 And we call it outdoors.
02:04:46.000 I mean, because I think a lot of people do just spend their time inside.
02:04:50.000 Yes.
02:04:50.000 You know, they go from their home to their work.
02:04:52.000 Maybe not even go to their work anymore.
02:04:54.000 They're just at home.
02:04:54.000 Yeah, well, and I think that's one of the reasons why people are so depressed.
02:04:59.000 I don't think it's a natural environment for any biological creature, and not for us.
02:05:05.000 Even though we've created these environments, and we've made them really cool, and made some nice houses, and great big TVs, and cool shit to do inside the house...
02:05:14.000 I don't think it resonates with our actual biology.
02:05:17.000 I think our bodies have evolved over millions of years to be experiencing all sorts of things that are a part of the wilderness and nature.
02:05:27.000 The sun and the wind and trees and these visual cues, seeing mountains.
02:05:34.000 There's something about...
02:05:36.000 Yeah.
02:05:41.000 Yeah.
02:05:45.000 Yeah.
02:05:59.000 Wow!
02:06:00.000 It's like a drug.
02:06:02.000 It hits you.
02:06:02.000 Because your body evolved.
02:06:04.000 Human beings evolved to experience these things.
02:06:08.000 And when you see these beautiful, gorgeous, lush environments, generally speaking, it means like habitat where animals live and where you can find food and where there's going to be fresh, clean water.
02:06:21.000 That's that lake. 0.76
02:06:22.000 And all those things, there's like these cues that are biologically embedded in our DNA. Yeah, agreed.
02:06:30.000 That's why we should care about that stuff.
02:06:31.000 Yes!
02:06:32.000 But the fact that that's political is... 0.99
02:06:34.000 We're nuts. 1.00
02:06:35.000 We're a crazy animal. 1.00
02:06:38.000 That's odd.
02:06:40.000 To go there to those places is rare.
02:06:43.000 But that's how we evolved.
02:06:45.000 We're supposed to be in those places.
02:06:47.000 I really firmly believe it's one of the reasons why people are so detached and they feel so disconnected and so unhappy. 0.96
02:06:54.000 If you're in a fucking subway and you take the subway to a Yeah. 0.91
02:07:23.000 Yeah. 0.99
02:07:24.000 But so what do you think the solution is? 1.00
02:07:27.000 Get the fuck outside! 0.99
02:07:29.000 But what if you just live in an inner city? 1.00
02:07:31.000 Get to a park.
02:07:32.000 Yeah, a park.
02:07:33.000 Exactly.
02:07:34.000 And we need more spaces like that.
02:07:36.000 Wim Hof says we should literally hug trees. 1.00
02:07:39.000 He's like, you should hug a fucking tree, man! 1.00
02:07:41.000 That's what he's saying about it. 1.00
02:07:44.000 He's like, it's good for you.
02:07:45.000 You need it. 0.95
02:07:47.000 People that go to Central Park, if you go to New York City, when you see them in Central Park, they're fucking relaxed. 0.93
02:07:54.000 They're like, oh.
02:07:55.000 You just sit there and there's trees and there's grass.
02:07:59.000 There's at least some life, some actual natural life.
02:08:04.000 Yeah.
02:08:05.000 And also, I think that's one of the things that's come out of COVID a little bit.
02:08:10.000 I think people are actually going outdoors more.
02:08:12.000 Not in LA. Not in LA. They won't even let you go to the fucking park.
02:08:15.000 They're crazy. 1.00
02:08:16.000 I mean, I've noticed the climbing areas and the trails and everything.
02:08:19.000 Where I live in Tahoe, it's so busy.
02:08:22.000 Yeah.
02:08:22.000 Because people have gotten out of the city.
02:08:24.000 And they're coming up and they're getting outside and they're going hiking.
02:08:28.000 Yeah.
02:08:28.000 Yeah.
02:08:31.000 Yeah.
02:08:46.000 Well, it's like you were saying that people do adapt, like you're saying about people sleeping on the side of cliffs.
02:08:51.000 People are very malleable.
02:08:53.000 They do adapt.
02:08:54.000 And it sucks that people are going through all this.
02:08:57.000 But the good thing about it is that there are people that are becoming more active.
02:09:02.000 There are people...
02:09:02.000 I mean, it's not everybody.
02:09:05.000 And unfortunately, some people can't do this.
02:09:07.000 But a lot of people are getting in shape.
02:09:08.000 A lot of people are...
02:09:09.000 Even though they can't go to a gym, they've...
02:09:12.000 Gone on YouTube and looked up bodyweight exercises and started a routine and lost weight and got fitter and started...
02:09:19.000 You mean there's a ton of yoga videos you can just get off YouTube.
02:09:23.000 Yeah.
02:09:23.000 And they're free and you don't need any money.
02:09:25.000 You just need a phone or an internet connection and you've got something to do.
02:09:30.000 You know, bike shops.
02:09:32.000 I know a bike shop that's near me that was saying that they literally have a hard time keeping bikes in stock now.
02:09:39.000 Yeah, that's what we're hearing in our town as well.
02:09:41.000 It's cool.
02:09:42.000 Yeah, it's really cool.
02:09:43.000 Yeah.
02:09:43.000 I think it's awesome.
02:09:44.000 Yeah, more people out there doing stuff.
02:09:46.000 Yeah.
02:09:47.000 I think it's great.
02:09:47.000 I hope that people also realize that they've been, for a lot of people, they've been dedicated themselves to something that can be taken away from them.
02:09:56.000 And to just recognize that this whole experience that we have...
02:10:02.000 On this planet is very temporary and so many people are chasing material things and chasing a position in the company and then the company goes away and then you realize like oh well this is all fragile and I thought it was permanent and it gives you an opportunity even though it sucks It does give you an opportunity to sort of readdress how you interface with life and change what's important to you and change where your priorities are and change just maybe your path forward and recognize
02:10:32.000 that, hey, this can happen again.
02:10:34.000 And maybe I should be more prepared, but also maybe I should reassess what I'm doing with my life.
02:10:40.000 Yeah, what's important to you, where your priorities are.
02:10:43.000 Yeah.
02:10:44.000 Do you anticipate doing this until you're like the dirtbag guy?
02:10:49.000 Yeah.
02:10:50.000 Until you can't climb anymore?
02:10:51.000 Yeah, I'm going to climb forever, I think.
02:10:53.000 I'm going to climb forever.
02:10:54.000 I'm going to ski forever.
02:10:55.000 I'm going to...
02:10:56.000 Yeah, for sure.
02:10:58.000 Beautiful.
02:10:59.000 I love it. 1.00
02:11:00.000 Listen, keep kicking ass. 1.00
02:11:01.000 Thank you. 0.99
02:11:02.000 Thank you very much for being here.
02:11:03.000 Thanks.
02:11:03.000 And let everybody know what your social media is so they can say nice things.
02:11:08.000 Okay.
02:11:10.000 Do I just say it right now?
02:11:11.000 Yeah, yeah.
02:11:12.000 Just tell everybody.
02:11:13.000 I am Emily A. Harrington.
02:11:15.000 At Emily A. Harrington.
02:11:16.000 And that's on Instagram.
02:11:18.000 It's on Instagram, yeah.
02:11:20.000 There you are.
02:11:20.000 But if you just searched it, you'd find it on all the other ones, too.
02:11:24.000 Okay.
02:11:25.000 Well, thank you, Emily.
02:11:26.000 Thanks so much.
02:11:26.000 I really enjoyed talking to you.
02:11:27.000 It was a lot of fun.
02:11:27.000 Thanks.
02:11:28.000 Bye, everybody.
02:11:29.000 Bye, everybody.